RedEvilrps13 Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 alright here's where i stand with this car. i did the timing chain, the timing is DEAD ON, and i have fuel and spark, and damned decent compression (160 across the board). its still flooding, and ive already fouled a set of brand new plugs, and i keep ketting fuel in my oil, so its getting annoying. so, in the spirit that i need Air, Fuel, and Spark.....how do i check the operation of the MAF and make sure im getting proper air. and again this thing keeps flooding. also, this is a BONE STOCK L28 in a 1978 280Z 2+2. HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 seriously? no one can help me with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 If it is flooding have your verified your fuel pressure? If it is too high it will flood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 I take it you can't start it? Quick checks: Themodyne cold start injector voltage to the injectors (ground opening and closeing?) stuck injectors Did this just start? Did you just replace a part? Has the car ran in the last week/ year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted May 18, 2008 Administrators Share Posted May 18, 2008 seriously? no one can help me with this? Chill. Its only been 6 hours. The most common cause of 'flooding' with an L-Jet is a problem with the water temp circuit. The sensor itself, poor contacts, or, much less likely, a wiring problem. The most noticeable behavior is that it starts up and runs fine when its cold and, as it warms, it runs progressively richer, with the car eventually running very poorly or not at all. Under what specific conditions is it flooding? Being clear and descriptive will get you on the road sooner and more efficiently. Changing title to something useful for the next guy... P.S. Fix your shift key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 18, 2008 Author Share Posted May 18, 2008 since it has been in my possession, the car has never ran right. (read: 4 months)... i just did the timing chain, due to the chain tensioner being no good. the timing is dead on. when i start the car, it will rev to 1K RPMs and then suddenly drop to 500, and when you give it gas, it stutters like crazy and the revs hardly move. while doing this, the car smokes out the tail pipe like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Black gassy smelling smoke I assume? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 EFI bible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 19, 2008 Author Share Posted May 19, 2008 Black gassy smelling smoke I assume? yep. pretty much. and i have the EFI bible, and it isnt helping. my roommate gave me a bit of an idea to go off of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Ok, Have you let the car warm up? I know it is not right cold but warmed up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Ok, Have you let the car warm up?I know it is not right cold but warmed up? ive tried, but it wont stay running long enough to warm up....even with my foot on the gas pedal it wont stay running. i ran it with out the MAF plugged in yesterday, the rev bounced from 500rpms to 1500rpms repeatedly, but it actually revved when i gave it gas. as soon as i plugged it in, the idle went to 500rpms and died. at this point i'm thinking MAF, but why would it smoke so bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted May 20, 2008 Share Posted May 20, 2008 Did not think the car would run with that disconnected? So, you recently needed the boots on ether side of the MAF? Are they in good shape with NO vaccume leaks? Is the ground good to the MAF? If you are convinced this may be the problem I would take the plastic lid off of it, clean up the contacts, put a mark on the wheel in there and "play" around with your mixure. Even if it is really toast you may learn a bit about that thing. Yes that is a problematic part on the cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 20, 2008 Author Share Posted May 20, 2008 Did not think the car would run with that disconnected?So, you recently needed the boots on ether side of the MAF? Are they in good shape with NO vaccume leaks? Is the ground good to the MAF? If you are convinced this may be the problem I would take the plastic lid off of it, clean up the contacts, put a mark on the wheel in there and "play" around with your mixure. Even if it is really toast you may learn a bit about that thing. Yes that is a problematic part on the cars. someone's been in it before, the bolts are rusted and stripped....and i havent put the new boots on yet. i will when i get my new airbox assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 ITS ALIVE!!! the previous owner had the wrong AFM on it! i got another one and the two didnt even look alike, so im assuming it was off of a 280zx.... but she still smokes. alot. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 HOT DANG!!! GREAT JOB! Way to stick it out and learn!!! Your well on your way boosting it;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 hehe thanks man! well she needs floors/frame before anything else....oh and i should probably bolt down the driver's seat hmm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 and i have the EFI bible, and it isnt helping. Just to be pedantic, you need the EFI Bible and a multimeter. The EFI bible gives AFM checks which should have revealed your AFM problem right on the spot. Following the EFI Bible circuit checks, you can check all circuits in the system within 45 minutes, and in a similar time do all the component checks that would follow on from getting a 'bad' circuit check. I'm glad you got it running, but how was the EFI Bible 'not helping' in this diagnosis, as what you replaced IS covered in there quite explicitly... I'm curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEvilrps13 Posted May 29, 2008 Author Share Posted May 29, 2008 i dont do well with books and working on cars, hell i work on subarus at a dealership, and the FSM messes me up sometimes. i went by the 3 rules of an engine running deal...Air, Fuel, Spark. had fuel and spark, so yeah, that left air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 If the car has ever been jumped with the battery backwards, your injector drivers will be fused to ground which leaves the injectors on all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 Just to be pedantic, you need the EFI Bible and a multimeter. The EFI bible gives AFM checks which should have revealed your AFM problem right on the spot. Following the EFI Bible circuit checks, you can check all circuits in the system within 45 minutes, and in a similar time do all the component checks that would follow on from getting a 'bad' circuit check. I'm glad you got it running, but how was the EFI Bible 'not helping' in this diagnosis, as what you replaced IS covered in there quite explicitly... I'm curious. I hate to be a dick and say "that was my point exactly" but... well.... it sort of was. This EFI system is so simple that you NEED the book to walk you through it, because the book walk through takes, as Tony says, about an hour.... and you are DONE. You HAVE found your issue. without the book, you post a thread, fight it for a week, and ultimately solve your mystery through chance as much as anything else. Do me and yourself both a favor. Pretend you've never seen an L28E, and go read the first half of the book word for word. When it gets to specific testing, skim it so that you read the procedures, what to test, where.. but don't worry about pinouts and relative values of each instrument. Just what you are checking for (volts, ohms, milliohms, kilo ohms, etc) If you can do that and manage to translate what you read into an image of working on the car, then you WILL come away from this hour long read with 100 times more understanding of your car as you have now. Remember, I'm not trying to be an ass and say "If you'dve read the book you would have caught that right away!" I am trying to show you how much easier this trial could have been for you, and make future repairs & diagnoses, AND future upgrading and tuning a MUCH easier process for you. A mechanic who can't read his books is a recipe for disaster, sooner or later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.