drmiller100 Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Grumpy, Last night it did this fir the first time, when I started it and it sounded like a dead cylinder, stuck valve or something of that nature in sound. I put it in gear and slowly drove it in the lot and it just smoothed out and went away. Mike don't mean to be nosy, but does the engine actually miss? I've heard leaky exhausts that come and go. I've also seen plug wires come and go, especially with changes in humidity. sometimes lifters will leak down when engine is off, but pump right up on start up. Rhoades lifters were famous for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmiller100 Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 If those peanut port heads flow decent which they should after some port and bowl clean up, they will be just fine for your intended application,but ID strongly suggest adding better valve springs that allow a .575 lift flat tap hydralic cam, the only decent intake matching that application is made by wieand http://www.holley.com/8017.asp youll want a cam designed for max tq in the 3500-4500 rpm range like a this and those better valve springs http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=01241&x=18&y=2 youll want a 1 3/4" primary full length header youll have a hard time getting 400hp at only 4500rpm, but youll have a decent tq curve and run cheap gas, my engine software makes its wild guess at 385hp/505 ft lbs with a 650 holley and open headers with a 18"long 2.5" dia, header collector, on that 9:1 cpr 454 assuming your flow rates on the heads are about 8%-10% better than stock Hey Grumpy, Thank you. I'll get busy and order that intake manifold. The guy who did the heads put valve springs in it for a big torque cam,and he said they are fine for .575 lift. I don't know squat about cams, but while waiting for you to get back to me, I was looking at this cam. XM270H COMP CAMS 11-236-4 CHEVY 396-454 XTREME MARINE XM270H CAM, Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 270/286, Lift .544/.547, Chevy, Big Block, Chevy 396-454 I'm going to be hurting on the exhaust as I have to run marine exhaust, which I am told really suck. Thanks again for your advice, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustard-z Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Hey Grumpy, We are in the process of converting our FP autox car from a modded L6 to a mild 350/T56 setup. Obviously there is tons of info for the conversion but what I am looking for is help on the motor. Our current plan takes a 4 bolt crate motor and we have bored it .030 over and are putting stock vortec heads on it, all the bottom end is stock and has been magged and balanced. Basically we are mirroring the Chevy Hi Performance article you have posted. We have been torn between the performer RPM airgap and the non-airgap model intakes. Also, we have decided at this point to keep standard rockers and and pick a cam that allows us not to have to rework the fresh heads which have not been machined from stock. Do you have a recommendation for the the intake and cam that we should look at? This will most likely be mated to an Edelbrock 750. We are looking to keep the plenty of space for growth in the future, while still maintain a healthy upgrade from the L6. We are shooting for 250-300hp from the motor right now. Autox cars tend to benefit from torque more that HP but excessive torque could make it difficult to handle. We don't expect this setup to have excessive torque but our main goal with this car is to maintain a solid balance between power and suspension. The car suspension is worked and will have no problem handling the V8. We have a 3.54 rear gear layining around to start with. Is this a good starting point? What rear gear should we be looking at to get a good match to the cam? The tranny is a stock '95 T56, thanks to Ron T! The reason for the T56 is that we hope to do some track stuff with this car as well. Thanks for all the help! Aren/Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 interesting question, ok, stock vortec heads will limit you to about .475 lift and about a 5500-6000rpm power peak thier 173cc ports are designed for mid range tq. and the port design won,t work correctly with the higher port enterance, matched with the lower intake port routing on the standard intakes.(I DIDN,T SAY IT WON,T BOLT UP AND FUNCTION, ONLY THAT ITS FAR FROM IDEAL), youll want a cam that maximizes the mid rpm tq, but since you won,t be exeeding 6000rpm, so the hydralic cams are fine, something like this should work since its a manual trans Chevrolet Performance Camshaft; Part Number SH3224 http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/ChevroletSBcams2.html http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=401&p=698#p698 GET THIS INTAKE MANIFOLD, (below) its designed for the vortec heads(unlike the standard intake and vortec heads in this picture above) http://www.jegs.com/i/Weiand/925/8121/10002/-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUMPZ Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Thanks for the brake info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 don't mean to be nosy, but does the engine actually miss? I've heard leaky exhausts that come and go. I've also seen plug wires come and go, especially with changes in humidity. sometimes lifters will leak down when engine is off, but pump right up on start up. Rhoades lifters were famous for this. No exhaust leak, I know that sound/issue. I have checked plugs, wires, carb, the lifters have very little mileage on them but even Comp Hydr. roller lifters can go bad. Tomorrow I will take a long look at the roller rockers, push rods, springs, keepers, etc... If they check out then I will have to pull the damn intake for the tenth time it seems,had sealing issues with that a while back. This set up has been good to me up until the last 6 months. I am suppose to go to test n tune on saturday to try to get her a 9 second time slip so I had better hurry up and find the problem before it really rears it's ugly face at 6-7k rpm's. Maybe she will hold up if not It just maybe time to look into a 6-7 liter LSX based build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 ok so ive beennlooking for kits and such for building my motor like basic rebuild kits. cept ive come onto the problem of what year is my block. my casting number is 14010207 i think enless what the guy i bought it from showered me the wrong thing. could you tell me the year based off the casting number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 my casting number is 14010207 i think enless what the guy i bought it from showered me the wrong thing. could you tell me the year based