TR's 260z L28 Build Thread

[MJLamberson]

The stripped thread repair kits you get at parts stores actualy work really good. Just thought I would let you know.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

I could definitely use a few of those then... thanks!

I'll see if I can find some. I'm guessing it's like a heli-coil where you have to drill out the hole and such?

[MJLamberson]

nope, well it depends on how bad it is stripped, it is basicaly a chemical you fill the hole with, and you cover the bolt in a release agent, then thread the bolt in, in five min take the bolt out and let the chemicals in the hole dry for a while, the result= new threads that can handle plenty of torque.

 

This is what I did when I stripped where the thermostat housing bolts up to the block.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

That sounds like it's worth a try. Must be like some sort of epoxy. Hopefully it works sideways. Where did you get it?

[TrumpetRhapsody]

So a little progress today:

 

Got my two problem studs replaced. The first had about 1/4" broken off, the second about 1/4" stripped. I still have one that is stripped going into the block, so I'll try that thread repair stuff on it tomorrow.

 

Also got my exhaust finshed and welded up (pics). My headers are soaking in the rust-removal bath as we speak, and I'll get them high-temp painted tomorrow night.

 

I think I'm going to put off fixing my electrical gremlins, and just not drive at night for now. I really need to start on the body work, so I'll see if I can knock out the rust areas tomorrow now that Dan is here to help. I also need to re-adjust the back carb bowl, since it's spewing gas out the vent again .

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Sunday was semi productive, felt like going in the wrong direction, but it was stuff that had to get done:

 

 

Got my headers painted, so now they're nice and sexy looking, instead of crappy and rusty.

 

 

While my roomate was working on his car, i went ahead and took apart the back float bowl to fix the leaking fill needle. I used rubbing compound and carb cleaner to clean up the needle and such, and bent the needle retainer a little to stop the it coming down and binding on the float tab. No more fuel fountain!

 

Started working on getting all the flaked paint stripped off. There's quite a bit of bondo I'm finding, joy. I also got the rear tail lights and panels pulled out. Now I need to grab those 240z tail lights from David and get them fabbed in.

 

Dropped the gas tank, which I think may be ruined. I'm going to take it to a radiator shop to see if it can be salvaged, but it might be more worth my money just to get a fuel cell. Further research is necessary.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Alright well so far this weekend I haven't done much what with mother's day and all, but I did get my gas tank cleaned and bumper shocks out.

 

We used a gas powered powerwasher to clean all the gunk out of the tank, and it seems to have worked well. I'm letting it dry now, and plan to slosh around some gas in it tomorrow to work out any remainting water. It's not perfectly clean, but it's good enough not to ruin any gas I put in the tank like it would before. Next time out I'll go ahead and paint the outside with some black rustoleum to protect it before putting it back in the car.

 

I also dissasembled all the stuff around the fuel filler to get a good look at the damage and what needs to be done to the area (pics). The arsehat PO just filled it with copious amounts of caulk, which subsequently rusted the fark out of the entire area.

 

 

Sometime this week I'm going to see if I can steal my roomate out to the ranch long enough to throw everything together enough to be able to drive the car. I'd like to attempt to move (drive) the Z up to Fayetteville so I can keep working on it in our garage, and not be limited to only working on it during the weekends (and gas... can't forget the travel cost). Not sure if that'll be possible, but we'll see.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Got bored while the folks were off fishing, so I worked on my non-functioning fuel sender...

 

Used CLR and a toothbrush, then water washed and coated in wd40 till I get it back in the tank. I now get full range from 11-87 ohms, yay!

 

I also noticed some pinholes near the tank's drain plug, which when prodded turned into actual holes. Guess I'll have to weld them up next week before I paint and put the tank back in.

[two40zjunky]

If i were in your shoes I would go wiht the Timesert for any sripped threads! I use this thing all the time at work to fix my customers mistakes. it is a great permanent repair. never heard of that liquid thread repair but I be it won't hld up to heat or fluids for very long.

