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Hmmm, which Z28 to buy???


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Alright ya'll, i've been lurking around for a while and now I have a pretty decent question for ya. I'm getting ready to buy a donor car for my '73 V8 swap. I know I want a SBC because of the incredible ammount of upgrades available, but I am having trouble coming to a decision on what to buy. I know, I know.. research, research.. I've done it all. But, there's just so many pros/cons that I think I may need some help sorting things out.

 

So....

 

Nat Asp SBC??

- Simpler install

- cleaner look

- Gotta move the hood latch

- Simple wiring/no computers!

- Gotta buy an expensive crate engine/trans/etc... or rebuild something

 

LT1

- Less Hp/Tq than a Nat Asp when stock?

- no moving hood latch

- Reprogramable computer (OBD1 and 2)

- Wiring concerns

 

 

LS1

- More Hp/Tq than the LT1

- Computer reprograming concerns

 

I've come to the realization that I could buy an Z28 (94-96) in great shape with low mileage for a bit more (a few grand) than what a pull-out would cost. I could recoupe a decent amount of the difference by parting the thing out as long as it's in decent condition.

 

I'm looking for 300+ Hp and a 6-speed trans. With that in mind i'm looking at a later model Z28 (1997-2003). With this though i've read that reprogramming becomes an issue. However, I'd prefer to use the JCI LS1 engine mounts than the JTR Lt1 setup. It just seems to be engineered better.

 

If I go with the LT1 then i'm looking at (again from what i've read) either a 95/96 Z28 because it has an upgraded optispark that won't give out as easily as the earlier models.

 

Also, should I bother with the SS in either of these engine models?? This is pretty much a intake/body/suspension upgrade, right? Not really anything i'd be transfering over anyways?

 

Aggghh, so many things to condsider.

 

So, if you were going to buy a donar and wanted to spend.... let's say less than $8000, what would you get?

 

Thanks for your help.

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$8,000!!!!!!!!!!!! for a donor!!

 

Don't spend that kind of money on a donor and if you must near that amount LS1 out of late model Camaro's Z28 or Trans Am's is the way to go. The LSx powerplants are cheaper now. I bought my donor for $6200 32k blk 02 Z28 back in March of 06. No need to buy a Z28 SS unless it is cheap and comes with the hood, spoiler and other little stuff with ss badges on it for reselling purpose only. No difference in hp out put for your swap. Hope this helps.

 

Clive

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Definitely helps... there's a catch though! It needs to be road worthy for a year or so. My wife and I decided to save a few bucks and sell our newer model car and swap for something a bit cheaper. Sooo, I suggested that we get an older Z28 and she bit!!! After a little while and when things settle down a bit financially we'll get her a new car and I get to use the Z28 for my swap! I thought it was a great compromise and i'm really quite pleased with myself for talking her into it!!!! So, What do you think now. Sorry, just a tiny detail I forgot to mention above! Kinda changes things a bit! Thanks.

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Nah, I figured I should shoot for something older with low miles sense it'll be driven for a bit. I want a decent drivetrain to swap into my Z... with as little mileage/wear as possible. Sounds like you're leaning more towards the later model stuff? Really want the manual. Doesn't have to be six. I could live with a five. And... hah, no my wife wouldn't be caught dead in a used cop car!

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dont bother getting a donor car. you can buy the truck variation of the LS1 motors really cheap (800-2500). and you can put a carb on them also. you could easily have a LQ4 (truck 6.0 V8) and carb for under 2k. then your T56 would be another 1000-2500. you could have a carbed Gen3/4 and T56 setup in your garage for 4000 easily..

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you could have a carbed Gen3/4 and T56 setup in your garage for 4000 easily..

 

But then you have to worry about swapping the oil pan, intake, accessories/brackets, etc and the added iron weight.

 

For $3,500-$5000 (high end, unless you look into LS2s [$8k]) you can have a factory mated Aluminum LS1/T56 dropout with all of the bonus goodies (pedals, driveshaft, ECU, harness, etc).

 

Unless you plan to boost the motor until it pops or are running on a severely tight budget (the 5.3L LM7 Gen3 can be had for ~$500), I wouldn't get a iron block. You'll end up wishing you'd have held out. :)

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just keep in mind that he cast motors are only 70 lbs heavier...

 

the only accessories that you are going to retain is the alt. and its just one bracket you have to buy. an oil pan and pickup tube is 200 bucks shipped to your door. i have both an LS1 and a LQ4 sitting in my garage. and i am putting an LQ4 in my car if that tells you anything

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just keep in mind that he cast motors are only 70 lbs heavier...

 

the only accessories that you are going to retain is the alt. and its just one bracket you have to buy. an oil pan and pickup tube is 200 bucks shipped to your door. i have both an LS1 and a LQ4 sitting in my garage. and i am putting an LQ4 in my car if that tells you anything

 

I'm just one for the least hassle when swapping the motor is hassle enough. Yeah, I know the weight gap isn't huge, it's just another point of argument is all. I shoot for a low weight baseline so I get the biggest bang for my buck when I go to modify. Can't afford the big power adders, so I have to make the bolt/semi-bolt on parts do the best they can.

 

Plus, if you're dropping AC and PS I guess that shuts me up. Press on!

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I've been watching e-bay for the last few weeks. Looks like I have a few options. remeber, It has to be a runner so it can be driven for a little while until it is replaced by another car.

 

Late LT1's go for anywhere from around 4-10 grand. Early LS1's go for around the same (closer to the 10 grand mark!). I've seen lot's of modded stuff on there too that's gone for a REALLY decent price.

 

Check this one out:

 

Item number: 130142278334

 

and this one:

 

Item number: 320147751288

 

Looks like i'll just need to keep my eye's open and hope something like these pop up close to home.

 

I think i'll shoot for the early LS1. Pro's/Con's?

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just keep in mind that he cast motors are only 70 lbs heavier...

 

the only accessories that you are going to retain is the alt. and its just one bracket you have to buy. an oil pan and pickup tube is 200 bucks shipped to your door. i have both an LS1 and a LQ4 sitting in my garage. and i am putting an LQ4 in my car if that tells you anything

 

What is the one bracket you need to get the alternator to work with the truck pulley and water pump? Haven't heard of that one.

 

You are also forgetting the price of replacing either the the truck intake or the hood, cause the two won't play well together.

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What is the one bracket you need to get the alternator to work with the truck pulley and water pump? Haven't heard of that one.

 

You are also forgetting the price of replacing either the the truck intake or the hood, cause the two won't play well together.

 

 

I think it's the placement of the truck accessories that makes them less ideal for swapping. Most people suggest you get GTO or Camaro/Trans Am brackets to raise the alternator up off of the frame.

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I think it's the placement of the truck accessories that makes them less ideal for swapping. Most people suggest you get GTO or Camaro/Trans Am brackets to raise the alternator up off of the frame.

 

Those won't work with the truck water pump and crank pully. The truck, F body and vette belts all have different spacings from the block.

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Those won't work with the truck water pump and crank pully. The truck, F body and vette belts all have different spacings from the block.

 

 

The accessories will have to go along with the brackets as that is the case. There are some hidden costs if you opt for the truck motor, that's for certain.

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