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Has anyone made a 240z cold air intake/air cleaner?


Astral Ace

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I made up a design, but I can't get it on the site. I can't weld, even if I could, I don't have a welder. What I'm looking for is something to get a "ram air"/ cold air intake effect on the dual SU's. If anyone knows of one or thinks they can make one, I'd gladly pay... if it's good quality.

 

Also if anyone wants to see my MS paint design, show me how to get it up here, it's a sorta big picture.

 

Thanks.

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What I'm looking for is something to get a "ram air"/ cold air intake effect on the dual SU's.

You'd be amazed how much air actually goes into your engine bay at a roll.

 

Just a pair of filters, one on each carb, isnt bad. No restriction besides the filters themselves. Not exactly the "Cold Air" but a pretty good amount of air getting in.

 

Or you can do something like the picture bjhines suggested...

But if you have a stock pair of SU's and a stock cam, that's a lot of time, money, and labor for 2-5 horsepower.

 

If you are really serious about building or buying a cold air setup, then more power to you, I'd love to see it. I've considered building one myself, but after a lot of research and thinking I decided I'd focus my time and money on other things.

 

Just my opinion

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Well, I was thinking long term, but if you could direct me to the part #'s of the filters you have. (K&N ones)

 

And by the way, I said I don't have a welder, so, I can't do anything. I always have lots of ideas running through my head, but no way to get them physically made. (crys)

 

Well, dont give up, if you really wanna do it, try.

BTW, you're in luck, i have a K&N Master catalog (perks of working at a parts store)

 

Part number for 240Z 70-72: 56-1410 (these are sold individually. Only One carb) They typically run $50-65 each. So total is around $100-130

 

Part number for 240/260Z(flattop SU) 73-74: 56-1430 (Also sold individually, you will need two)

I do not know the price on these, but I would Imagine it is very similar.

 

I have a 72, bought both 56-1410's i really like them, chrome plates, decent sized cylinder shaped filter. They look really good. The only problem I had was, they forgot the studs you need to hold them together. When I called to get the studs, they said it would take one week in the mail. It took three weeks, and they sent me the wrong studs.

 

I forgave K&N though, I really like their filters and have K&N on every car I've owned.

 

There are a number of other options on good filters, search around on some Z parts sites, you'll find a few more brands.

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That is a cool setup, for sure. I read in a performance engineering book a few years ago that you gain (on average) 7HP per 100HP the engine puts out by pulling outside air vs the high temp, under hood air. The other big benefit is to have some sort of nice, large radius airhorns. Lots of different ways to get the desired effect.

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I think it's possible to figure out how much hp you would gain per degree of heat in the air, but I don't think 7hp per 100 is a universal number, and I don't think that the Z has very hot underhood temps when the car is moving, at least not compared to other cars. The Z has such a HUGE inlet in the front and the front end is so far from sealed with holes in the core support and the huge opening under the core support and on top of it as well that there is plenty of cool air getting into the engine compartment. Now you start closing all that stuff off and ducting the airdam to the radiator, and then maybe I think the cold air box makes more sense.

 

That's my untested take on it anyway.

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the Z does have a huge opening for air to get in. The problem is nnot enough for all that air to get out. that is why the factory put the hood vents in. still a bandaid IMO.

I installed 280zxt hood vents in mine. helps a little. When I am really getting on it tho I pop my hood latch. I can really notice a differance in how the can handles at speed this way and the under hood temps are greatly reduced. Water temps seem to stay a few degrees lower too. I suppose a cowl induction hood would help this too but if I wanted a Generic Motors I would get 1.

Just my .02$

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  • 2 weeks later...

SU carbs do not work well with a "Ram Air" setup as pictured in your drawing. The pistons work by sensing the pressure differential between the inside of the carb and outside air and ducting air directly to the carb throats throws off this pressure differential. An air box as I posted above is a more effective solution for SU carbs.

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  • 3 weeks later...

what do you guys think of these sketches? i know the top one will work, but will the bottom? as far as i know it doesnt matter since this will be the stock air box and the air gets in and will basically come from the same spot in front of the radiator, just using the bottom hole in box

airboxsketch copy_thumb.jpg

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A little off topic, but here's a pic of an intake I made for my 87 vette. I used 2.5" exhaust pipe (a little heavy). Plan is to cut down the intake 2 tubes and put some K&N cone filters on then. I'll want to get more cold air into the area after that.....oh yeah, guess I need an engine too.

 

cold_air_intake_vette2.JPG

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Here's what I did on my 510 with the 2.2, but it had the Electromotive/TWM setup. I ran a hole through the core support right above the frame rail and had a K&N cone filter down there. It's not a "ram air", but cold air and would work well with SUs, I'm sure. Oh, there are big 1 1/2" billet, full radiused air horns in there, too!

 

G14.jpg

 

G19.jpg

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A little off topic, but here's a pic of an intake I made for my 87 vette. I used 2.5" exhaust pipe (a little heavy). Plan is to cut down the intake 2 tubes and put some K&N cone filters on then. I'll want to get more cold air into the area after that.....oh yeah, guess I need an engine too.

 

cold_air_intake_vette2.JPG

 

Is that the stock vette shroud over the top 1/3 the radiator?

 

I think something like that would work really well with my FMIC setup I have now, because part is blocked by the bumper support.

 

Evan

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