 

Ronnie

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Yeah I'll probably end up using timeserts eventually.

 

 

Well I've gotten done what I wanted to so far, so tomorrow I'll probably take it for a drive and get a video, maybe even get the hood on with some extra bolts laying around!

 

I got the front cover gasket replaced on the tranny, and so far no leaks! Thank goodness for acetone to remove the 30 year old caked on gasket.

 

I got my gas tank fixed up and back in the car. The pinholes are welded up and epoxied, and the whole thing is now rustoleum painted. I now have fresh gas going to the carbs, and boy do they like it much better!

 

Not sure yet if the fuel sender works. I haven't put much gas in yet, but it's reading just barely below "E". I should probably take the sender out and run it up and down to make sure it reads.

 

 

List of things to take care of before trying to drive the car home:

- Right rear tire goes flat overnight, look into it

- Get hood and fenders fully bolted on

- Finish mounting the radiator with a bike innertube for padding

- Possibly get a 240z airbox, hate to run open carbs 1.5 hours back home

- Put back in the tail lights

- Bolt back on the fuel door & passenger seat

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Well thanks to my parents being technologically challenged, I didn't get a video. They didn't have EITHER of the camera batteries charged. Yay!

 

I got my tail lights back in (reverse lights work now, sweet!), got the radiator padded and mounted, got the fenders partially bolted on, got my passenger seat reinstalled, and patched the leaky RR tire (nail).

 

The drive went well, other than the grinding, and 5th still not working. At first I thought the grinding might be a lack of fluid in the diff (still need to check), but now I'm thinking it may be a faulty throwout bearing. I only get it when decelerating, and sometimes I feel some grindyness when the clutch is in. Other than that it was fun, got up to 5k rpm in 1st and 2nd, and man did it sound mean! Can't wait to get a video.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Ok well after today I'm thinking I may try to steal Dan Monday or Tuesday to bring the Z up to fayetteville. I'll be leaving to stay in Fort Smith 2 weeks on Wednesday, but I won't have time to work on it there, so I might as well bring it home.

 

I got the hood and fenders mostly bolted on, and actually got the air dam bolted on too. Nothing lines up very well unfortunately, seems like there will be some work needed likely due to some sort of accident at some point.

 

Got the new air box installed and changed out to some new NKG spark plugs, then took it for a drive to the nearest gas station. My fuel sender appears to be working, have 1/2 a tank now, after a cumulative 30 min drive. Had a blast getting to drive it that long! I took a vid, so you can expect that once I get back on broadband.

 

The tranny grinds decellerating in 1st-3rd, but 4th is fine. 5th is touchy, I did get it to stay in and accelerate once though, so we'll see. I think i'll have to tear it apart at some point to diagnose the problem.

 

I just need to install my new speedo pinion, and get a speedo cable, and it'll be DD worthy! Then onto little things like a suspension refresh/upgrade, fix the dash backlight and running lights, 240z bumper and tail light swap, etc.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Alright well I've gotten the car up here to Fayetteville for convenience, and have been driving it around a little, which has been great!

 

 

We just finished up troubleshooting a little bit of my wiring. If you're not up to speed, the white/green wire feeding the running lights and dash lights has a short in one or more places.

 

Tonight we worked on the running lights (front is fine, rear had/has the short), and we're not sure if we fixed it by taking out a burnt bulb, or if it never was a problem and it was the dash blowing the fuse.

 

In any case, the running lights work now, so other than not being able to see the dash (could use LED's for temp) I can drive at night now! Like our custom made license plate lamp? Yeah, I left the melty stock one in Oklahoma thinking I wouldn't need it, oops.

 

 

I've added some pics for amusement's sake, not of any technical value, but being so late/early we were a bit goofy (about 5AM right now). Strongbad009 is in from Cali visiting and helping out with his l33t navy wiring skills.

[StrongBad009]

Hey that guy looks familiar... wait a minute.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

My speedo cable came in today, so instead of replacing the whole cable and sleeve, I was able to just thread the new cable into the old sleeve. Took it for a drive and I have speedo!

