Guest dmin1988 Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 hey guys new member, and i'm having a small issue. first time even looking at an sr. everything went in smoothly but the car doesnt start. it cranks but doesn't start up. everything i see says make sure the fuel lines aren't crossed and make sure the CAS is right with the 1st cylinder. i asked a buddy of mine for help with my CAS but he never had to pull his out to align it. i had to replace mine due to it being chewed up at one point or another before i recieved the motor. fuel lines aren't crossed, checked. but will CAS not being aligned stop the motor from starting up? what would be the easiest way to go about TDC'ing my 1st cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z2000 Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 The CAS should only go on one way which means it cant be wrong if its on all the way. I think you need to start with the wiring. first, check your pinout and make sure all the wires that need ground have ground and the power wires have power when the key is on, and dont forget there is one wire that needs all time power to the ecu so it can store memory, it is sometimes labeled "battery" on your pinout. Once that has been checked you should turn the key on and find out if your ecu and ignition relays are clicking on. If not then you have a wiring problem and if they are clicking on then you still might have a wiring problem or it could be something else that was overlooked. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 I would also check the igniter as almost everyone on jspec engines I have bought in the past were bad. Check for spark, check for fuel, the usual stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 hey guys new member, and i'm having a small issue. first time even looking at an sr. everything went in smoothly but the car doesnt start. it cranks but doesn't start up. everything i see says make sure the fuel lines aren't crossed and make sure the CAS is right with the 1st cylinder. i asked a buddy of mine for help with my CAS but he never had to pull his out to align it. i had to replace mine due to it being chewed up at one point or another before i recieved the motor. fuel lines aren't crossed, checked. but will CAS not being aligned stop the motor from starting up? what would be the easiest way to go about TDC'ing my 1st cylinder? easiest way? probably put it in neutral, and shove something thin like a screwdriver down into the spark plug hole and turn the engine over by use of a large breaker bar/socket wrench until the screw driver doesn't raise up any higher, but starts to fall back in. not the most accurate by any means, but will get you close, and easy. Try checking for spark and fuel first. put your ear to the tank or the inline pump to see if you hear a buzzing or if the pump is vibrating. check the spark by a grounding plug or just putting each spark plug to the engine block so it arcs quickly. If you see it, it's sparking. Use a noid light kit for the injector signal, or just remove the injector rail and position it towards a bucket and see if they're spraying. if not, check the connections using a DMM with an audible beep, or a continuity tester, especially at the igniter chip and the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 I wouldn't even mess with the CAS just yet, or timing or anything like that. As stated earlier, pull out one of the coil packs shove a plug in it and have some one crank the engine. There should be an arc coming from the plug. If your fuel system is working properly you should smell some fuel in the cylinders. if all that's ok then I'd check the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dmin1988 Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 thanks guys. i'm rechecking everything today. much appreciated guys, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 I wouldn't even mess with the CAS just yet, or timing or anything like that. As stated earlier, pull out one of the coil packs shove a plug in it and have some one crank the engine. There should be an arc coming from the plug. If your fuel system is working properly you should smell some fuel in the cylinders. if all that's ok then I'd check the timing. Ummm... this should be obvious, but if you are checking for spark with the plug out of the engine, disconnect the injector for that cylinder. Good way to start a fire. Can't you just pull the plug wire off the plug and check for spark to a ground point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Ya thats the way I always do it, old school ghetto. Screw driver or equiv. into the plug and that to a ground. take the feed of the rail into a bucket to check the pump just because you can do it all from under the hood, then injectors after that. Idk some pumps are in tank and its annoying to check the pump itself so I just go into that habit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Can't you just pull the plug wire off the plug and check for spark to a ground point? SR20 engines have a long coil boot, and the terminal will not protrude enough to arc to the block, no? I guess having an extra test lead to remove it from the spark source instead of the termination point would be an alternative, that way you wouldn't have to remove or pull the plugs or any covers holding them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 SR20 engines have a long coil boot, and the terminal will not protrude enough to arc to the block, no? I guess having an extra test lead to remove it from the spark source instead of the termination point would be an alternative, that way you wouldn't have to remove or pull the plugs or any covers holding them down. Ya thats why I noted my ghetto screw driver method. Jam the scre driver up that boots butt and place it close to a ground(usually a body bolt), if it arcs you got spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Ya thats why I noted my ghetto screw driver method. Jam the scre driver up that boots butt and place it close to a ground(usually a body bolt), if it arcs you got spark. yup -exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Ya thats why I noted my ghetto screw driver method. Jam the scre driver up that boots butt and place it close to a ground(usually a body bolt), if it arcs you got spark. Oh, I thought you meant put the screwdriver down the spark plug hole to find TDC. Good call guys. Sounds like the screwdriver is the most handy tool in this case . If for that use, I'd advise against a flathead though, that might damage the mouth of the plug-wire terminal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vale2489 Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 On my last sr I just made sure the cam timing marks lined up before I stabbed the cas...fired up first try. If it is indeed timing that's off, pull the valve cover off and rotate the crank till the mark on the intake sprocket is at 10 o'clock and the exhaust is at 12 0'clock while at tdc (it takes quite a few turns but it eventually gets there) then stab the cas. That way you know nothing can be off and should fire first try, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock_Samson Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 make sure the fuel pump is turning on... if you have an electric pump i mean... make sure you have the MAF wires correct... how was the swap done? was it pieced together or transferred as a clip? which SR is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AlexS13 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 setting up the CAS timing is actually very simple. Depending on how far off the CAS is, yes it may prevent it from starting. The most precise method of doing this requires you to remove the valve cover. Once the cover is off rotate the motor by hand until you have cyl 1 at top dead center. The intake and exhaust cams should be facing away from eachother and I believe the timing mark on the block should be on the 2nd notch from the left on the crank pulley. Once your at this step, install and line up the 2 notch marks on the CAS. This is how i set up the timing on my motor and it was almost perfect when i checked it with the timing light. If your getting proper fuel and spark it should start, if not you have other issues like wiring, bad ignitor etc... Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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