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Finally got to track the RB


Zardilla

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Firstly a big thanks to all the members who have answered questions over the years as I have been rebuilding my car. The chance to get the car on a road course was terrific.

 

So the bad news....

 

After three lapping sessions (or about 35-40 laps) at Pacific Raceways in Kent, WA the engine decided it had enough for one day. I will say the Rb26 is a great engine, spun up very nicely and produced good power in the upper rpms exiting the turns. As it stood, I was running about 0.8 bar boost, making around 270rwhp. Not excessive, but enough to get me down the straights pretty quick (or at least what seemed quick to a newbie).

 

From the sound, which I interpret as rod knock, it appears at least one of the bearings let loose. I had lowish but steady oil pressure all day, however I understand under sustained high revs the oil tends to sit in the head. This may have contributed to the demise of the engine, but it was a stock used R32 motor that we simply plopped into my 240z and had questionable compression in the #6 cylinder. However it didn't last as long I'd hoped - oh well, time to freshen it up properly.

 

Probable plans:

Pistons (CP or JE)

Rods (stay with stock if undamaged, if not then Carillo?)

ARP rod bolts

Steel head gasket

N1 oil pump

crank collar

bigger oil pan (already had, just didnt put on yet)

oil restrictor in block!

 

Definitely a fun day and the suspension/brakes held up well. Once the engine is fixed I'll be out again.

 

Matt

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Bummer.... at least you had a little fun with it huh ?...lol

 

What is the oil pan/ pick up set up like on it? Did you have a oil pressure gauge working at the time?

 

I'd be sure to do the oil drain mod, at the back of the head, along with the oil restrictor in the block, while your freshing up the motor. Its real easy... I did it myself, and all it took was a fitting and hose.

 

Also, you may have had the common problem with the R32 oil pump drive rear its ugly head on you. Once you pull it apart, take a look at the oil pump drive flats on the crank snout, and oil pump drive gear flats.... it may very well be cracked....

 

Anyway, sorry to hear of your motors demise, but now you can make it track worthy.... take lots of pics for us, huh? ay.gif

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Joel,

 

I was running the RB20 (200zr) pan with a modified std pickup. However I have a Thagard pan and the oil pick up that Bob H's machinist made. Those will now go on the engine.

 

I was using the stock 240Z oil pressure gauge - for the last four months driving around the gauge seemed to be behaving fine though the readings were in the 30-45psi range (maybe a shade low).

 

I've read through the oil head mod thread on Freshalloy and have an inquiry into Desynz in OZ on getting this piece. Do I need both a restrictor and this return line as well?

 

I was thinking of running the N1 pump but Tyndago suggested there may be an issue with these pumps. I just would rather not shell out the cash for a Tomei or JUN pump.

 

Hopefully no crank damage!

 

Sorry no new pics, but the car looks the same as the ones I put in the gallery four years ago. I have pretty new gauges (yet to be installed) and new seats. Once I get the engine rebuilt I will post new pics.

 

Thanks

Matt

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Q - I will be following steps 2 & 3 for sure when I pull the engine apart. I also have a larger capacity pan which should help some.

 

I will certainly watching the thread on the steps you are taking on your motor.

 

All the best.

 

Matt

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YUp, Word is that if this motor doesn't sell to one of our members soon, Jamie will be parting it out on ebay and making some serious coin... That motor/tranny combo is done and ready to go into something right now... Everything that people "want" to do to their RB26s has been done to this one... It's a bargain, for sure!

 

Mike

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YUp, Word is that if this motor doesn't sell to one of our members soon, Jamie will be parting it out on ebay and making some serious coin... That motor/tranny combo is done and ready to go into something right now... Everything that people "want" to do to their RB26s has been done to this one... It's a bargain, for sure!

 

Mike

 

can someone send me info about this?

i may be interested in some parts

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Matt,

Glad you are taking it to the track.

I don't think the pan and pickup you and I have will solve the problems. I am actually in the process of fabricating a new pan setup - but am still in the planning stages.

Our pans/pickups are fantastic for someone who won't be on the track like you and I,(not referring to the 1/4 mi track).

I'll be posting detailed info when I do start that process here in a month or so. Right now I'm dealing with fueling and wiring issues. The engine should come back out in the next few weeks so I can install the oil restrictor, the rear cyl head drain, work on the oil pan, etc...

I'm still shooting to have it running by Aug so I can troubleshoot for at least a month before the Z car convention.

-Bob

Edit, to clarify:

I'm making a new pan because I feel the aluminum is too thin on my current pan and would require some extensive baffling to ensure a good supply to the pickup. The baffling is fairly straightforward, but the oil return is more complicated and addressed in the many threads about oil here and on other sites. I'm not willing to keep my current pan w/o some reinforcement to the thin aluminum.

 

 

 

Joel,

 

I was running the RB20 (200zr) pan with a modified std pickup. However I have a Thagard pan and the oil pick up that Bob H's machinist made. Those will now go on the engine.

...

Thanks

Matt

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Mikelly - lol, I already spoke with Jamie re his engine setup. I am ultimately going to need a bit less horsepower that what his set up will deliever and I want more responsive turbos (thinking GTSS or 2530) but I was definitely interested.

 

 

Bob,

 

Hmm, I will probably still proceed with the pan and pickup I have but make darn sure the baffling is very good. I will also run the Tomei restrictor and do the Desynz head return. Hopefully this will be enough to keep the engine alive for the occasional track day.

 

Your point about the thinness of the current pan is good. Jamie and I were discussing how the stock AWD pan is really a structural element for the block. I'm not sure if this becomes less important in a rear wheel configuration or not, as there is now no diff sitting under the engine.

 

I too am hoping to get my car back on the road by August. I am planning my build right now, but have already gone ahead and bought a new R33 crank ($570 from nismoparts - screaming deal) and the N1 oil/water pumps. I'm still vacilating on whether to go fully forged internals or not and which turbo set up. Poncams for sure.

 

At some point the wife will sit up and recognize the kids college fund is being drained....:wink:

 

Matt

 

 

Matt,

Glad you are taking it to the track.

I don't think the pan and pickup you and I have will solve the problems. I am actually in the process of fabricating a new pan setup - but am still in the planning stages.

Our pans/pickups are fantastic for someone who won't be on the track like you and I,(not referring to the 1/4 mi track).

I'll be posting detailed info when I do start that process here in a month or so. Right now I'm dealing with fueling and wiring issues. The engine should come back out in the next few weeks so I can install the oil restrictor, the rear cyl head drain, work on the oil pan, etc...

I'm still shooting to have it running by Aug so I can troubleshoot for at least a month before the Z car convention.

-Bob

Edit, to clarify:

I'm making a new pan because I feel the aluminum is too thin on my current pan and would require some extensive baffling to ensure a good supply to the pickup. The baffling is fairly straightforward, but the oil return is more complicated and addressed in the many threads about oil here and on other sites. I'm not willing to keep my current pan w/o some reinforcement to the thin aluminum.

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