piston Posted April 25, 2007 Author Share Posted April 25, 2007 thanks wheel man, all i needed was the ok that it was for sure the L terminal and f terminal can hang loose unhooked. i should be doing this tonight and see what the result is, and hopefully not another alternator. thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Piston, About your alternator, I've had simialr issues with alternators. I've been thru about 15 or 20. Yes really that many. About 2 a year. A couple of things, I keep a spare with me when I'm at the track and the rebuilt stuff from autozone, advanced auto, napa, etc is crap. The best longest lasting one I've had was a genuine GM new unit. A close second was the couple I had rebuilt locally. Buy 2 of the cheapest "lifetime" units and hang on to the reciepts. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 Piston, Be sure to read the page I linked to, it has tons of good info about these newer alternators. They are very different from the older ones we all grew up with that required 2 wires. These are capable of providing load signals to the PCM and can be controlled by the end user if the circuits are set up correctly. But if you get one wired wrong theres a good potential you'll fry it. Thats why lots us older guys say these new ones are trash, we just don't know how they work. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 I read on here from one of our old members that if you dont wire your alternator up to the F terminal that you will have short lifespans with your alternators? I wish I could remember the link or members name.... Guy EDIT... Ok now that I've taken a closer look at the alternator wiring for a 1995 LT1(camaro), you can see in the diagram that if you use the F terminal you don't need to use a charge light or resistor because the alternator seems to have one internal. I think that's why I haven't had any issues with no charging light. I guess you can do it either way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 ok, i got another F terminal ok! im gonna go with the L terminal to the 470ohm resister and call it a day. guy, are you sure thats true??? that means its the same as the L wire and no charge light in between right and just to ignition hot then right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azguy Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 I have my alternator wires (2) both joined and connected to a single switched power source. No codes, no problems so far. Two years and counting...... Maybe I need to rewire my alternator.... now that I look at that diagram guy put up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 ok, i got another F terminal ok! im gonna go with the L terminal to the 470ohm resister and call it a day. guy, are you sure thats true??? that means its the same as the L wire and no charge light in between right and just to ignition hot then right? That's how I see the diagram. I know for sure the F and L terminal go to the samething inside the alternator. I just know that I haven't had an issue with my alternator and thats how I have it wired... Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 you guys are the best man, but im not done yet...big big thanks to 80lt1 and wheelman...the two who has help me through this frustration. ok, after asking so many questions, i finally hooked up the L wire on the connector and solder in a 470ohm resister, hook up the check engine light left the F wire hanging, i fired it back up and man it sounds so much better and the rpm is way more steady then before. i let it idled over 2 minutes or so and tap the throttle and the rpm needle still moves second slower like before and would drop back down and stuble to a complete stop and ill have to start it up again. i think i might of damaged my IAC and TPS when i cleaned it with high strength degreaser. it still throws a check engine light also. i was just worried it wasnt going to be drivable and idle like crap forever. now it sounds so much better..ill be getting a cheapy GM code reader from work and see what it says, in the mean time, im looking forward to getting tunercat and tune it to the fullest and hopefully it runs even better. but thatll be a whole new learning experience for me so bare with me guys, cause ill be asking you... i think the whole time it had a crappy rpm climb was because the check light wasnt hooked up causing the pcm to panic and also, it reacted slow due to the alternator connector not being wired up correctly and it was sucking juice straight out of the batery and not enough power to power the engine and pcm needs. ill be hooking up ground to certain locations on the engine hearing everyone tell me lt1 loves ground connections, im gonna feed this biatch all she can eat. my MAF im for sure is a caprice maf and not a camaro,vette MAF. i can always get another one, but this will do for now. the IAC i guess is probably the same one since the camaro with oil coolers shares the same part #. i might just have to program the pcm to know its oil cooler equip so itll function with the oil cooler equip IAC lt1s. now another short question..the pcm pin that controls the fuel pump will be the fuel pump relay control red connector pin#7? or fuel enable pin#25? im sure its relay control #7 but just want to be safe. again, thanks to everyone who replied to me. now i can sleep again. hopefully!!!fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Here's a diagram of the 95 LT1 fuel pump circuit in a Camaro.... Pin 7 of the PCM is the low current power feed for the fuel pump relay(goes to pin 85 of the relay). So this will energize the fuel pump relay and switch it to on for your high current power feed to your fuel pump. