zeeboost Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I've been running the stock 240mm setup for a while, but recently I've been tuning it for 18psi and, needless to say, it started slipping pretty bad. Now it breaks loose at 9psi in 3rd gear, so I need to replace it. I plan on upgrading to a larger turbo in the future, but for now I plan on keeping the same setup. This is on my '72 240z turbo, mostly stock. I'm thinking about just buying the ACT 6-puck clutch disk while retaining the factory pressure plate, but what potential problems could this create? Has anyone else here done this? I've searched, but I think the only one I found was Big-Phil with an unsprung disc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I've run puck disks with stock pressure plates. It will hold alot more torque. On a 7m set up I went from slipping at 23 psi to being able to hold 28 psi before it slipped. About an extra 100 ft/lbs with just a 6 puck. Engaugement is not as nice with either sprung or solid pucks without that marcel though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 The other option (which I've suggested before on many occasions) is a firmer pp with a stock disk. Smoother engagement and still will hold more torque. At some point you may need both to hold down the power you're making, but my idea is why suffer with a chattery clutch when you don't have to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share Posted May 7, 2008 The other option (which I've suggested before on many occasions) is a firmer pp with a stock disk. Smoother engagement and still will hold more torque. At some point you may need both to hold down the power you're making, but my idea is why suffer with a chattery clutch when you don't have to? I remember you saying this before, but IIRC you were talking to someone that wanted an upgrade for an 190-200hp n/a autoX car. The reason why I'm thinking just the disc is because in my head a 6-puck disc should be able to take more abuse than the stock one with a larger pressure plate. But I'm usually not correct with these things, which is one reason why I posted this How much do you think an upgraded PP with the OEM clutch could hold? Plus, I'm not sure how many miles the current disc has on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Bastaad525 used an ACT pp with stock disk (or it may have been their kevlar disk) and I think he was putting down 300+ lbs of torque. I'm using a 225mm ACT pp with a stock Nissan disk and it holds my ~200 ft lbs torque ~240 whp NA motor no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted May 7, 2008 Author Share Posted May 7, 2008 I thought he ran a Daikin? I remember him backing you up on the "upgrade PP before clutch disc". I looked for other opinions on the daikin but coudn't really find much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 I thought he ran a Daikin? I remember him backing you up on the "upgrade PP before clutch disc". I looked for other opinions on the daikin but coudn't really find much. Maybe you're right, I can't recall exactly right now. Daikin makes the HD pp, and that does ring a bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Alright, I just finished installing the ACT PP. I haven't driven the car yet, but I can agree that the pedal feel much stiffer, and I had to adjust the slave cylinder push rod almost all the way out to get full disengagement approximately an inch from the floorboard. I know this had been covered before, and apparently I needed a longer t/o bearing and a Pathfinder slave...but for others it worked well. Oh well, I'll see how I adjust to the new feel first. Anyways, the question: 1) Is there a break-in period if you just install the pressure plate? I was thinking the break-in was for the clutch/flywheel to properly break in...is this correct, or do I need to do a few hundred miles city driving first? I'd love to go test this baby out tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 You didn't have the flywheel surfaced? You really need to take it easy on that clutch for 300 miles or so. If it slips now, it can glaze the clutch. This problem could be compounded by the flywheel not being resurfaced. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Why would I resurface the flywheel if I'm using the same clutch disc? All I changed was the pressure plate. Say for example I upgrade to a stronger brake caliper, but re-use the old, stock pads. It wouldn't make sense for me to resurface the rotors. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Too late now ,but I would have rough sanded the clutch plate on the side that goes against the new pressure plate. Then treat it as a new clutch. Most if not all clutch mob's, recomend to take it easy for the first 3 to 500km. I too would like to know if this is necessary because it's impossible to do on a car that only gets driven at the track. Maybe there is another way to bed it in. Anyone know how to bed in the clutch on a race only car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 Alright, I just finished installing the ACT PP. I haven't driven the car yet, but I can agree that the pedal feel much stiffer, and I had to adjust the slave cylinder push rod almost all the way out to get full disengagement approximately an inch from the floorboard. I know this had been covered before, and apparently I needed a longer t/o bearing and a Pathfinder slave...but for others it worked well. No need for a different slave cylinder. You need to properly adjust your clutch system. There are two (or three if you have an early slave cylinder) adjustment locations: clutch pedal to master cylinder and clutch pedal stop. On an early slave you also have the adjustment at the fork. I am running a ACT pp with their street disk, a Z32 transmission, along with the stock 240z MC and a 1970/71 adjustable slave. I have no issues with engagement/disengagement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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