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My Z needs a 7mgte


jeeper42

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  • 4 weeks later...

If you ever plan to do alot of mods you might want to just go standalone now, especially if you need a AFM and ecu. Above 12 psi on the stock ecu you will need to start piggy backing with atleast an fcd or larger AFM. If you get a stock harness make sure the insulaltion on the wires going into the connectors is still soft. I had to fix the O2, and temp sensor plugs and one knock plug on mine.

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I plan on going with a standalone...the motor was just rebuilt less than 1k ago, it's bored 20 over with new pistons, bearings, gaskets, cometic 20 over head gasket, new water pump, oil pump, timing belt and arp's. Right now I'm just trying to gather as much info about swapping the motor as I can, any help/pics would be apperciated. I should be in the fabrication stage early next summer. I'll post pic's soon.

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  • 1 month later...

I've got the entire engine management system minus the coils with two ecus........one has a superchips mod but I haven't put it on the simulator here at standard's ecu division to compare it to a stocker.......which I also have.

 

If I cannot adapt it to run 550s on a L28et with the LS400 air flow meter I will sell it.

 

I was limited in time but got most of the harness and most of the peripheral stuff other than a few relays that are spread all over the car.

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I bought two cars here. http://iaai.com/locations.aspx . Even after the yearly fee you can still get a Supra with trans, wiring, ect, cheaper than just an engine on ebay . Just watch weekly. I paid $600 ish for a low mile one with nice wheels and $300 for another.

I bought my Honda 929 stunt bike from there, and a 2001 GSXR 1000.

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  • 2 months later...
If you ever plan to do alot of mods you might want to just go standalone now, especially if you need a AFM and ecu. Above 12 psi on the stock ecu you will need to start piggy backing with atleast an fcd or larger AFM. If you get a stock harness make sure the insulaltion on the wires going into the connectors is still soft. I had to fix the O2, and temp sensor plugs and one knock plug on mine.

 

What ems are you using?

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I think I'm going to buy the first tranny I can find just for fitment purposes, once I have the tranny and shift position I can make my mounts, then just return it to the junkyard if it's an NA... heh

 

Do you know off the top of your head how far forwardback and updown from stock mounts you had to offset your brackets?

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I think I'm going to buy the first tranny I can find just for fitment purposes, once I have the tranny and shift position I can make my mounts, then just return it to the junkyard if it's an NA... heh

 

Do you know off the top of your head how far forwardback and updown from stock mounts you had to offset your brackets?

 

Get the trans you are going to use. You can only go so far back with the drive train but you need the trans to see where the shifter is. The shifter is farther forward than on the L trans. If you have the motor is too far froward you'll be using a pretty long dog leg on the shifter to get to come out the hole in the opening. The n/a trans is also smaller. If you fab up all your mounts with it and go with a R154 it might be too close to something.

 

As far as how far up. I kept the oil pan about 1/2" off the rack. I'll get some mount pics today for you.

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Awesome man, thanks!

 

Turns out the first tranny I could find is an R154... es bueno!

 

This guy wants $300 for a tranny, no shifter. 91k on the tranny, no shifter, no clutch, fly, or pp. Seems pretty high to me, I'm gonna check the junkyard first, cause this guy says he bought it from a toyota yard here in edmonds, and I think pull a part's cost for a tranny is like... $30 or something tiny like that. I do know, however, that the yard he bought this tranny from isn't a u-pull, so he probably paid a lot more.

 

It'd be really cool to start fabbing mounts this weekend.

 

Clif, what turbo are you running?

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