Guest vader3120 Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 I have heard that the RB's in general generate lots of heat and that this is something not be taken likely. Is it necessary to tear down a block and clean the water jackets, or will an engine from a reputable seller be fine to swap. A compression and leak down would obviously be done before hand to insure proper compression before turning over. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 The RB motor is no different than any other Nissan strait 6 when it comes to heat. Any one having trouble with their RB running hot, has something wrong some where IMHO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 hell even the v6's are hot boxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vader3120 Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Flushing, dont know why i didnt think of that. I thought it was a bit overkill, i dont think i have ever read of anyone doing such a thing. New water pump was def on the list of things to get, and some good radiator and fan power, you cant go wrong with a nice fan setup. I appreciate it, oh and BTW if you havent noticed, i am new here, but have been a member over at ka-t.org, altimas.net, sr20forums, zilvia forums, and yeah i think thats the major ones. I appreciate the help, and i am happy to have found yet another good forum to ask questions. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottyMIz Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 my rb 25 doesn't get any hotter than 205 even when it is hot and i am idling. while driving it runs at the 180 mark solid and even while draggin it the engine runs at the highest 190. My rb25 runs way cooler than my old l28et if that helps you at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 My RB has been on the road only about one month since completed. I noticed that it would run quite hot when sitting in traffic. I was operating with one 12 inch pusher fan between the I/C and the rad (big aluminum rad) I have changed to dual fans with a shroud and this seems to have fixed the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 Yea, I think I've read where the RB in the 240sx guys have problems with over heating. Most has to do with no room for puller fans in the engine bay, huh? BTW, I guess I meant to say in post above, that its best to flush the motor soon as possible after install/ running it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vader3120 Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 now you mentioned that they had issues with puller fans. My friend mentioned that as well. He said that puller is the way to go. Should i avoid using pusher style fans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 NPG+ Coolant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo_fb Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Otto engine efficiency ca 38% Engine power: 178kw Thats 38% so the other 62% would be 290 kw transferred to heat and strange sounds Not correct to calculate like this, but on theese long engines the water is really hot at cyl 5 and 6. Many tap their water at 2, 4 and 6 on the intake. Have a look here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107670&highlight=dreaded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 i just got my afco cross flow aluminum radiator monday. i can sit in traffic forever now weeeeeeee. FINALLY! before, sitting in traffic is aiight for a little but it'd start to creep up to 185 then i'd shut it off. that was with the stock up and down flow 280z radiator. i'm using the n1 water pump and a 16" (loud ass) autozone fan to pull. car maintains 170-178 degrees whether i'm cruising or have been sitting in rush hour for 30-45 minutes now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 i just got my afco cross flow aluminum radiator monday. i can sit in traffic forever now weeeeeeee. FINALLY! before, sitting in traffic is aiight for a little but it'd start to creep up to 185 then i'd shut it off. that was with the stock up and down flow 280z radiator. i'm using the n1 water pump and a 16" (loud ass) autozone fan to pull. car maintains 170-178 degrees whether i'm cruising or have been sitting in rush hour for 30-45 minutes now. using the N1 water pump is your first problem. try the standard RB26DETT or RB25DET pump, and you will see your temps drop in traffic. unless you're on a really long track day, or endurance race, the N1 pump is detrimental to keeping temps streetable. You'll be on the ragged edge more times on the street with an N1 pump, in comparison to the times that you'd be on the ragged edge with a standard pump on a track. N1 pumps/flows less to adjust for high-rpm driving, so it doesn't over-pump or pressurize the system too much. The water flows substantially less with the N1 at lower rpm so that at high rpm, the water is flowing what it would be at about 3000 to 4000 rpm with a standard pump. This gives the water time to pull away heat at high rpm. In traffic it's moving too slowly to do anything with N1. And if you had a standard pump at high rpm, it'd move so quickly that it wouldn't sit in the rad long enough to cool itself down. If you're streeting more than tracking, go RB26DETT. The pump is only 89 dollars USD. Try it and see how it goes for you. If it doesnt lower temps...hey, you got a backup pump now, anyways. Always a good thing. Heck, take the pump and a small tube of the red sealant that nissan supplies with you in your tool box, and in the event that the water pump cavitates or spins freely, you can at least swap it over and drive home with a 12mm socket and a screw driver if you got small hands. HINT: Towing home cost more than a water pump in most cases, and they're common to go on RB's from what I hear. Less frequent than the oil pump, but you still common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 From what I have heard on other forums, the RB20DET heats up the engine compartment more then the RB25DET does. I really don't have any cooling issues now. A single pusher fan is what I am running with stock KA radiator. I do need to get a better radiator at some point though. IMO the reason they get so hot in an S14/13 chassis is lack of space and frontal area for air to get to the radiator. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo_fb Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 I assume air filter placement have something so say on this matter to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 make sure you are running a thermostat,or at least a restrictor plate, otherwise the water cycles too quickly through the radiator to transfer enough heat out of the system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 For what its worth, my air filter is located outside the engine compartment. I also had serious interior heat issues in my S14 with the swap. Then I figured out that my damn heater core solenoid was shot. The heat had been on in my car all the time for over a year. Hell I drove in atlanta heat with the heat on! God it was terrible LOL. Dumbass story for the day. Evan I am now running a single 10" pusher and my car has not overheated with stock radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 For what its worth, my air filter is located outside the engine compartment. I also had serious interior heat issues in my S14 with the swap. Then I figured out that my damn heater core solenoid was shot. The heat had been on in my car all the time for over a year. Hell I drove in atlanta heat with the heat on! God it was terrible LOL. Dumbass story for the day. Evan I am now running a single 10" pusher and my car has not overheated with stock radiator. My friends 944 S2 is somewhat the same. Except the heat that comes in to his cabin is so dry that it actually feels like you're in a warmer climate without all the humidity and it feels REALLY nice. No sweating or muggy feeling. quite weird actually. I'd have it on all the time if mine were anything like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 hmmm @ careless. before i put this new 25 in i was running the stock water pump and it'd still creep up. so since i had to rebuild the bottom end i had got the n1. with the n1 it was still a little better. but then i got the radiator and problem solved. i honestly think the stock up and down flow radiator just doesn't flow enough. i was under the impression the n1 pump flowed more, not less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 i was under the impression the n1 pump flowed more, not less. So was I, and the blades on the inside ARE bigger too, but for some reason, I was assured that it has a lower flow. Also, on the topic of temps. Which thermostat will work in the RB30? Do I get a nismo/oem RB25 or RB26 thermostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted October 12, 2007 Share Posted October 12, 2007 Mine cooks. I really need to find some time to fit an alloy radiator... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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