Jump to content
HybridZ

slave cylinder moves but clutch not disengage


Ferd/289

Recommended Posts

Did a search on clutches not disengaging but here is my twist. When I push in the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder moves from a nuetral position to a obviously open position since it just about crushes the rubber boot.

The pedal feels soft however and the clutch is not disengaging.

My question is how can the slave move what seems to be the full movement, and pedal feel soft and clutch not disengage?

 

BTW, The lever on the slave cylinder moves towards the front of the car when I press the clutch pedal. Is this correct as I did not install the slave cylinder?

 

When in gear clutch not disengaging, when out of gear wheels freewheel.

Ferd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:shifty:

Did a search on clutches not disengaging but here is my twist. When I push in the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder moves from a nuetral position to a obviously open position since it just about crushes the rubber boot.

The pedal feels soft however and the clutch is not disengaging.

My question is how can the slave move what seems to be the full movement, and pedal feel soft and clutch not disengage?

 

BTW, The lever on the slave cylinder moves towards the front of the car when I press the clutch pedal. Is this correct as I did not install the slave cylinder?

 

When in gear clutch not disengaging, when out of gear wheels freewheel.

Ferd

 

First is this a L28 motor or a V8? The Z trans slave cylinder pushes the fork towards the back, while the fork pushes the t/o bearing towards the front of the car.

1. Did you bleed the slave/master enough cylinders?

2. Clutch master has a adjustable rod that attaches to the pedal, that can be adjusted.

3. Slave also has a adjustable rod pushing the fork (depending on year)

4. any oil leaks?

 

 

 

-JT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much clearance (or play do you have) between the normal (at rest) position of the SC, and the arm if you were to manually (by hand) push the arm rearward so that it pushes the throwout bearing into contact with the pressure plate? You should have very little play here (perhaps a 1/16" or so if everything is ready to operate properly). To add one more question; How much does the SC rod extend when you push on the clutch pedal. If the hydraulic assembly is correct, you should get some pretty good movement (which appears to be as you described), so this leads me to believe you've done this part right.

 

I have heard of folks installing the clutch disc backwards, but you'd have to be pretty distracted during assembly to do this, and the result is just as you've described.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the EXACT same problem that i'm having with my recent turbo clutch install and i've posted a thread about it but noone seemed to have the same problem until i saw your post.. right now i'm waiting on parts but if the parts i ordered fix my problem then i'll make sure and leave another reply here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the EXACT same problem that i'm having with my recent turbo clutch install and i've posted a thread about it but noone seemed to have the same problem until i saw your post.. right now i'm waiting on parts but if the parts i ordered fix my problem then i'll make sure and leave another reply here

 

 

Yeah I had the same problem when I installed a act 6 puck and act PP rated for 400hp. What I did was change the slave cylinder from a pathfinder, and adjust the throw on the master cylinder. And also remove the pedal stop on the bottom floor... The other alternative would be to buy a bigger Master cylinder but I already had a new stock one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ended up with a similar problem when I installed my Z32 Transmission. I ended up moving the pivot point for the clutch fork closer to the flywheel.

 

My Pressure plate / Flywheel combo was thiner then factory. Works now...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the responses. Someone asked about my engine, its a SBF/289. I have not worked on the car this week, but now I think I have the slave in backwards since it pushes the fork foward ( towards front of car) which would move TOB towards rear of car which I think is backwards.

I have never worked on clutches myself before as I think you can tell.

Ferd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my clutch fork is the type that is pulled forward ( towards fornt of car) and thusly pushes throwout coller into the pressure plate fingers to release clutch. I will look through the fork opening tomorrow. I may have disconnected the fork by pulling on it 'outwards tothe side of the car. Ouch!

Can I remove the fork without removing bellhousing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ended up with a similar problem when I installed my Z32 Transmission. I ended up moving the pivot point for the clutch fork closer to the flywheel.

 

My Pressure plate / Flywheel combo was thiner then factory. Works now...

 

I just did the Z32 swap and encountered this issue. However, after adjusting the master slave to clutch pedal adjustment, adjusting the clutch pedal stop and adjusting my slave (I have an ealry slave), I have no problems now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...