jasper Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Worth mentioning. All your resistance tests should be done at the ECM connector, being carefull not to damage the terminals.(ECM DISCONNECTED) this will evaluate the connector to component integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingZr0 Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Temp sensore looks ok, tried to get a replacement from MSA but the bolt head twisted off the sensore and it wasn't even that tight when it happend. So reused the old one. 2 of the 6 injectors are new NAPA brnad put the others could be cleaned or replaced also since the car sopposedy sat for 2 years in a garage after the engine rebuild and the owner gave up fixing it. Fuel pump is new and fuel filter also. BTW is adding oil called a leak down test? ~Z~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingZr0 Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Worth mentioning. All your resistance tests should be done at the ECM connector, being carefull not to damage the terminals.(ECM DISCONNECTED) this will evaluate the connector to component integrity. I'll keep that in mind too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 A leak down test puts air into the cylinder, and with its guages, shows the percentage of lost pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingZr0 Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 A leak down test puts air into the cylinder, and with its guages, shows the percentage of lost pressure. Another part to add to the tool bin Well I'm scheduled to get the engine rebuilt, "again", but like to atleast know whats wrong since my race mechanic is letting me bring my own parts for the rebuild. Like to get her to sound more like a race car instead of the dying semi truck she does ~Z~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 tech9, your problem isn't too much fuel. Could be stem seals or even rings as 120 isn't that high. If you suspect the HG, which I don't think it is. They usually run rough right at startup and run smoother within a few seconds and the smoke(vapor) clears up pretty soon, unless it's really bad and then you would be loosing alot of coolant. You can also let it sit over nigh or long enough to completely cool off. Make sure there isn't pressure in the system, run it for 30- 60 seconds, turn it off and see if it built pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingZr0 Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Clean Z you got there Cliff, and good points, but does anyone know if a 240Z HG is different than a 280Z, i.e. blocking any water or oil passages? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Thanks. The turbo had a different HG. Most aftermarket ones are the same though. If you had an n/a gasket were you needed the turbo gasket, you would know the second you filled the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnitz Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 WingZR0 Your Z exhibits the makings of a compromised cylinder head....the milky oil or coolant clearly tells you of your problem..... the white plumes of Vapor exiting your tailpipe confirm it. In the ther gentleman's case, it sounds like he may have the infamous blueish smoke that is a tell-tale sign of bad valve seals, these are located just under the camshaft area....right in the line of fire of the oil spouts in the cams itself or the external rail.... Also be sure to check the TPS for proper voltage, if it is out of range, adjust it....if still out of range, clean the electrical contacts....a wet boot receptacle will short the signal out and keep your rpms below 2500rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tech9 Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 I did get the "power" problem fixed, it was a fuel problem. old tank, old lines, etc. That is fixed, still smokes. I have valve seals, going to replace when it gets warmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StreetGlide07 Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 I did get the "power" problem fixed, it was a fuel problem. old tank, old lines, etc. That is fixed, still smokes. I have valve seals, going to replace when it gets warmer. What did you do? Replace the tank and lines? Clean the tank and lines? If so what method did you use? I have a 77. Just starting to tinker with it. Thanks Man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 My truck had bad valve seals, It would only smoke after sitting for a few hours. After you started it the smoke would clear up within seconds. I say head gasket or cracked head/block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damufunman Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 tech9, I had a similar problem with my 280z. Started up fine, idled a bit, then would die. If I drove it before that there would be a plume of smoke following, and no power. Found Daeron's EFI bible post (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible) and found a bad temp sensor. changed that out with a new one, ran fine since. Check out the bible, might be able to find your problem with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.