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 cool, ill be doing a safety switch tonight after work. i am so tire of sitting out in front of the car and when it idles down and dies, i have to run inside the car to turn off the key, it sucks and when i put it to ignition on, to test my circuits, i have to pull the fuse so it wont pump. thanks for the info guy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopelessly Confused Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 Hey guys, I hooked up my alternator like you guys said but when ever I hook up the battery terminal on the alternator to the + on the battery the alternator starts to humm. I have no idea why this would happen and was wondering if you guys would know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 28, 2007 Author Share Posted April 28, 2007 i did mine like this and double checked it with a hand held tester, not a cheapy one, one we use at work to test customer vehicles, and conefirmed it was charging. it read 13.5 on the batery while the car was at idle and read 12.7 when off. i have mines hooked up very simple, who would of thought. the idiot light seems a little confusing, so i went with the 470ohm resistor inline of the L wire and hooked it up to ignition hot. thats pretty much it left F term hanging. anyone could of just said it like that but it took post after post to get that simple anser. the constant hot wire pretty much goes to the bat positive post, mine goes to the fuse box with a inline fusable link on constant hot. you might want to use a 10gauge wire with a 12 gauge fusable link for insurance. check your alternator on a tester at an auto parts store to see if it holds charge under load and off load. im not sure what you mean by humm...??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted April 28, 2007 Share Posted April 28, 2007 the constant hot wire pretty much goes to the bat positive post, mine goes to the fuse box with a inline fusable link on constant hot.you might want to use a 10gauge wire with a 12 gauge fusable link for insurance. You don't mean you have a 10 Gauge wire coming off the post of the alternator do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 28, 2007 Author Share Posted April 28, 2007 yeah, i mean i have a 10 gauge wire comming off the BAT post behind the alternator to constant hot with a 12g fuseable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 i got another problem, or question. i hooked up my obd1 port to the blue connector #20 and black/white wire to ground. i get no flashes or anything! the fan comes on and the ligth turns on when key is in on position. but when i have the gm code reader hooked up to it, it just stays off but the fan keeps running. no flashes. if its not blue connector pin#20, then which one is it? thers only two wire that needs to be hooked up and those are the two on the top right corner right? the tester has no pins anywhere else but one on the bottom but mathces to none of the wire i have on my obd1 port. i think that one is ABS tester. the gm code reader only has 3 pins. let me know what pin# and plug you guys are wiring your obd1 port too. the port is from a 94 camaro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Piston, I still have the FSM from a 94 Z28 from my conversion several years ago. I also have TunerCat and the wiring. Let me know if you need either of those. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Piston, I have been following this thread and I guess I am about a month or so behind you in progress on my LT1/T56 install. But I have been Bookmarking like crazy all these threads because it is the wiring and the programming that scare me the most. I have my 260Z FI harness completely removed and have removed the front harness that goes through the passenger side firewall as well. I have opened it up am trying to figure what I can delete from the harness. So far the only obvious wires I removed were the Red, Brown, and Green twisted wires that went to the old coil resistor/terminal block. I am going to get Staples to plot/print me a big poster size version of the 76 280Z color wiring diagram to see if I can figure it out. Too bad there isn't one place to go and find a list that tells you what to keep and what to cut by color combination or wire# the Lights.turn signals etc are obvious it is the other stuff I am a little intimidated by right now. If you take Tim240z's offer on the FSM and tunercat maybe I can borrow it from you when your done? Thanks, Greg 76 280Z with 95 Trans AM LT1/T56 some time this summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 ...Too bad there isn't one place to go and find a list that tells you what to keep and what to cut by color combination or wire# the Lights.turn signals etc are obvious it is the other stuff I am a little intimidated by right now.... I don't have my JTR book handy, but I recall it being really helpful on letting you know what wires you need to keep and what wires you need to get rid of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted May 5, 2007 Author Share Posted May 5, 2007 i do plan on getting tuner cat and i think it would be cool if tim lends it, but im sure thats not what he meant. im going to purchased one but if you dont need it tim, sell it to me. and yes, i do need them. keep your files in and ill take a look at it. i need the usb adapter since my laptop i have happens to be a late model. right now, my check light is working but im not sure why the gm code reader wont read anything. it just stays on and the fan stays on, but its not flashing and reading the codes. im still looking into that, still have to change my maf to a camaro one. and do a code read to see whats up with the check light, also, it idles at 1500rpm. i have new MAP, IAC, TPS and air temp sensor. it stil idles at 1500rpm with the check light. ill need to get all data or something since the code reader wont work....the code reader doesnt even use the serial data line, only aldl and ground. but it still doesnt work so to me, it doesnt make any since to hook up the serial data wire if theres no pin connected to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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