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Long term Storage opinions


Poundz9oh9

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Hey guys, my time in the US is being cut short. As of Nov 10th, I will be in Hawaii for the next 3 years which leaves me to my question.

 

I'm going to be storing the Z for the entire time I'm there. It will be in a covered storage area, under a cover and up on jack stands (to keep mice out). What things should I do to keep the motor from turning to complete a$$ while I'm gone. Is it better to just leave it stored or have somebody go start it every once in a while (which I think does more harm than good anyway). Oh, and the car will be subjected to Michigan outside winter temps as well.

 

I've searched through some threads and the ones that I've found more or less had to do with storing engines on stands. This engine has about 3,000 mile on it already and I'm just wanting to keep it as protected as possible.

 

On a side note, I'll be storing my Cobalt as well, would the same tips apply?

 

TIA guys!!

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Bring your Z down here and I'll take care of it for you, no joke. If you pay for the storage I'll keep it maintained. Plus you know it will be in good hands.

 

I can probably get you storage cheaper down here than around FLW. PM or call me.

 

Hate to see you leaving the area.

 

David

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Well, the thing about Michigan is that it'll be free being stored at the in-laws. Although you seem like a viable option. I just don't know if the motor not being ran for three years is gonna damage it at all ya know?

 

I definately appreciate the offer David and will definately think about it!

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I pulled my '71 Z out of storage in April. It had been there without runing for 15 years. Yes, 15. Changed all the fluids, put in a new battery, added gas and it fired up and ran like new. Have since changed tires, all hoses, all brake & clutch cylinders, new spark plug wires and ignition parts. Either I was lucky or the Z is an amazing car.

Dennis

71 Z Original Owner

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I would worry only about humidity levels in the storage area and mice. I use mothballs to keep mice and insects out. Works very well. Use the authentic mothballs in the engine bay, interior, glovebox, and any other nesting spots. I think that you could just put in fresh oil, drain all the fuel, spray some oil in the cylinders and maybe the strut shafts, and you will be fine. If you take the wheels off, spray the rotors too.

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Isn't there some kind of "magical lube" on the market for storing engines. It supposed to fog the cylinders or something? I see if I can find it. Either that or I'm just crazy! LOL

 

If it was me I would find someone that I really really trust and have them drive it during the warmer months a few times just to keep everything nice and loose. And then have them put it back on jackstands off the suspension. Then change the fluids when the warmer months come around again.

 

Guy

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When I store the jet ski's and the boat for the winter, I put in fuel stablizer and fog the cyclinders with a spray designed for that. I forget the name but most auto parts stores sell it. It is supposed to stick to the cycliner walls better than oil. It must work. Ski's are 10 years old and motors have never been apart.

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I would worry only about humidity levels in the storage area and mice. I use mothballs to keep mice and insects out. Works very well. Use the authentic mothballs in the engine bay, interior, glovebox, and any other nesting spots. I think that you could just put in fresh oil, drain all the fuel, spray some oil in the cylinders and maybe the strut shafts, and you will be fine. If you take the wheels off, spray the rotors too.

 

 

In addition to the above, the other thing you can do is get a "Car Bag".

 

http://www.carbag.com

 

http://www.carvaluesplus.com/carbag_concept.htm

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My friend who is an engine builder told me about Marvel Mystery Oil. Pure it in, crank it over a couple of times to circulate and it should be good.

 

This sounds good for the cylinders; knocking the brake pads back, then sprayng the rotors (as previously mentioned) is also a good idea.

If it were my car, I'd back the rockers off to release valve spring pressure as well. May not be needed, but why stress the 'open' springs for 3 years?

 

Anyone know how to stop brake cylinder rust?

 

 

 

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Anyone know how to stop brake cylinder rust?

 

 

 

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The only thing I can think of for the brake system is to pump fresh fluid through it just before leaving; that would remove any existing moisture. (Since the fluid is hygroscopic, this isn't a true fix, but seems better than doing nothing).

 

 

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