240Z2NV Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Been able to weld in a main rollcage hoop and still retain the 'pockets' in the floor for OE seatbelt retractors? I know it's a bit of a convoluted dilemma. I want a rollcage [4 pt. w/ option of future add-on] yet I want to be able to utilize my OE retractors for everyday street driving. The car is not planned to be used in such a way that I would have to pass a Tech Inspection; however, I like the added safety of the partial cage. For those of you ready to tell me about the Autopower Bolt-in 4 Pt. Set-up. thanks; but, I've been there with those and this build will have something different. I already have the 'kit' from Allston's Chassisworks, I'm just trying to determine if it is even feasible. If not, I'll just 'box' over the floor 'pockets'. Was just hoping one of you skilled genius' [seriously] on the board could give me a better plan. Thanks for looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 End the legs of the main hoop on the top of the rocker. You'll either have to run a plate out horizontally or notch the legs so they run down the face of the rocker panels for a couple inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 I attached my main hoop as John described. I later added boxes underneath the tubes. I think the boxes are mostly useless in practical terms, but I heard enough people claim that the cage was unsafe that I figured I had better do it just in case I got a tech inspector who felt the same way. Pics in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102715 By the way your title is horrible. We want to know what the thread is about BEFORE opening it so that searching is easier. Your title is "Have any of you ever?" Ever what? Had sex with a badger? Tasted guano? Smelled mothballs? I'm changing it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 The safety advantage a box under a tube provides is that it allows a more normal load path into the tube (compression along the tube line). A tube that's notched or has an angle cut into the base adds a (admittedly small) bending moment into the tube in compression. I tend to build boxes under the main hoop in a 240Z and the prebuilt, weld in cages from Miatacages.com and Kirk Racing that I've installed in other models of cars also use boxes under the main hoop and front downtubes. This might be for safety and it also might be for installation/manufacturing convenience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 The box provides a better load path to a 22 gauge sheet metal floor, but I still think it's an engineering afterthought once the cage is tied into the rocker. It's not hard to add the boxes, so just add them to avoid the hassle later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 First, I'd like to offer up an apology to the site administrators, the general 'community', and specifically Mr. Coffey & Mr. Mortensen. I intentionally made the title very vague in hopes of generating more 'hits' based upon curiosity, which 'might' have resulted in more suggestions. I meant no disrespect. I searched 'Retractors' & 'hoop' and didn't get anything, so I thought that my tactic would get responses quicker. Again, my apologies. Now, I'd also like to extend specific appreciation for Mr. Coffey's & Mr. Mortensen's indulgence. I am well-aware of their prominence on the site, as well as extensive experience. Theirs are the insights that I had hoped for; but, didn't want to impose by contacting them directly. I will carefully read the link that Mr. Mortensen provided, and with Mr. Coffey's permission, make follow-up questions directly so as not to impose on the 'community' any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 The input on this particular thread was great, as was the link to Jon's big project w/ copious photo documentation. At this point, the only input that I am gathering 'might' enable the use of the OE retractors is Mr. Coffey's suggestion of angling the main hoop into the rocker. In doing so, I fear that I will prevent installation of the interior 'dog leg; trim piece; but, I guess that I just can't 'have my cake and eat it too'. Sorry, old family expression.... Thanks again....I'll continue to scratch my head now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat240zg Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Here's another possible solution.... I am running a roll bar on the back and harnesses. I'm like you and wanted retractors; so I talked with Corbeau and they have harnesses with retractors at the top, where they would mount to the roll bar. You use a weld on mounting tab and the bases of the harnesses mount like stock. I'll try to get a link to their product page and some pics. Bryan Dat240zg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 The box provides a better load path to a 22 gauge sheet metal floor, but I still think it's an engineering afterthought once the cage is tied into the rocker. A properly designed box ties into the floor pan, rocker, and rear bulkhead just like any properly designed main hoop plate. It does not just rely on the 22 gauge floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 That's very nice work John! I agree with you, I'm just passing on the criticism that I received. It was all about the tube not attaching to the floor, and how the cage wouldn't pass tech if the bottom of the tube was left exposed. EDIT--Coffey has a ton of experience here and owns and operates a fabrication shop. I have next to none and the cage I linked to was my first attempt. I do try to do my homework though and I think what I came up with (with the help of many a Hybrid Z'er) is pretty good if maybe a little overkill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 I do try to do my homework though and I think what I came up with (with the help of many a Hybrid Z'er) is pretty good if maybe a little overkill. Your cage is very well designed and hell for strong. I wouldn't hestitate to use your car to ram Elephants out on the Serengeti... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted April 4, 2008 Author Share Posted April 4, 2008 So....is the short answer to a long question, "No, it is not possible to properly mount a main hoop and retain the floor retractor pockets" ? It appears to be the case, especially considering the great pics provided by John & Jon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajcsi Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 Here's another possible solution.... I am running a roll bar on the back and harnesses. I'm like you and wanted retractors; so I talked with Corbeau and they have harnesses with retractors at the top, where they would mount to the roll bar. You use a weld on mounting tab and the bases of the harnesses mount like stock. I'll try to get a link to their product page and some pics. Bryan Dat240zg I recently picked up a set of seat belts from a guy that had the retractors at the top and mounted in the stock location on the strut tower and one the bolt on the rocker. I have a rear strut bar so I lost the trim piece anyway and used the nice little black box the retractor came in (though it will fit without the cover in the stock location with trim. You can get them from http://www.international-auto.com/ (Charlottesville, VA) as a set. They are most likely made by these guys - http://www.andoauto.com/seat_belts.htm. These are basically what I got (http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=3832) and I just got rid of the b-pillar pivot, reverse the belt (careful here or you can junk the retractor) and away you go. I'll post a pic if interested. The only real problem I have with it is that the belt doesn't stiffly stay in place for you to grab when you want to put it on - but I am sure you can get a little lick that does that. edit: I'm not sure if the bar interferes with the stock belt location on the strut tower... but figured I would throw that out there. Brett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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