nbesheer Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Okay so I got old hood vents from the junkyard sanded them down a bit and painted them with generic flat black paint. Then i put gloss clear coat on it and I can't really wash them, they look like crap in some places after washing it. Also I got OEM mirror housings that I sanded and painted the same way and they look like crap, I don't get it and i clearly don't know how to do this so any help would be cool. Also if I were to have someone paint it how much would that run, just 2 mirrors and 2 280zx hood vents ? EDIT this might have been posted twice my browser messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zx_sliding Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 well with painting what i would suggest since your probably using a spray can. is when you sand the item down start with a coarse (60grit) to remove the paint. then move to 220, 400, 800 with a wetsand. then spray the flat black on. after doing that use a glossy black. and then a clear coat if you want. i wouldnt use the clear coat if you plan on painting the whole car in the future. but if you just want it to look nice for a little then what i said should work. if you choose you can wetsand inbetween layers to make it look better. like after the flat-black you can wetsand with a very fine 1000grit. then spray another layer or move to the gloss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shift Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Make sure you are using the same type paint. enamel with enamel lacquer with lacquer and don't even use latex paint on auto body. The result will be cracking paint, even if it looks good now. Later down the road, it will eventually crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbesheer Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 Alright I use those tips probably not for a bit because I don't ahve all thsoe supplies now and no cash to get them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Be care full with 60 grit on plastic, if your using a d.a. anyway. I personally would use 100 grit at the finest, even by hand. I would rather sand more with 100 then sand less with 60 then have to sand again to get the 60 grit scratches out lol. Also 1k grit just for a rattle can paint job is over kill. 250-450 grit for rattle can paint is just fine. I also wouldn't clear it, gloss or sg will be just fine. clear will crack on you very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravRMK Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Yes, on plastic, I wouldn't go any more coarse that 220 grit, and don't use a DA on them, you will not get very even sanding, and probably end up with flat spots. Smooth them with the 220, or 320 grit, all by hand. Then hit it with some SEM flexible primer in a rattle can, then some SEM gloss black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 I comment the pros will tell you, a paint job is the easy part, a good paint job is all about how well you prepaired the part before painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldestzguy Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 This is what I just learned at my age. I have always cleaned everything that I was going to paint with lacquer thinner and most time had lifting, wrinkles, etc no matter how I prepped the item. At this late date, I have just learned that doing this is a great thing to do for cleaning; but, bleieve it or not, lacquer thinner leaves it's own residue. AFTER cleaning with laquer thinner, you MUST use what most paint shops call "prepaint" (many different brands) and wipe everything down with it. It is a solution that cleans off the lacquer thinner residue and anything else. You would not believe the difference. An idiot can get good jobs using this stuff and it is cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myplasticegg Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 If your flat black paint is getting scuffed when cleaning it, use some of the spray on chalkboard paint. It is a bit more expensive ($4 a can or so) but it will not scuff. I have done a few car hoods and my saturn's factory spoiler with this... always comes out great! Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickiewicked240z Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 i painted my vents that i got at the junkyard they were chalki because of the sun dried them out. but I just sanded them with some fine sandpaper and used degreaser wax remover so the paint wont get mest up. I use seymour paints. An they came out great i painted them flat black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 if you say it looks like crap in only some places it may be that your spraying more paint in some areas than others....also make sure your using a plastic rattle can paint, i made the stupid mistake of using a paint ment for metal on my drip rails and i could easily rub it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 I used krylon fusion satin black aerosol on mine. The sun is finally starting to bleach them - after about 2 years. No peeling or wrinkling issues though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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