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1981 Non-turbo Wont Start


280zx 2by2

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the car is stock

 

I have been puting in new GP sorenson injectors in my 1981 zx non-turbo EFI(of corse) got finished today and it will not start, didnt change any thing with the timing, didnt really change any thing but the injectors, i reconected all the electrical lines, vacuum hoses, and fuel lines

 

was i spose to fill the regulator or something of that nature with gas?

 

all of the electrical should be good but i havent checked for spark

 

air should be good

 

is there something about the GP sorenson injectors, i have already looked at the forums for the reputation of the injectors but didnt research that much on the install (i have the Chilton repair manual for the car) but every thing went smooth untill the final step

 

also i have no leaks and i have fuel pressure although my (new)fuel pump sounds weak but i have never had a problem with pressure

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thanks, think i may have found the problem, its in the injector harness/conector, i bought new ones to replace the old one but decided to keep the old ones because they were in better shape than i thought,

 

problem is that i dont think the old clips are working with the new injectors... thanks though-that might not be the problem and ill be right back here tomarrow afternoon

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ok i put on the new harnesses today and it still wont start,

 

i have spark

 

i have fuel pressure

 

i have air

 

im sure i have compression

 

i read last night where the temp sensor or some sensor(may have been the 02 sensor) would keep the car from cranking

 

any input or questions would be great

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Ok, what size are the injectors?

 

When I switched out my NA injectors to turbo injectors (180cc to 260cc i think) and my car didn't run until I adjusted the AFM to put in the correct amount of fuel.

 

If you have air fuel and spark in every cylinder then it's either the air/fuel ratio that's bad, or spark timing. Could theoretically be compression too, but the motor ran before so it should be fine.

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In a rough answer, it means that sometimes the afm reads to much air/to little (i believe,woldson correct me if im wrong) and your ECU cuts fuel. Fuel Cut Off is what i believe its called. I've usually heard of that happening to people who intercool and jack up boost to about 13-15 psi. Then the afm needs to be adjusted. But you have a NA so that doesn't matter.

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stock replacements, dont get me wrong, this car worked fine before except for injector leaks

 

Gollum, your swap was a much larger increase in size (stock to turbo injectors)mine was really sorry stock to correctly working stock, could this need for a tune aply to me? also, how do i do the tune?

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Dang it, I'd writted up a nice little page on how to adjust the AFM. It must have gotten lost somewhere in the midst of the chaos of work yesterday.

 

Reading through that link woldson posted would be a good idea, but don't take everything as biblical. One thing in particular he says truly concerns me.

 

"While the engine is warming up, oil is thicker; there is more resistance, so more fuel is needed"

 

Either he's trying too hard to simplify his wording, or his idea of how fuel works in an engine is completely wrong. Fuel Vapors are what burn, not the liquid itself. When an engine is cold there's less fuel vapors becuase more of the fuel is staying liquid. So until the engine starts getting warm you need a TON of fuel in order to create enough vapors to get the engine running smooth.

 

THAT is why you MUST run rich when cold, and it's also the source of the majority of the smog cars produce. Even on a road trip you'll produce more smog in that one start up in the morning than your car will all day long. It's one of the main focuses of smog reduction engineers are still chasing after.

 

 

Back to the AFM

 

The IDLE MIXTURE was mentioned, but that honestly has very little effect on overal mixture.

 

If you open it up (usually siliconed on, just cut into the seam with a knife and then pry off) you'll see the gear attatched to the spring in behind everything else, and you should see a bolt holding it in place. First, before anything, mark the gear with a sharpie. Now you'll know where to put it back to if you screw something up.

 

Loosen the bolt that holds it and then adjust. I'd start off by loosening it about 3 teeth (counter clockwise, or letting it unravel on it's own power) then tighten the bolt back up.

 

See if that does it. If not, go 3 teeth the other direction. If none of that makes any noticable difference to your situation put it back where it was, your problem is elsewhere.

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im pretty sure bout no vacuum leaks but not electrical, whats making me angry is that it could be any one of the sensors or a combination and i cant wiggle all of them at a time i just need a list of all nessisary sensors or any electrical wires or vacums that are needed for the car to start

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