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HELP!!! New rebuild won't crank anymore


2003z

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I finally got my engine all back together and in the car and got to the point of starting it. It cranked for about 5-10 seconds then stopped. I thought it was the battery, but I've had it on a charger for over an hour and still nothing. I can see the engine move a little when the starter teeth engage the flywheel, so the starter is def. moving.

 

Is it possible for the engine to sieze with only turning that long? Is there a way to check if its siezed without pulling it and taking it apart?

 

What should I do next?

 

thanks in advance :(

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Are you sure your timing is set right? did you build the motor? If the timing is off at the cam then you may have piston hitting valve:cry2:.

 

Also did you check your main bearing clearances (2thous play if I remember right).

 

maybe your starter is locked up on the fly wheel.

 

I'm just thowing out stuff...

 

are you running FI if so could you be hydro-locked?

 

I hope this helped

 

Matt-

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Possible break internally on the clutch or tranny when you dropped it? Dumb question, it is out of gear right? Any difference w/ the clutch pushed in?

 

Did it turn over freely by hand before you installed it?

 

Did you pull the plugs to turn it over by hand?

 

Also pull the starter off and then try to turn it by hand. Maybe the starter is locked up.

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pulled the starter, the plugs and the valve cover. The cam isn't frozen, as I can move it slightly, but the #6 cylinder had some FOD in it. Looks like one of the valves (forward one, not sure if intake or exhaust) hit the tip of the spark plug, as that appears to be what was broken off looking at the plug. Definitely need to pull it and tear it apart.

 

Maybe the shop that assembled my head didn't attach a valve properly? Its an N42/P90 with a 1mm head gasket, but I should still think a valve shouldnt hit the spark plug at any time.

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That sucks. At least you found it. I had a similar problem once. I think the spring retainer came off. Mine ran but very poorly.

 

What is FOD?

sorry, aviation term for Foreign Object Damage. Any piece of trash laying around on the ramp that can get ingested into an engine and break it.
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Damn Mike, sorry to read that you are going to have to tear it all down again. I am praying that I will not suffer the same fate once I get my engine installed. While I am not doing any headwork or replacing the head gasket, I am a little concerned about the gasket (no reason, only paranoia).

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Mike - There is no way a fresh engine would "seize" after only 5-10seconds of revolution. As mentioned by Zeiss something is hitting valve to piston makes sense.

 

Let us know...keep us posted, good luck!

 

Yasin

I think it was valve to spark plug, as the plug is pretty mangled, and then part of the plug probably wedged between the piston and cylinder.

 

Next step is pull and disassemble, and look for a cheap, running engine here in Atlanta to get my by for Zdayz next month, while I redo this one again.

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What a bummer!!! Sorry for your trouble.

 

Didn't you drop your engine not to long ago? If so do you think maybe something might have broke?

 

There's no way a valve should ever come in contact with the spark plug. the valve would have to be seriously bent or the park plug would have to be bent (I don't even know if thats possible).

 

Get the head off and let us know what went wrong. Good luck we'll be root'n for ya!

 

Matt-

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just looked at it again, and the valve definitely has to be bent. I can see it right next to the spark plug hole, and it should be on the other side of the engine. After I assembled it, I turned the whole thing a few revolutions via a wrench on the crankshaft, so there shouldn't have been interference.

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headem2.jpg

pistonof7.jpg

 

I lost the exhaust valve in the #6. It cracked in half, and I'm pretty sure it was my fault.

 

When I was first putting it together, I misjudged TDC on the cam and was slightly off. (I didn't understand how that alignment mark worked up by the cam sprocket) I put in 2 center head bolts to do the timing chain and heard something pop. I took it off and inspected everything, but didn't see any damage, so I just thought it was the head settling on one of the two centering rings, but I think I cracked the valve stem, and it gave out when I tried to crank it.

 

So, it looks like I'll be ordering a new piston and an intake and exhaust valve for that cylinder. At least its not too major, other than the head rebuild again.

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Ouch. I would think you would need only to do those 2 valves at the most. Why the whole head rebuild? even the piston may be savable with a little grinding no? A few marks shouldn't hurt performance that bad.

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