 

The speed will probably be a little bit off though. I didn't feel like getting tranny fluid everywhere while I swapped to my new proper-gearing pinion. If it's off by too far I'll bite the bullet and go ahead and swap it out, if not I'll wait till I drop the tranny to work on the grinding issues and do it then.

 

Finally found the right size air filter from autozone that doesn't cost an arm and a leg too, w00t!

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Haven't had much time to work on the Z, but I have been driving it around a little, which has been nice.

 

I need to take it to a bodyshop. The passenger side front seems higher than the drivers side, and the fender and hood don't quite line up right. I think there must be some frame tweakage.

 

I got my pass door pulled apart to look at the lock and window. The window was just off off a couple of its sliders... popped them back on and it rolls like silk (old dirty silk). The lock was apparently not keyed to the key that works the ignition and drivers door (come to find out the hatch is different too). Got the pass lock re-keyed but b/c the door didn't close properly for who knows how long (fixed both latches with some dremeling now) someone tried to force it and rounded off some of the cylinder material (see pic, blue line is where the original material should continue down to).

 

I also FINALLY just broke down and bought a MOMO hub, and after it FINALLY came in I now have my steering wheel mounted. The Momo horn button binds up and sticks down for some reason, so it's out for now. I'll have the dremel take a look at a few areas, and that should clear it right up.

 

So, I need to get my hatch re-keyed, fix the pass cylinder, and put the door back together, get the frame looked at, then start restoring and upgrading!

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Just drove it to wal-mart and back... on the way back coming up to a red light I thought I'd lost my brakes... luckily I'm thinking it was just the booster. I'd never experienced manual brakes before, scared me shitless!

 

Joy, that's going to be pricey.

[Daeron]

Just drove it to wal-mart and back... on the way back coming up to a red light I thought I'd lost my brakes... luckily I'm thinking it was just the booster. I'd never experienced manual brakes before, scared me shitless!

 

Joy, that's going to be pricey.

 

Step one is to check the check valve in the vacuum line from the manifold; thats what happened to mine.

 

Manual brakes aren't HORRIBLE to live with for a little while.. but a slight adaptation of your driving style is highly recommended for safety's sake. You have enough bodywork to do already, right?

 

Test the check valve; it is fairly obvious in the middle of the vacuum line. You should be able to suck air in the direction of the manifold, and changing direction of air flow should result in a clean open/cut of the passageway. Soaking it in some parts cleaner may yield acceptable results; I haven't gotten around to repairing mine since the car got disabled shortly after my check valve went bad.

[ZoomZoom]

Cool, I've got my popcorn out waiting to see this "finished"! Have you found any S30's in junkyards in NWA? Down here in LR all I find are Z31's (no LSD r200's yet, though). Oh, yank that diamond plate off and go get an antique one... looks pretty cool and you never have to renew it! Best $14 I've ever spent.

[TrumpetRhapsody]

Thanks for the tip Daeron. Looks like that might have been the problem.

____

 

Lol thanks Zoom, though "finished" is a long, long way off.

Acceptable, drivable, presentable... that might be more on queue.

 

I've called to all the local junkyards and no beans, but I haven't actually gone shopping. I need to though. If you ever find more than one LSD hook me up!

 

I was going to get the antique plate, but it said the car had to be stock. It specifically mentioned no modifications to exhaust, suspension, wheels, etc. I didn't want to take the chance.

____

 

 

I played with the check valve last night. It seemed stuck at first, but it didn't seem like it took much to free it. I went ahead and cleaned it up with brake cleaner, and it appears to work. It feels like I have power brakes again, and the engine doesn't rev when I tap the brakes.

 

I just don't understand how a one-way valve would cause the engine to rev if it was blocked... wouldn't it just cap off the vaccum? One thing I didn't mention is that it felt like the brake pedal was "bubbling" when the power brakes were going out. Engine would rev about 400rpm, pedal felt bubbly. Weird.

 

I haven't driven it yet, so we'll see.