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Bad Break up(Resets,Grounding,Noise Problems)


jeffer949

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So can the flyback portion of the board be taken out?
If you set the PWM Current Limit to 100% then I don't think there would be anything gained by trying to modify the circuit. And in case you haven't already checked, make sure you have the PWM set to 100% since you have high Z injectors.

 

Now that I think about it, did you tell us which version of MS board you're using? v3? I just skimmed the posts but didn't find it right away.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I may of fixed it. Havent driven it that much yet but i drove it around the block with no resets. Normally it would of resetted like 30 times in that situation.

 

What i did was this

 

Since it is a MS1( the 40 pin CPU) you may be able to improve the disturbance margin by adding some capacitors

on to the CPU socket legs as close as possible .

Capacitor should be mylar or cermic, 0,1µf =>10 V and have lead module 2,5 or 5 mm.

 

Add caps as follows:

Pin 1 to Pin 2

Pin 6 to pin 2

Pin 19 to pin 20

EDIT by mobythevan, this last cap should be between 31 and 32, this has been verified

 

 

I got that from a post on msextra.com.

 

Has anybody ever heard of shorting out the power resistors for running High Z injectors? I think i want to try this also.

 

Well ill keep ya posted

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Glad to hear the caps are (so far) showing improvement. That would confirm it's a noise problem.

Has anybody ever heard of shorting out the power resistors for running High Z injectors? I think i want to try this also.

Not sure about this: if you're running high-z injectors then you don't need the resistors in the first place so yes, you can/should short them out (same as removing them). But I don't see how this would reduce noise in the system that contributes to your reset problem. In theory the resistors are limiting the current which should be reducing EMI. Still, it's worth a try - just be sure they really are high-z :?
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Are we talking about the same resistors? I'm referring to the ones that are in series with the injectors to limit current for non-PWM applications with low-z injectors. In this case the resistors are too large for the relay board and will be mounted elsewhere (not sure where they were on the 280z - perhaps someone else can chime in here). If you pulled your own wires from the relay board to the injectors then you don't have any resistors (unless you added them elsewhere).

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Ah, I vaguely remember there being an option in the assembly instructions. Since I don't remember clearly I'd suggest you go back through the instructions if someone else doesn't chime in.

 

But again, increasing current flow through the injectors is more likely to increase EMI than to reduce it.

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Ok I did a mod that got my voltage to be compleatly flat!!! It is spectacular. I did a 8 min data log and my voltage only went up and down .7 volts. Its on this page.

http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=285&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&sid=f34d645f34003cd4f1ecb13594549e36&start=10

 

I havent seperated the grounds yet but I did the mod where you cut the line trace to R3. I suggest this mod to EVERONE. Its amazing how steady my voltage is.

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  • 1 month later...

Its been running better but it's been messing up and getting what i think are resets(I say think because my laptop got stolen so i cant be for sure) Not nearly as many as i used to get. Some days it wont have any but then the next it will be back.

 

I still haven't separated the grounds yet. I just started working this past week again so ill have some more money to throw at it. Im fighting a charging problem right now so thats taking priority. I may say screw it and order a new MS. Ive read that the 3.47 board has the ground issues cleared up. We will see. Will probably be a few weeks till I get to that point yet. I thought of something else the other day also. Its that my MSD box and my MS box are both getting there switched power from the same point. So im thinking that maybe the MSD box is backfeeding into the MS somehow. So im going to try to move my switched power to another location for my MS relay board.

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We worked on my friends truck today and I think it is fixed. All the caps had been added as noted earlier in this thread (also notice that I added a bold note because I think one cap was listed wrong). He was still getting resets, but what we found is that they were related to low battery voltage. The PO had wired the cooling fan to run all the time so it was always draining the battery after being parked until it pulled down the coolant temps. We put a relay so it only runs when the truck is running and re-charged the battery. It runs great now. We will see if he gets any more resets in the next few weeks. I think it was a combination of adding caps and having a charged battery in his case.

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Well Im going to call this one licked. It was my damn MSD 6A. I took it out and it was gone. I had it wired up so the it was getting its switched power from the same source as my MegaSquirt. So IDK if i could of changed that and it would of worked but I took it out and I havent had a noticable reset since. I did also make a new fuel injector injector wiring harness but i dont think that had anything to do with it.

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Interesting that you solved the issue by removing the MSD 6A. I run with one too (6AL, but basically the same box). I very much doubt changing where you switched the power would make a difference. In a closed system such as a car, that really only matters for devices that have very small signals, such as O2 sensors.

 

I've been thinking of removing mine as well. I originally installed it when I ran triple webers and thought the multiple spark would help at idle and also liked the idea of a protective rev limiter to prevent damage if I missed a shift at the track. But with MS I get a rev limiter and I don't think multiple spark really made any difference. And getting rid of the box (and the noisy tach converter) would probably improve reliability as well. Hmmmm....

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry i didn't explain enough as it is topic related. im having rfi issues and need a resistor plug so i was searching and found this post which describes some of my issues and im just trying to hunt it down.

 

EDITED by mobythevan:question was where do you get your br8 plugs from and I am concerned about 5/8 vs 13/16

 

Answer: Autozone or http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp?KID=2521&gclid=CL63mrLxz5gCFQNbxwodWT3W1A

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Im going to burn this effing ecu!!!! Its back it reset like 5 times where i had to turn my ignition switch off and then back on again. I think it may have something to do with the pullup resistor but im not sure. Ill keep ya posted

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