m1ghtymaxXx Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 This might sound a little dumb, but its my first time pulling an L-series head, or any head for that matter. I know that once i take the cam sprocket off, the chain will need to be under tension so it does not slip off the crank pulley. Looking in the haynes manual, it shows a block of wood with the chain slung over it. Before i get started I just want to make sure i have the right stuff on hand. What size wood will fit in the timing chain opening, and approximately how long would it have to be. Also will the weight of the slack on the chain be sufficient to hold it snug against the crank pulley, or will it need some added weight? I know its a dumb question, but i'm doing this alone, and bringing my own tools, so i won't have an extra set of hands if i realize i'm doing something wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intuitdriver Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 i just zip tied the chain tightly to the side of the head. Worked just fine. I don't understand why everyone has to walk the tight rope with the block of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 i just zip tied the chain tightly to the side of the head. Worked just fine. I don't understand why everyone has to walk the tight rope with the block of wood. to the side of the head or the side of the block? I'm pulling the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 28, 2008 Administrators Share Posted February 28, 2008 WHOA there fella's!!!!! Blind leading the blind here.. not good… Don't take this wrong, but a zip tie only?!?!? You are, uh, well brave!!!! The timing chain tool is shaped that way for a reason, not because it looks pretty. The block of wood is to keep the spring loaded tensioner from popping out of its holder, (the dooo-hickey next to the "front oil galley plug" in the picture below). Before attempting such an endeavor, you should be looking in your service manual or your Haynes manual! If that tensioner pops out, you will HAVE to remove the front cover to put it all back together, a major pain in the arse, especially if the motor is till in the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 :shock: Oh wow, didn't know about the chain tensioner, so its a good thing i didn't get that far today, although i did end up finding the dimensions in the Haynes manual and making it anyways. For future reference, the dimensions are as follows: 3/4" thick, 10" long, 1-3/4" wide at the top and 1" at the bottom. Although i havn't used it yet, i came up with an idea which might make it more effective. I drilled a hole in the top so that i can zip tie it to the chain to keep it from slipping no matter what. And another thing, should the "tool" fit into place with the cam sprocket still in place? cause it didn't. And that brings me to my next question which can be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=861076#post861076 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 ya, theres a steep learning curve on the timing chain tensioner if u dont keep tension on it, ive learned this the hard way, heh... and it is a PITA to take the front cover off when i didnt hav to in the first place if i had payed better attention to some advice from some friends... good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intuitdriver Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 to the side of the head or the side of the block? I'm pulling the head block sorry. was tired. brave...bah it worked awesome! =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X64v Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 And another thing, should the "tool" fit into place with the cam sprocket still in place? cause it didn't. Yes, it should. That way there's still full tension on the bottom end of the chain when you remove/re-install the sprocket, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to get it back on. And wow, the Haynes manual told you to make one 10" long? That's huge. Mine's no more than 5". I think I got the instructions for mine out of the How To Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun L-Series Engine book. I'll see if I can find the dimensions of mine when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 Yes, it should. That way there's still full tension on the bottom end of the chain when you remove/re-install the sprocket, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to get it back on. And wow, the Haynes manual told you to make one 10" long? That's huge. Mine's no more than 5". I think I got the instructions for mine out of the How To Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun L-Series Engine book. I'll see if I can find the dimensions of mine when I get home. well that would explain it. Guess i'll cut it down a few inches. I guess i should be cutting off the bottom, not the top? This chain tensioner thing has me nervous now:-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 29, 2008 Administrators Share Posted February 29, 2008 You need the length of the bottom so it goes down deep enough to hold the tensioner. The narrow portion must have some length to allow it to go deep enough, approx 4" of straight and narrow, then flair out towards the top. FWIW, Mine is only 9" long, (Blue Point). If yours looks in shape like this one below, then trim the top down so it will clear the cam gear and sit under the cam gear, between the tension and slack side of the chain itself. Hope that helps, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 You need the length of the bottom so it goes down deep enough to hold the tensioner. The narrow portion must have some length to allow it to go deep enough, approx 4" of straight and narrow, then flair out towards the top. FWIW, Mine is only 9" long, (Blue Point). If yours looks in shape like this one below, then trim the top down so it will clear the cam gear and sit under the cam gear, between the tension and slack side of the chain itself. Hope that helps, Paul I think it does. I really had no idea that the "tool" had any other purpose other than to keep tension on chain so it doesn't slip of the teeth on the lower sprocket. The one i cut is simply cut to the dimension mentioned above in straight lines. Do you think that will suffice or should i redo it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoustonZ Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 I found that keeping tension on the chain isn't good enough! Your block needs to actually extend all the way to the tensioner and wedge itself between the tensioner and chain guide. I actually use a long handled screwdriver for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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