rustrocket Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 After much debate, i really like the idea of going carbed on the ls2. Plan is as follows: GMPP single plane manifold (unless i get another recommendation?) MSD 6Ls-2 ignition Custom built carb. So, that being said, i have about another $1,000-1,200 that i can afford to spend on the engine. What do you think the best bang for the buck would be? Porting heads? New CNC L92 heads? Cam only? I'm looking for about 400-450 at the wheels to use in autox, spirited mountain driving, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 After much debate, i really like the idea of going carbed on the ls2. Plan is as follows:GMPP single plane manifold (unless i get another recommendation?) MSD 6Ls-2 ignition Custom built carb. So, that being said, i have about another $1,000-1,200 that i can afford to spend on the engine. What do you think the best bang for the buck would be? Porting heads? New CNC L92 heads? Cam only? I'm looking for about 400-450 at the wheels to use in autox, spirited mountain driving, etc. How much did you get your engine for? Im planning on the same thing... Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 hey Terry. Still hittin the gym? How are things? Ummm...The motor is out of '06 corvette and has 13,000 miles on it. I picked it up for $2600 shipped, minus the ECU and pedal assembly. After much searching, i came across a t56 + clutch and fly for $1,000...All in all, i feel like $3600 for a 13,000 mile ls2 and t56 is a pretty good deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 hey Terry. Still hittin the gym? How are things? Ummm...The motor is out of '06 corvette and has 13,000 miles on it. I picked it up for $2600 shipped, minus the ECU and pedal assembly. After much searching, i came across a t56 + clutch and fly for $1,000...All in all, i feel like $3600 for a 13,000 mile ls2 and t56 is a pretty good deal Wholly Molly!!! Id say thats a great deal! If only I can get so lucky when it comes time. That will be one sweet swap! Im still in the gym but starting to have those damn joints problems from all the years of heavy lifting...oh well adapt and over come I guess...hehe. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 After much debate, i really like the idea of going carbed on the ls2. Plan is as follows:GMPP single plane manifold (unless i get another recommendation?) MSD 6Ls-2 ignition Custom built carb. So, that being said, i have about another $1,000-1,200 that i can afford to spend on the engine. What do you think the best bang for the buck would be? Porting heads? New CNC L92 heads? Cam only? I'm looking for about 400-450 at the wheels to use in autox, spirited mountain driving, etc. Viperredls1 has a similar car. LS2 with edelbrock performer RPM manifold, MSD 6010 (better than the distributor option), cam, LS6 heads, and a 750 sportsman demon. It's making the power levels you're looking for. I can tell you that even with 14 inches of rubber in the back this car is able to spin the tires at will in second and for a good part of third. It's a handful to try and use that much power at an autox. It's a time machine. All the 40 and 50 year old guys that drive it suddenly act like they're 16 again and just snagged dad's keys Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I can tell you that even with 14 inches of rubber in the back this car is able to spin the tires at will in second and for a good part of third. It's a handful to try and use that much power at an autox. I hear that car has so much power it hurts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Thats all good input, thanks! And yes, i see traction being my biggest problem. I just want something fun and ridiculously overpowered So, i've been looking at the single plane gm performance parts manifold, which claims a power range from 2800-7000. Am i better off with the edelbrock rpm, dual plane? Do we have his cam specs? The msd 6ls-2 is configured for the 58x reluctor wheel, the 6010 is for the 26x. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I hear that car has so much power it hurts... Yes, it has this effect on me. It's also the first car I've ever seen to shake it's tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Thats all good input, thanks! And yes, i see traction being my biggest problem. I just want something fun and ridiculously overpowered So, i've been looking at the single plane gm performance parts manifold, which claims a power range from 2800-7000. Am i better off with the edelbrock rpm, dual plane? Do we have his cam specs? The msd 6ls-2 is configured for the 58x reluctor wheel, the 6010 is for the 26x. Go over to ebay and search for the GMPP manifold by part number. Wegner is selling some for $259 and had 24 the last time I checked. This is what I have. I can't say if this will be better or worse. I'm putting this on an LS1 with a HOT cam. There's a guy on ebay that's doing LS cams for $100 from time to time. Dave built his motor more for mid-range power rather than top end. I can't recall his cam but he reads these threads and hopefully will chime in. It's