getoffmyinternet Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 I began tallying up how much I've spent so far just for gits and shiggles. car: 2000.00 engine/trans: 3000.00 swap: 4418.11 I didn't bother to count what I've been spending on restoring the car here and there, just powertrain related stuff. Also, I still need gauges . I supposed I could've just bought a barnfind l88 vette minus engine for that much... Can't complain too much on the swap though, I was able to get a bunch of free crap and welding done. I know most of the people here claim it's like a 10k job to do the project even yourself, or 15k to have someone else do it, or 25k if you buy all the parts from mkinney . Not technically done yet though, it has to purr like a kitten first. I keep saying I'm going to clean the injectors, and I might this week. I ran out of fuel treatment, didn't do jack obviously. At first I had my hopes up, but I think I jinxed it, when last week it ran totally smooth for 3 days straight. I mentioned that sometimes it will smooth out for a minute, but never that long. I don't get how something can go away for a while like that... Also, I didn't think of the vacuum leak coming from the throttle cam, has anyone ever experienced this? Since the shaft goes through all the throttle boddies, I assume there could be a bad o-ring in there somewhere. It's probably an old crusty tb casket though, when I had the plenum off, I noticed those things are like glass, should've replaced them then while it was easier. Also, one step closer to the new diffy install. I got the diffy itself, the mustache bar and verticals for the hell of it from azcar, and the cv's are on the way. When they get here I'll find out if I can use my old stubs for now, or if I have to get the new ones with companion flanges from modernmotorsports, and thus new rims and bigger tires to boot. That's the eventual plan anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 "the cv's are on the way." GOMI, where are you getting your CVs from, what part No are they, and are they brand new? I got second hand ones from a Z31 but they are stuffed and I cant get them replaced here in Australia. regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 What do you mean stuffed? I posted a wanted ad here and got a response right away. Don't know about part numbers or anything. They are also on ebay sometimes, usually one at a time, and may or may not have a core charge, so they can be pricey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 "Stuffed, U/S, f*cked, no good, worn out ...." When they were fitted I got huge rumbling noise so had to remove them. So presume the ones you have purchased are second hand? regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 Yes, I'm crossing my fingers. On a side note, I believe I have confirmed that I will need the 280z stubs because the 240z don't match. The modern motorsports companion flange is 27 spine to match the m/t 280z and the 240z's all were 25 spline. So it looks like I'll be doing the whole shebang in one phase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 I blew through in a hurry, but you should have signal at center pin of the o2 sensor plug and power one one outside leg with ground on the other. Those are the heater wires. It would not shock me if you don't have your ground or power on the heater which screws everything up too. As for the leaky TB, its shot if thats the case. There is no cure unfortunately. If its minor enough, I say tune it out and be done with it. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 I'll have to check as I don't remember the actual order of the wires. At first it was though the ground wasn't hooked up because the wire in the loom was a dead end, but I think I fixed that. Don't you find it strange that the colors of the wires aren't the same on both sensors though? Fixing the ground didn't seem to make much of a difference, so I was hoping to just replace them, but it's hard to find them reasonably priced and I don't know of any equivalents. I hope the leak is just the gasket then, or if it's my imagination and the whole thing is solved by cleaning the injectors that would be nice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Yes, I'm crossing my fingers. On a side note, I believe I have confirmed that I will need the 280z stubs because the 240z don't match. The modern motorsports companion flange is 27 spine to match the m/t 280z and the 240z's all were 25 spline. So it looks like I'll be doing the whole shebang in one phase. My car is a 240Z as well and I'm sure all I did was get the companion flange from M/S. Mind you mine had discs on the rear so maybe the stub was replaced at the time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 More than likely. MS specifically states 240 stubs won't work, I just wasn't looking closely enough until now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 BAAALLIIIINNNGGGGG ! [bling] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucky Posted February 24, 2009 Share Posted February 24, 2009 Ballin BIGTIME!!! Gonna be one heck of a car when you're done! I'm jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 24, 2009 Author Share Posted February 24, 2009 Well it ain't over yet, and will never be. There's no such thing as done! Before I do anything to the engine I still need to take care of the interior and such. Leaks like hell too. But I got some power, I'll soon have some traction, and I have some tunes to keep me company on the road and drown out all that ruckus from the highway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Did you use the rear turbo inlet aircleaner fitting on the front turbo to route your aircleaner? regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 You mean the rubber elbow deal? No it's still in the rear. I cut it short at the part where it would accordion to fit the maf and made a 45 with flange for the filter. For the front I made a straight inlet flange to replace the angled one and ported in the recirc tube towards the bottom (pretty tight fit) later on when I realized I needed it for the mafs to work properly (also had to make a down elbow for the recirc port on the rear rubber intake. From there I used a 45 hose and aluminum couple to attach the filter. Note that the filters I used were 10 degree offset so there was a little fudge factor, perfect for adjusting it to just clear the radiator and the ic plumbing. It looks nice the way everything ended up fitting together snuggly in my opinion, but time will tell if there are rubbing issues from the engine rocking back and forth etc. Getting rid of the mafs completely would erradicate that intake plumbing dilemma though. I hope that answered your question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks good explanation. What I meant was the rear alumium right angle original fitting that you have obviously retained. I have an Apexi Djetro so have done away with the MAF's which does decomplicate it somewhat. What I am thinking of doing is using another rear fitting on the front as well (see photos below). The first photo shows the rear fitting I am talking about, the second photo, the rear fitting on the front turbo, the third photo, one possibility for routing the aircleaner, the fourth photo, one possibility for routing the rear aircleaner, and the fifth, the same from the top. If you can though, I would love to see a picture of your setup (can you take off the front aircleaner & photograph down there?) as you describe it with the BOV fed back etc. Did you feed the BOV back to both turbos rather than just one? Also what width is your IC? I had a 600 wide but it was too tight so have just bought a 450mm wide one. Also where does the small black tube off the side of the BOV go to? regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 NISSAN DATA SCAN does not work with APEXI or any other stand alone ECU as all the addresses are different. I distribute these and cant run the software on my RB20DET due to the very reason. But it will work on rechipped ECUs like JW. Contact me off this thread if you are interested. This is pretty amazing. What does the software cost? And does it come with a cable that plugs into the cars computer or similar? Can it be used with Apexi?regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 thanks Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Yes, I'm crossing my fingers. On a side note, I believe I have confirmed that I will need the 280z stubs because the 240z don't match. The modern motorsports companion flange is 27 spine to match the m/t 280z and the 240z's all were 25 spline. So it looks like I'll be doing the whole shebang in one phase. I just figured out the answer to a problem that's been plaguing me for the last year. I put in an LSD and CV joint half shafts with the 280z stub axles and Modern Motorsport adapters and everything was measured within spec, but everytime I torqued the stub axles the rotors were 12 thou out. Tried turning everything 180 degrees countless times, had the rotors and stub axles extra machined by my machinist to no avail. Admittedly I was doing a lot of other work on the car, but a year!!!!! We finally determined that the inner stub axle curved race that rests against the outer bearing curved race wasn't machined correctly at the factory, you could see a difference in coloration where the two surfaces weren't touching. Everything measured 100% out of the car but when it was torqued 220 foot lbs it was being twisted out of balance. The poor bastard that owned the original 280Z must have been really frustrated by the rear end vibration that the dealer was never able to find! Just wanted to say that it's been fun following this build and this thread. It's been two years since I pulled my 3.1 litre stroker and took the RB plunge and I'm still months away from starting the car. I'll post a thread when I'm finished, I've been taking photos throughout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Funny you should say that, as I did the same conversion and ended up removing it all as I got terrible vibrations at about 45mph. I thought the CVs must have been stuffed, but maybe there is another problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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