Ferd/289 Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Did a search on clutches not disengaging but here is my twist. When I push in the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder moves from a nuetral position to a obviously open position since it just about crushes the rubber boot. The pedal feels soft however and the clutch is not disengaging. My question is how can the slave move what seems to be the full movement, and pedal feel soft and clutch not disengage? BTW, The lever on the slave cylinder moves towards the front of the car when I press the clutch pedal. Is this correct as I did not install the slave cylinder? When in gear clutch not disengaging, when out of gear wheels freewheel. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Did a search on clutches not disengaging but here is my twist. When I push in the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder moves from a nuetral position to a obviously open position since it just about crushes the rubber boot.The pedal feels soft however and the clutch is not disengaging. My question is how can the slave move what seems to be the full movement, and pedal feel soft and clutch not disengage? BTW, The lever on the slave cylinder moves towards the front of the car when I press the clutch pedal. Is this correct as I did not install the slave cylinder? When in gear clutch not disengaging, when out of gear wheels freewheel. Ferd First is this a L28 motor or a V8? The Z trans slave cylinder pushes the fork towards the back, while the fork pushes the t/o bearing towards the front of the car. 1. Did you bleed the slave/master enough cylinders? 2. Clutch master has a adjustable rod that attaches to the pedal, that can be adjusted. 3. Slave also has a adjustable rod pushing the fork (depending on year) 4. any oil leaks? -JT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 How much clearance (or play do you have) between the normal (at rest) position of the SC, and the arm if you were to manually (by hand) push the arm rearward so that it pushes the throwout bearing into contact with the pressure plate? You should have very little play here (perhaps a 1/16" or so if everything is ready to operate properly). To add one more question; How much does the SC rod extend when you push on the clutch pedal. If the hydraulic assembly is correct, you should get some pretty good movement (which appears to be as you described), so this leads me to believe you've done this part right. I have heard of folks installing the clutch disc backwards, but you'd have to be pretty distracted during assembly to do this, and the result is just as you've described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrEaM Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 This is the EXACT same problem that i'm having with my recent turbo clutch install and i've posted a thread about it but noone seemed to have the same problem until i saw your post.. right now i'm waiting on parts but if the parts i ordered fix my problem then i'll make sure and leave another reply here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 This is the EXACT same problem that i'm having with my recent turbo clutch install and i've posted a thread about it but noone seemed to have the same problem until i saw your post.. right now i'm waiting on parts but if the parts i ordered fix my problem then i'll make sure and leave another reply here Yeah I had the same problem when I installed a act 6 puck and act PP rated for 400hp. What I did was change the slave cylinder from a pathfinder, and adjust the throw on the master cylinder. And also remove the pedal stop on the bottom floor... The other alternative would be to buy a bigger Master cylinder but I already had a new stock one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seth Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 I ended up with a similar problem when I installed my Z32 Transmission. I ended up moving the pivot point for the clutch fork closer to the flywheel. My Pressure plate / Flywheel combo was thiner then factory. Works now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 I installed the wrong clutch release bearing carrier and had that same problem once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 Thanks for the responses. Someone asked about my engine, its a SBF/289. I have not worked on the car this week, but now I think I have the slave in backwards since it pushes the fork foward ( towards front of car) which would move TOB towards rear of car which I think is backwards. I have never worked on clutches myself before as I think you can tell. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferd/289 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Share Posted May 9, 2008 I think my clutch fork is the type that is pulled forward ( towards fornt of car) and thusly pushes throwout coller into the pressure plate fingers to release clutch. I will look through the fork opening tomorrow. I may have disconnected the fork by pulling on it 'outwards tothe side of the car. Ouch! Can I remove the fork without removing bellhousing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 I ended up with a similar problem when I installed my Z32 Transmission. I ended up moving the pivot point for the clutch fork closer to the flywheel. My Pressure plate / Flywheel combo was thiner then factory. Works now... I just did the Z32 swap and encountered this issue. However, after adjusting the master slave to clutch pedal adjustment, adjusting the clutch pedal stop and adjusting my slave (I have an ealry slave), I have no problems now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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