supposed to stop at 65/6600 hundred but it will pull to 7200 if you're not careful. The single plane may be easier to drive because it won't have such a large amount of torque down low. It pulls from about 1800 on up with the performer manifold. His LS2 has the 26x reluctor but you're right they normally need the 6012. On the carbs we've found that you want the annular boosters. They do a much better job at atomizing the fuel down low and you get a lot more low end this way. We've tried a 650 demon DP and it seemed strong but the 750 annular feels like we have a nitrous button. In a car setup to turn with a poor launch he did a 12 flat at 120 in the quarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 I couldnt find viperredls1 but i did find viperredls1z. I'm guessing/hoping it's the same person, because i sent a pm I'll check out the wegner manifolds, i know they sold them to GM. Do you recommend doing with the 750 instead of having a carb custom built to my cam and other mods? Edit: $262 shipped. NICE. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Chevrolet-Performance-Intake-Manifold-88958675_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ133200QQihZ008QQitemZ180242616936QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW This looks like a nice pricepoint as well! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__SPEED-DEMON-750-ANNULAR-VACUUM-W-CHOKE-BARRY-GRANT_W0QQitemZ290234992777QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item290234992777& Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dat260 Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Hi, Looking forward to see progress on your engin build, I'am subscribing to this thread. Check out this link: http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild/116_0704_lq4_short_block/index.html I know you have an LS engine but this article has a small paragraph about the carb and intake with dyno numbers. Do not forget to update. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Here's the semi-official build thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134849 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Do you recommend doing with the 750 instead of having a carb custom built to my cam and other mods? I'm about the last person you want to talk to for carb advice. I found the 750 from researching a few books and magazine articles and those had dyno curves showing annular versus dog leg boosters. We've ran three carbs, all demons. 750 vacuum secondaries (not so hot), 650 mechanical secondaries (dog legs) much better, and the 750 sportsman with road race floats (the best). You don't want vacuum secondaries for performance apps. A custom carb may be even better but when you have enough power to burn the rear tires off it gets to be sorta moot. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Forgive this ignorant question, but why on earth would you want to swap in a carb in lieu of F/I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Cost, simplicity, performance gains, and because i want to! Taken from one of BRAAP's posts: Carbs are a simple to install means of introducing fuel to the air stream, and the atomization characteristics of carburetors is still first rate. Back in the late ‘90’s only Mechanical injection, (Kinsler, Hillborn etc) could match the fuel atomizing characteristics of carburetors. Still today, I think you’d be hard pressed to find an Electronic Fuel injector with equal or better fuel atomization characteristics. Again, Carbs offer incredible fuel atomization, ease of installation, the ability to get the engine up and running in a timely manner, over all induction costs are much less, and overall WOT performance will be comparable to EFI, (look at how much power NASCAR engine builders get from Carbs with highly restrictive plates?!?!). Until EFI can match those criteria, I can honesty see where Carbs still have a place, even on today’s modern high tech power plants, even though my first choice is EFI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Forgive this ignorant question, but why on earth would you want to swap in a carb in lieu of F/I? If you search you'll find that this topic has been discussed before at length in regards to Pop N Wood's project. Needless to say FI is not the only answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Doh. I should have known better. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Your original post mentions mountain driving. If you're going to be doing a lot of hilly driving, just consider while planning your modifications that lack of low-end grunt could be an annoyance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustrocket Posted June 9, 2008 Author Share Posted June 9, 2008 Fair enough. What do we consider an acceptable power band? 2500-6500? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 The carbed car I drive pulls from 1500 or so and may not have as much torque as EFI but it still goes like hell. From 2500 on up I'd bet there's little difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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