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Project VQ is Underway!


EMWHYR0HEN

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Thanks Guys.

 

I actually cranked the engine over today for a good bit to get the oil flowing and metered some pressure in the oil press gauge. All the wiring is completely done so startup should be just around the corner.

 

It's just a matter of finishing up my intake manifold and fuel system. I'll have some detailed wiring pics info shortly.

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I havnt been on here much in a while, so have only just found this thread. Real nice work man - Well done.

 

I really like all your front end chassis strengthening, pretty much exactly what i have planned for mine, but I will have my diaginal bars going back from strut towers passing right thru the firewall and pickup on the dash bar of roll cage, and also have two extra bars going straight back from strut towers on each side, one staying high back to the dash bar intersection with the front pillar cage bar, and the other heading back and down thru firewall to pickup on the lower mount of the front piller cage bar.

 

Loving your project - Keep it up! Thanks for sharing.

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Clint - Thanks. I'm sure your planned setup will be a huge improvement especially when it's tied into a roll cage.

 

Austin- I basically just primed the engine to get the blood flowing. Evereything seemed to be working. I heard all the relays turning on with power and with the key in IGN. The manifold and fuel system still isnt complete so I coulded start it up. I was super tempted to just spray a liitle fuel into the intake ports...lol.

 

Anyway, what are the symptoms of the ems going into failsafe mode?

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If the security system is up and working then the security light on the dash will flash. If you turn the key and it stays on constantly, your in failsafe. Either way if the power has been disconnected from the ecu for more then 48 hours it wont start period without going to the dealership. Im curious to see how you did your wiring, are you going to use the factory gauge signals?

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If the security system is up and working then the security light on the dash will flash. If you turn the key and it stays on constantly, your in failsafe. Either way if the power has been disconnected from the ecu for more then 48 hours it wont start period without going to the dealership. Im curious to see how you did your wiring, are you going to use the factory gauge signals?

 

I'm going to have to plug in the light and check. I don't get it the whole 48 hour battery disconnect thing. How did you manage to start yours? i'm assuming the battey has been disconnected for more than 48 hours..

 

I'm only using 3 gauges. My oil pressure and water temp are mechanical so no need to mess with the stock signals, but I still have to figure out what to do with the tach signal. I'm using an Autometer tach so my guess is i'm going to have to wire in a tach adapter onto the #1 coilpack and run the signal to the tach from there. That's the way I ran it with my RB setup but, the tach adapter will pretty much work for any setup.

 

What are you planning on doing with your gauges? I think it would be really cool if you got the 350Z cluster fitted on the 240z dash somehow. I know hooking it up would be as easy as plugging it in :D

 

Edit: now that I think about it I might just cut into my aluminum dash and fit this on there flush.

 

http://autos.yahoo.com/nissan_350z_coupe_nismo-slideshow/?tab=gen&i=izp_instrumentcluster

 

No need for the speedo since it gets its signal off of the ABS unit so It might be a good place for some auto meters... All I really need is the tach.

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Im going to have to do the same thing as you with my Autometer gauges. Oil pressure and temp are not a problem but I gotta figure out the tach and speedo. I was thinking about trying an inductor setup on the coil like you are talking about.

 

I was lucky :) To initially start my car Mark brought over a Consult and reprogrammed my key code, the key matched but the ecu has to be reprogrammed after 48 hours, according to mark...which was the case for my car. He is a Nissan master tech and really smart with electronics so I was taking his word on it!

 

Anyway good luck on the startup looking forward to it!

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I don't know if i'm just lucky or the whole failsafe thing doesn't apply to me..but I just plugged in the security light bulb and connected the battery and the light blinked when the key was out and turned off when the key was in ign. If I remember correctly that's exactly the way it was on my friends 350Z.

 

Also, I just remembered my friends car was in the body shop for over a month with out a battery and it started right up when I went with him to pick it up.

 

I took all of the harnesses from his car except the rear body harness and connected them exactly the way they were originally. I don't see why I should run into any problems.

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If the light is off when you turn the key then your okay I think. I hope it does work for you because that mean it will be alot easier for most people to do the swap.

 

Maybe the battery thing is not an issue I dunno, it certainly seems ridiculous to me as well. I wouldn't be surprised if it starts right up, your certainly have a bunch of wiring in there lol. Im surprised you left it all being concerned about weight, I think you have about 20lbs of extra stuff. I like the little nissan fuse boxes I would have liked to rewire one to work with just the ECU how I have it, but didn't want to mess with it.

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I'm always amazed at how fast you're completing things, I'm hoping you'll hav no trouble getting it started in the next few days. I would really like to do this with my 78's30. though I'm sure it wouldn't be as pretty.

 

I had a couple comments on your build tho. If you wanted to use fatter rubber mounts for your engine, how about putting somethign like this:

 

nmzcc.comimageshostedmount.jpg

 

Whereas the back is the frame rail, the cube in the center is a rubber mount (this would be angled ad needed for the engine mount surface, and the sides should triangulate into the frame rail) This should be as strong, and allow for larger rubber mounts. sorry my drawing is so crude.

 

I've heard people also use the pathfinder oil pan on these swaps. is there any reason other than $ that you decided to stick with the stock pan...

 

Lastly, do you mind if I ask how much you spent buying the engine et al from your buddy? that's the scary part, I've seen some serious price swings.

 

Phar

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Finished up my intake manifold this weekend. I wasn't happy how the welds turned out so I grinded them down and looked even worse. So I wrapped it in glass and it gave me the smooth finish I was looking for.

 

IMG_2384.JPG

 

IMG_2386.JPG

 

IMG_2387.JPG

 

Also, I think i'm going to bypass the oil cooler. There's a little coolant passage that runs through the oil filter mount and the outlet for the coolant points straight down at the ground. If the engine wasnt was close to the x-member and low to the ground I don't think this would have been an issue but, I think I just goint to ditch it for now and run a real oil cooler in the future.

 

IMG_2354.JPG

 

IMG_2355.JPG

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I see what your talking about now on the oil cooler, mine looks just like that.

 

That intake looks Killler, Love the wrinkle red and black together, that and the hidden intake looks really clean. Keep up the good work! Im definitly going to be doing some black powder coating once all the bugs are sorted on mine.

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