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Reverse lockout


BLKMGK

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Just a heads up... I've pulled my reverse lockout unit and completely dissassembled it. I see how it works, why it works, and possibly how to make it more tolerable. I've taken some pics of it but have not yet had time to post them.

 

In short - there are two springs in the unit. The solenoid acts to force the transmission shifter to press against the larger spring when it's not been activated. This larger spring looks like a darned valvespring! It has to be compressed just to be assembled. The second spring looks like somehting you'd find in a ballpoint pen - very weak. When I've posted pics it should be a little more clear how the solenoid works.

 

I think my first mod will be to shorten the stock heavy spring such that it need not be compressed in order to assemble it. I DO want reverse to be tougher but right now it requires TWO hands! An extra push is okay but having to undo the belts to get it in reverse isn't okay icon_rolleyes.gif

 

I'll let everyone know how this goes. So far it's required NO special tools although pulling some of the clips without the special pliers has been a PITA. icon_sad.gif

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I replaced the large spring with one of the same diameter but weaker, then eliminated the solinoid assembly. You can feel resistance going into reverse, but nowhere near a two handed shift.

 

[ August 21, 2001: Message edited by: Mike kZ ]

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Doh, okay guys thanks! Makes sense now that I think about it. Hrm, maybe shorten it and then stretch it out? Replacement spring would certianly b best tho' I'm sure.

 

As for no added resistance - Ross something's been changed, trust me! I considered snipping off the end of the solenoid which would disable the "feature" but then it would be as weak as the other gears and I'd prefer not hit Reverse at speed. I considered wiring it up to the brake pedal too and will go that way if no easy psring solution pops up.

 

Ah well, will try to document this on my site with pics. Just haven't had time to put them up yet. icon_sad.gif

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Guest Locutus

What about a momentary type switch mounted on the dash somewhere so you can activate the solinoid to put in reverse when you need to, then it works like it was intended.

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  • 4 years later...

I just finished rebuilding a T-56 for my 240Z and was looking for information about the reverse lockout solenoid and what others are doing. My engine will not be fuel injected and will not have a computer. I decided to disasseble the solenoid to see if I could modify it in some way to lighten up the spring tension so I would not have the solenoid activating everytime I push on the brakes, etc. I found a simple solution which seems to work rather well. Just remove the drive pin that is part of the solenoid to allow the larger spring to bottom out in it's housing. I tried cutting the pin off but it is very tough, so I just ripped the guts out of the solenoid and pulled the pin out through the solenoid housing. Next I put the spring in the vise and compressed it enough to remove the snap ring that keeps it compressed. Then I just put the spring back in the housing and installed the housing sap ring to keep it there. The spring tension feels good, but if I feel like I need it stiffer later on, I can simply remove the spring and insert spacers in the bottom of the housing, thus compressing the spring allowing me to fine tune the tension. I decided to fill the empty solenoid housing with fiberglass resin to make it look a bit better.

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The reverse solenoid is a good thing to have. Prevents a potentially catastophic tranny failure and maybe your car along with it.. Imagine shifting into revese instead of grabbing fifth. I wired mine into a small microswitch near the shifter. If you don't have chevy parts electrical pig tail # 12085485, 12101857 is for the reverse light switch. Another friend used a B&M shifter with the switch on the handle. True you can "crash" through it if necessary, but why not have it there? Isn't reverse lock out required by NHRA tech inspection??

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  • 3 years later...

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