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carrillo rods and r32 crank with oil pump collar


stony

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I'm not going to post this up in the for sale area just yet as it is kinda specific to this area.

 

Well I went ahead and ordered a set of Brian crower billet rods. I thought I had HKS rods till I removed them and looked at them… They are actually Carrillo rods. I have 5 good ones and if you buy a new rod from Carrillo to replace the bad one it will cost 385 plus shipping…. Anyone interested in the set of 5????

 

300.00?????

 

What about a stock r32 crank with a oil pump mod done to it? Needs to be turned

100.00?????

 

You may ask why you don’t just do that yourself... Well im kind of in a time crunch and the Carrillo rod is at least a month out, the crower rods will be here next week. Another reason is I don’t have any really good MACHINE shops up here in Alaska I could trust with a crank they have never worked with before. 3RD I’m going to step it up some and I want to make sure the rods are up to the task.

 

So if anyone out there is interested let me know. I will have the crank out of the block by the end of the week. Rods are ready to go now.

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The eagle rods i can still get for 550 plus shipping but for another 200 i can get billets.... what would you do?

 

Im looking at turning 9K rpm and 30+PSI so that is just a little bit of piece of mind for me

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by billet do you mean billet aluminum?

 

I'm not sure if it's anything worth mentioning because, sadly, you've taken apart your engine more times in the car's downtime than many people have throughout their entire race-life with one car/engine.

 

but aluminum rods will be out of round and stretch beyond acceptable tolerances after about 75 - 85 passes, and really bad by about 100. Especially at 8,000+ rpm which is conservative given your full tune JUN head.

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The industry standard by which other rods are measured. Manufactured exclusively from USA made, 4340 billet chromoly steel. The standard billet rod is the strongest, most durable rod, and is intended for high horsepower applications.

 

And for the record I have changed a HG just before this latest rod bearing thing. Not sure where you got this from????

I'm not sure if it's anything worth mentioning because, sadly, you've taken apart your engine more times in the car's downtime than many people have throughout their entire race-life with one car/engine

 

Now it has been in and out of the car many times for mock up stuff but that’s

about it.:shifty:

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i think i know of a good machine shop i could trust...do you mind PM'ing me some info on what needs to be done to it and i might actually have one that would do it for me at a good price...also where did you pick up the billets from? im going above 9,000 and closer to 35-40 PSI and want some assurance as well lol

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From eagles website... as far as i could tell eagle dosnt make billet rods.

 

Nissan

“ESP†H-Beam Connecting Rods

“ESP†connecting rods are forged from 4340 steel and utilize 3/8†ARP2000 bolts with alignment sleeves for a perfect fit. Packaged in

weight-matched sets (+/- 1g). Sizing is done on the state of the art Sunnen Krossgrinding™system. “ESP†connecting rods are the perfect

choice for engines up to 900 HP(4 cylinder) or 1500HP (6 Cylinder).

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One piece or two piece makes little difference as long as you get the grain to flow in a "hoop" around the big end. This is one area where forged rods beat out billets. Billets have the grain going in one direction, where forged rods can make the material denser and shape the grain to be stronger relative to the direction it will be stressed.

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One piece or two piece makes little difference as long as you get the grain to flow in a "hoop" around the big end. This is one area where forged rods beat out billets. Billets have the grain going in one direction, where forged rods can make the material denser and shape the grain to be stronger relative to the direction it will be stressed.

 

that's what i've been hearing too. SPOOL rods are two piece and have the big end punched out to redirect the grain direction, making it "like a knot in wood"

 

Anyone who's tried to hand-saw wood will attest to the multiplication of strength required to saw through those little buggers and the wood surrounding 'em :shifty:

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  • 1 month later...
that's what i've been hearing too. SPOOL rods are two piece and have the big end punched out to redirect the grain direction, making it "like a knot in wood"

 

Anyone who's tried to hand-saw wood will attest to the multiplication of strength required to saw through those little buggers and the wood surrounding 'em :shifty:

if anyone is interested in buying a set of Spool rods to suit an RB30 i am selling a brand new,unused set

willing to ship stateside and take paypal

PM me if anyone's keen

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Rods are gone.

 

i think i know of a good machine shop i could trust...do you mind PM'ing me some info on what needs to be done to it and i might actually have one that would do it for me at a good price...also where did you pick up the billets from? im going above 9,000 and closer to 35-40 PSI and want some assurance as well lol

 

The crank spun a rod bearing. The bearing material needs to be removed and all the journals polished.

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Here are some pics of the crank. I would say it should be savable BUT I would guess you would have to have someone do it that knows rb cranks and how much can be taken off.

 

at any rate I figure someone would want to try. 50 Bux + shipping takes it.

 

DSC03393.jpg

 

DSC03392.jpg

 

DSC03391.jpg

 

backyard oil pump mod!!! Ugly but i guess it works. I would have a machine shop take that off and do the collar mod.

 

DSC03390.jpg

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