280z-racer Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 lookin for advice on a welder to get me started with Mig welding. i had some experience with stick welding a few years ago but not a whole lot. really i want something that will be versatile but not overboard. help me out if you can guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tannji Posted April 18, 2008 Share Posted April 18, 2008 Do a quick search of the forum... this has been covered a lot of times in pretty good detail over the years. come back to this post if you still have any questions. = ) (once you have read what has already been said, let us know what you learned, and based on budget, intended use, etc... what you are leaning towards.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 millermatic SP135(plus). But if your just doing it as a hobby, I suggest just buying a flux core unit off of craigslist. Got mine for $75. Only problem I have is splatter, so I just hit it with a grinder after. Cage: I suggest the MIG. its hard to get at it with a grinder with fluxcore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 AK, you merged brands there. Millermatic is a "140" or whatever. Lincoln uses "SP". I have a Lincoln SP100-T and love it! I bought it refurb from weldingmart.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 AK, you merged brands there. Millermatic is a "140" or whatever. Lincoln uses "SP". I have a Lincoln SP100-T and love it! I bought it refurb from weldingmart.com. Oops, buess I did. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynekarnes Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 for most of your automotive projects, you can get by with the hobart 140. it is 110 volt, means you can use it most anywhere. 30 percent duty cycle. means weld for constant 3 mins let cool (YES ) for 7 minutes. i seriously doubt you will be making any 3 minute welds. has not been an issue for me or any of my friends. i have the hobart 140, welding with flux core wire. reason for flux core is can weld thicker metal and i am welding in carport. wind blows the gas away. have not done any work on 240z with the mig. my buddy from work welded 2 and half inch dom and 3 in dom tubing on a roll cage in his scout. we modified the custom cage he bought, added extra reinforcements, cut and added additonal mounting points and supports. we are also welding together a roll cage into 72 baja bug. .09 mild steel tubing. is a score certified cage and we are modifying it. cage is being tied bumper to bumper. we made saddles and welded to the rear torsion bar, tieing two down tubes to the torsion bar. under the rear window on the firewall, we have a 1/4 inch thick plate bolted to the firewall. two tubes off the rear of cage welded to that plate, as well as 2 other points of contacts to the same plate. no holes for tubes to pass through firewalls. instead we are welding 3/16 and 1/4 inch plates for "feet" drill through the feet, through firewall, body, using grade 8 nuts and bolts to tie things together. again i have welded 1/4 inch plate steel together with no problems. my neighbor is professional welder and is very impressed with the hobart. he is a miller man. the hobart is a knock off of the miller ( hobart is made by miller ). uses a few lighter weight parts and few plastic where the miller uses metal and heavier ga. i am thinking of moving up to another welder ( my neighbor says i am wasting my money, stick with the 140 ), as i want to weld some 1/2 inch stuff in one pass. my neighbor used the 140 and made perfect welds on 1/2 inch steel. took 3 passes, wire speed at 40, voltage set on 4. was thinking of adding the hobart 187 to my garage. it is a 220 volt welder, more ummph going in. but i will need to keep the welder close to the electric outlet. where with the 140 i have a 50 foot cord ( 12 ga ) and can take it that far from the outlet. 110 volt welder, take welder to the car as opposed to bringing car to the welder. again, my neighbor says i don't need it ( 220 v welder ). will be waste of my money, he says all i need is practice and patients. he certainly has that patients part down. what you planning on welding ? if just car stuff, give the hobart 140 a serious look see. i got mine brand new off ebay, including shipping to my house for right around 400 bucks. if you are thinking you will be welding thicker material on off road vehicles, lots of 5/16 thick material, you may want the 220 v welder. if so, give the hobart 187 a good look. otherwise, i think you will be very happy with the hobart 140. stop by the welding and fabricating area of hybridz.org. submit same question there. good luck, wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 I have a Lincoln 175 that's been absolutely awesome. I don't think I've ever had a bad weld with this MIG. I connected a bottle of gas the day I got it and I've never looked back. It's 220V, but I'm working on an extension cord idea using some twist lock extension and some outlets built into the cart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 IMO use somebody elses machines to see what you like. I have a 250amp mig and a 200 amp tig. But if you use several you'll find you prefer one over the rest or several that will do. The higher end machines tend to have better current control, ie. no big jumps between amp settings. IMO there is no starter machine, buy what you need. A 175 amp machine is as small as I would go (my opinion) and I would definately go with gas than without. It's easier to weld, produces a higher quality weld and with alitle practice will make you look like a pro even though we know your not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 IMO use somebody elses machines to see what you like. I have a 250amp mig and a 200 amp tig. But if you use several you'll find you prefer one over the rest or several that will do. The higher end machines tend to have better current control, ie. no big jumps between amp settings. IMO there is no starter machine, buy what you need. A 175 amp machine is as small as I would go (my opinion) and I would definately go with gas than without. It's easier to weld, produces a higher quality weld and with alitle practice will make you look like a pro even though we know your not. True, I'm just a hobbyist so I went with the 175 as it does what I need which is mostly sheet metal work and some mild steel. If I could have afforded it though I would have bought a bigger MIG. Still trying to find a TIG for a decent price used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy82zx Posted April 23, 2008 Share Posted April 23, 2008 If you want a total piece of ♥♥♥♥ buy a clarke hot shot. The wire feed control is very touchy and is mounted on the gun. It is far to easy to bump and mess up. you have to get the setting perfect or it wont run a bead. I have gotten decent with it. I can make much better welds with the schools millers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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