Boy from Oz Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 I am presently experimenting with the installation of a GM IRS diff (see Drivetrain). I was looking at options to use the original GM length drive shafts. I am building a 250 GTO replica and could easily cope with an increased track width of up to 50mm (2") on either side to fill up the rear flared guards. I considered the fabricated transverse links but they are more about fine adjustment than increasing the track width. The thought has just crossed my mind that it might be possible to move the transverse link inner pickup points out by 50mm, thus increasing the track by 50mm each side. I could make an offset shim to ensure the rear strut mountings would sit flat, if required, but I was wondering what this arrangement would do to the camber? Anyone with any comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 It would probably add about 3+ degrees of negative camber if you retained the same top strut position. You'll have to move to top strut mount out a similar distance, which is possible if you run coil overs and do some trimming inside the wheel wells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Your drawing/photo indicates a 50mm move outboard for one side. Just to be clear, are you wishing to increase track by 50mm (25mm on each side), or by 100mm (50mm each side)? A 50mm move outboard on one side only, using an arbitrary 20" static ride height strut length, will give you almost 6º of camber change on that one side (if you make no moves at the strut tower connection point) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted October 8, 2007 Author Share Posted October 8, 2007 Thanks for the replies. ... are you wishing to increase track by 50mm (25mm on each side), or by 100mm (50mm each side)? ... It would be 100mm (50mm each side). The first photo is an over exaggeration, the offset is far less in practice. Would it be possible/practical to notch the strut assembly, low down near the bearing housing, as shown, and re-weld to reset the camber to zero or am I just beginning to chase my tail with this whole idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 This is not an absurd thought. It would increase the "kingpin?" angle enough to where a higher spring rate may be needed to provide the same effect that a weaker one would on an OEM set-up. Lastly, many strut inserts are a very close fit inside the tubes. Performing the operation shown in the diagram/photo would need to be done carefully (as low as is possible, and the ID straightened to make the ID consistent from bottom to top - unless you use a really short strut and insert a spacer at the bottom of the tube independent of the insert/tube diameter. Lastly, the tower mounting would need the same treatment if the rubber isolator couldn't handle the increased angle. One could assume a coil-over setup with long slots at the top could handle most of this camber/angle issue, but if the car is lowered any appreciable amount, then the strut will be toward the outer ends of the slots anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 If you're just trying to fill out the wheel wells, how about a different set of wheels, or some spacers? Seems like you're going about it the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 If you're just trying to fill out the wheel wells, how about a different set of wheels, or some spacers? Seems like you're going about it the hard way. Yes I am trying to fill out the wheel wells but I want to limit the wheel width to 8" to achieve the original appearance of the sixties 250 GTO - they were actually 7 1/2" on the GTOs but Daytons only make 6', 7" & 8" Borrani style wire wheels. Spacers are banned in this country. BlueovalZ - Do the inserts sit on the bottom of the strut? Also, I'm guessing the size of the 'notch' would be fairly small to generate a 50mm shift in the top of the strut. How confident are you that the top mount would need work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 You may not be able to run spacers but perhaps you could have someone like Modern Motorsports machine you a custom set of stub axles with an extra thick wheel mounting surface. Sorta like a stub axle with integrated wheel spacer. You may be money ahead to have a custom stub machined rather then designing a complete custom suspension or relocating the pick up points. Just a thought I wanted to throw out there. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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