cygnusx1 Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6658686358467759200 Still have work to do but all the grunt work is done. Now I need to connect some flying leads and tune, tune, tune. My goal was to attend the Limerock/Hemmings show this Sunday. I think I am too close to the wire (pun intended). I won't have enough trust in the car by Sunday to drive it four hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 It will run just fine. Looks good and it came together really nice. Skip a day of work tomorrow and get it done for Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Nice work. So the Wide band O2 just wires directly into the MS-II right? No need for a controller or anything right? That one always made me curious because they sell the wide bands in kits with the controllers, but I always thought MS could read the sensor itself, no need for the extra stuff unless you're tuning open loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Looks great! One thing though, I know you're going for a clean install but I've heard of problems with the FP regulator being too far away. I've been told that the regulator should be as close to the rail as possible and the vacuum line to it should be as short as possible. Just an FYI, maybe you won't have any problems. I'm starting to tune mine since I haven't mounted the intercooler in my 280z. Good luck! Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Nice work. So the Wide band O2 just wires directly into the MS-II right? No need for a controller or anything right? That one always made me curious because they sell the wide bands in kits with the controllers, but I always thought MS could read the sensor itself, no need for the extra stuff unless you're tuning open loop. It always needs the controller. One that DIYautotune sells has the controller inline, you just connect it to power and the MS. The ones with the box are normally so expensive since the controller is built in BUT they have datalogging capabilities. With MS you can datalog using MT, no need for the separate box. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Ok so you have to have the $200 kit with the controller, not just the sensor. Odd, I would have thought you just needed the sensor and let MS control it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 The LC1 wideband as Mario said, comes with a controller but it's pretty small and is just a black box. It has two outputs that can go to a gauge and MS. The rest of the wires are for grounds, switched power, and calibration. It also comes with adapters and software so you can use a computer to datalog and configure the LC1. With a PC, and power source, you could use it as a standalone wideand O2 sensor. Mario, at least with the syringe I used to test the regulator, the response to pressure changes seems instant. I fed pressure and vacuum through about 4 feet of vacuum hose and the fuel gauge responded like it was directly connected to the syringe. On another note. I was able to drive the fuel pressure to pin the gauge at 60psi by boosting the regulator with the syringe. It seems to work perfectly...at least in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 Ok so you have to have the $200 kit with the controller, not just the sensor. Odd, I would have thought you just needed the sensor and let MS control it. The original Megasquirt O2 sensor input was designed for a narrow band. Wideband sensors are a bit more complicated - they don't give a straight voltage or resistance output. Instead, they have something like a narrow band sensor plus an oxygen pump, which requires a controller either in the ECU or an external device like an LC-1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 That is a super clean install. I hope it starts for you. Double check everything which you probly have. make sure your rubber floor plugs don't leak. I could'nt sleep just thinking about it all. Good luck!! nice video also, I love the videos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 Thanks Phil, I thought about the water situation as well but in my entire life I have never had water in a car. I figure if Murphy's law don't get me I should be OK. The floors are tight and I think the rubber plugs are in decent shape. The only gripe I have about my install is that I will have to pull the seat to replace fuses....but in my entire life of driving cars I have yet to blow a fuse either....so I am playing the odds. Wish me luck as tomorrow night should be crank time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 just to follow up on wideband sensors: AFAIK the only thing slated that will just use the wideband sensor directly is Ultra Mega Squirt which uses the precision wideband controller from Bowling and Grippo. As stated a controlled is always needed with a wideband sensor for the heater and pump. Follow the link: http://www.megamanual.com/PWC/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 25, 2007 Author Share Posted May 25, 2007 BTW, Matt Cramer advised me to leave out the wideband sensor for the initial startup and preliminary tuning phases. This is to prevent sensor fouling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 BTW, Matt Cramer advised me to leave out the wideband sensor for the initial startup and preliminary tuning phases. This is to prevent sensor fouling. Thats excellent advise. ask me how I know. cha-ching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil280zxt Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 I'm interested in the placement of your wide band O2 sensor. I remember reading that the wide band O2 sensor should be further down the downpipe to avoid the high turbo heat. Are you using one of their ceramic insulators? I will be purchasing a wideband this summer and have an extra bung on my downpipe right about where yours is. Sure would make it easier if I could use it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Thats excellent advise. ask me how I know. cha-ching! I hear that......I bet it would never happen again. BTW, love the Z! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted May 27, 2007 Author Share Posted May 27, 2007 Not so sure about the heat issue....I am going to make a copper heatsink as advised in the LC-1 manual. Hopefully I don't exceed the heat rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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