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Good deal on a blown 350? COZY? Jnj?


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I have a widebody that I've been wanting to do a forced-induction v8 swap on. I have an HX40 Holset turbo laying around, but decided I wanted a supercharger. I've been looking at twin-screw setups, since they're the most efficient, but it won't be cheap. At first I wanted to do an LSx swap with a Kenne Belle, but after pricing everything I'm looking at over $10K. Then I started thinking about a whipple twin screw on a GEN I sbc (built 383 most likely) and was able to build one out for about $8K. That seemed to work out the best for me, but then I came across an ad on craigslist that has this listed for $4300:

 

"Heres your chance to own a 350 sbc,motor,with a weiand 177 polished blower motor,with world heads,je Blower pistions,wisco total seal rings,"H" beam rods,Steel crank,BALANCED!,fluid damper,True roller chain,comp cam stage 2 blower cam,stan steel roller rockers,molly push rods,The works!!!it cost over $6500.00 for the bottom end!!!!The blower was $2900.00 out of JEGS!!! the motor is FRESH NEVER BEEN FIRED UP!!look at the pics. Oh yea its also STUDDED!!!! its a one piece rear main seal also.the only thing you need is a DISTRIBUTOR, car and a transmission!!! holley 750 dp is also included.any ????? Email me!! and local pick up only.I'll drive 30 min to a hour to meet ya and thats it!!! GREAT MOTOR TO GO AND PLAY!!Need to sell!!The msd distributor is NOT INCLUDED!!!!!Est horse power is 450,with 6 psi of boost! "

 

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I've always been too skeptical to buy a fresh engine that's never ran before. How do I know this is a stout, well-built engine, or something just slapped together? (If he has all of these high-dollar parts on it, I doubt it's slapped together, though) This seems like a killer deal for anyone looking at this kind of setup. I've never seen too many blower questions here on HybridZ - I searched the archives but didn't really find the answers. What kind of maintenance is required on a weiand blower such as that, and what is their average lifespan before rebuild? Lastly, I was wanting a supercharged v8 that could lay down 600rwhp - would I be able to produce enough boost out of this blower to do so, or would it put too much strain on it and kill the lifespan? I was thinking the blower would need to put out at least 15psi to reach my goal. I factor approx. 15hp per pound of boost, but I don't know how the parasitic loss affects that number. Thanks guys - I did search first! :-)

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Doesn't sound like a bad deal. I don't know anything about a 177 blower. The maintenance on a 6-71 blower is not bad. Street use you should be able to go about three years before having to freshen up. To freshen my 6-71 is about $350.00 plus shipping to California.

 

Race use is a diffirent story, but should last about a 1 yr before rebuild, but it is a unknown to what kind of abuse you put to it. Like us we used NOS and had some tuning curves and it cost us about $1300.00 to correct our mistakes and then agaib last year of about $1700.00 ( had to replace the rotors and get them restripped).

 

I am not sure if you can get 15psi out of the 177 blower? We are pushing around 14 - 18 psi and I am / was overdriven 8 to 1.

 

I hope this helps, if you have other questions you can call me at 803.600.1754.

 

John

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I was thinking about you possible engine purchase on the way to work. The bottom end sounds solid. With the pistons, hbeam rods, heads seem to be fine. If I was to purchase this setup, I would disassemble, have the block deck checked and o-ring it. Get the crank cut for another key, 180 degress from the stock one. Sell the 177 blower with matching cam / valve train on ebay. Then purchase a 6-71 blower with a roller cam setup and valve train.

 

This is if you want the boost level / HP you are talking about. A 6-71 blower kit ( satin black ) for about what the 177 blower setup will go for on ebay. Call me and let me explain to you.

 

Will have the additional cost of a crank hub, dual carbs, roller cam, roller springs for valve train, roller lifters.

 

Then you will be able to get the desired numbers you want, also will be streetable. When you go drag racing just up the jets in the carbs, and do a pulley change.

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Thanks for the response jnj. I'm thinking maybe I could sell the 177 and buy a twin-screw. I'm going to look up some more info on the 177 blower, but that doesn't sound like a bad idea to me.

 

BTW, excuse my ignorance, but how do I benefit from getting the crank cut for a key 180* from the stock one?

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Super Chevy did a write up on a 177 mated with a 355 sbc. They were able to barely tap 600hp on 10.3 psi, but they had to run 100 octane plus bump up the timing a bit. I believe this was on a 8.5:1 CR as well.

 

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/completebuilds_testing/0307sc_dm10_copy/index.html

 

All of the small cid superchargers sold by Weiand operate in a constant overdrive condition, which means that they're spinning faster than the crankshaft at all times. While all the big 6- and 8-71 blowers we're used to poking through hoods usually operate under driven.
Sounds like the 177 may require more maintenance?
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Sounds like the 177 may require more maintenance?

 

I've been running the Weiand 144 blower for five years and it requires no maintenance other than checking the oil sight window to make sure of your correct oil level in the blower.

About psi.... It came with a 6 psi pulley and after talking with Holley Tech switched to a 10 psi pulley. That is the highest range they recommended on this blower.

Cooling... This set-up is a heat generater. Alum. radiator, 2-speed Taurus temp controlled fan, and front air dam was used.

Ignition... MSD-6-BTM to control spark and timming.

Hood.... Five in. cowl to fit the damn thing in with the K&N filter.

Trans... Raced prepped TH-350 with 2200 converter.

Rear end...R-230 with MM's adj. control arms.

Frame..... Bad Dog's frame rail supports.

Fuel... Mallory Race Comp. adj. fuel reg./ electric high flow fuel pump/ return line set-up and a HOLLEY DP Supercharger carb.

Other... a whole bunch of small items......

Lastly I would not go this route without access to a Dyno shop. This set-up is not to be street tuned. You seemed to indicate a budget limit on that engine set-up, boy going this route is not for the faint at heart or the person on a tight budget.

 

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LARRY

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Lastly I would not go this route without access to a Dyno shop. This set-up is not to be street tuned. You seemed to indicate a budget limit on that engine set-up, boy going this route is not for the faint at heart or the person on a tight budget.

 

I do have a buddy that works at a dyno shop - even though it won't be free time, I can get it a discounted rate. But, I also have an LM-1 Wideband, so I'd like to utilize that as much as possible. I don't want to just throw my money away at this one - I'm trying to plan everything carefully to keep it under a certain amount. If it goes over, it shouldn't go over by much.

 

I'm also hoping that a 4spd muncie will be able to handle the torque. It's an M21, IIRC.

 

I sent this guy an e-mail, and hopefully I'll be able to check out the engine sometime this week. I'm going to give Whipple a call and see what I can do about a twin-screw setup for this one. They're supposed to be more efficient with maintaining decent engine temps as well.

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If you are going to run a 6-71 or higher, you will want to run a crank hub instead of a balancer. Crank hubs are outfitted with two keyways. The stock one and another 180 degrees.

 

John

 

Thanks for the response jnj. I'm thinking maybe I could sell the 177 and buy a twin-screw. I'm going to look up some more info on the 177 blower, but that doesn't sound like a bad idea to me.

 

BTW, excuse my ignorance, but how do I benefit from getting the crank cut for a key 180* from the stock one?

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