off the casting number? Wait, the number has 8 digits? Are you looking at a number cast into the block? The number you want is the one stamped into the block, on the passenger side near the transmission bellhousing. It'll be L24-_______ and the serial number should only be 6 digits long. For a '73 240Z the serial number would be roughly between 120,000 and 170,000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds240z Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 got a ? i built a 81 280zxt motor f54 block and p90 head for my 73 240z. bottom end is all stock head ported and installed a stage 3 cam from msa. running triple webers. i have a bad lifter noise. at least i think. its not all the time. initial start up no noise. warming up at about 1500 rpm noise appears about 1min 1/2 later. no noise at idle. if rev it a little it make the noise when release the throttle. noise is at low rpm only. you can red line this thing and no noise. what so you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds240z Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 sorry, realized this is a chevy tech board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Here's a question for you. Not too technical. I have been fitting a 280Z tank into my 240Z, The tank has a 3" deep sump. Ground clearance is the problem I think I might have, The car has been lowered a couple of inches I am told. Right now it is up on Jack stands which I believe is a rise of 9". Measuring from the bottom of the sump to the floor I have 15" minus the 9" rise that leaves me only 6" once the car is back on the ground. Now I know alot of people use these sumps for racing and what not but does this sound workable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-rib-73-240z Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Wait, the number has 8 digits? Are you looking at a number cast into the block? The number you want is the one stamped into the block, on the passenger side near the transmission bellhousing. It'll be L24-_______ and the serial number should only be 6 digits long. For a '73 240Z the serial number would be roughly between 120,000 and 170,000. sorry, my mom was rushing me off MY computer to do w/e she wanted. Its a sbc 350 i bought from a friends friend who had it ina garage at a friends for storage, they couldnt remember the year was an 80 something camaro they said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJBrian Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 sorry, my mom was rushing me off MY computer to do w/e she wanted. Its a sbc 350 i bought from a friends friend who had it ina garage at a friends for storage, they couldnt remember the year was an 80 something camaro they said. I can look in a book I got when I get home from work tonite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Any opinions on the following engine? Going to check it out tomorrow and I think I'll be able to walk away with it for $750 Most likely going in my '69 camaro, but might end up in my 240z this summer stamped 302/350 industural high performance high comp. fully built and balanced/blue printed +30 over block forged piston I beam rods Fully built 2.02 heads built triple valve springs with comp roller rockers ported and polished comp cam /comp push rods 305 duration comp cam forged crank arp everything moroso oil pump edelbrock carb and edelbrock victor high rise mach power pullies msd dist. msd pick up and coil ran a 11sec in a 85 camaro with 3.23 gears and open diff with built TH350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJBrian Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Hey Grumpy, I'm almost done with my 350 which is similar to this one. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0511phr_vortec/index.html I have 2 questions about spark plugs. 1. Which brand and heat range do you recommend? Autolite AR103 like in the article? 2. In the ac-delco catalog we have at work it recommends a .060 gap for the 96-99 chevy pickup (what my heads came off of). Is .060 too much or OK for a MSD HEI dist. ? My setup is a 350 .060 over around 9.5 compression vortec heads with 1.5 rockers comp 270H cam msd hei edelbrock performer rpm air gap 6spd manual trans and 3.90 rear end. Thanks Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I have two questions for anyone that can answer them for me. 1. If it takes 10 lbs of black powder stuffed up the backside of a bull to blow its horns off, how hard does a chicken have to fart to break a 2X4? 2. What did fish smell like before women started swimming? I can't seem to find anyone who can answer these questions and it's driving me nuts....... ***disclaimer**** I should rarely be taken seriously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Its a sbc 350 i bought from a friends friend who had it ina garage at a friends for storage, they couldnt remember the year was an 80 something camaro they said. Doh, sorry G-rib-73-240Z, I mistook your setup for someone else's with an L6, not a SBC. Disregard my previous comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJBrian Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 All my book says is 14010207 is a 80-85 350 and it could be a 2 or 4 bolt main block. http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/casting.html ok so ive beennlooking for kits and such for building my motor like basic rebuild kits. cept ive come onto the problem of what year is my block. my casting number is 14010207 i think enless what the guy i bought it from showered me the wrong thing. could you tell me the year based off the casting number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Hey Grumpy, I'm almost done with my 350 which is similar to this one. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0511phr_vortec/index.html I have 2 questions about spark plugs. 1. Which brand and heat range do you recommend? Autolite AR103 like in the article? 2. In the ac-delco catalog we have at work it recommends a .060 gap for the 96-99 chevy pickup (what my heads came off of). Is .060 too much or OK for a MSD HEI dist. ? My setup is a 350 .060 over around 9.5 compression vortec heads with 1.5 rockers comp 270H cam msd hei edelbrock performer rpm air gap 6spd manual trans and 3.90 rear end. Thanks Brian I prefer NGK, and AC plugs and IVE nevers seen any plug run at .060 as well as it will at .045 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Any opinions on the following engine?Going to check it out tomorrow and I think I'll be able to walk away with it for $750 Most likely going in my '69 camaro, but might end up in my 240z this summer check it out very carefully, it sounds like theres at least $750 in parts, but since your not listing much detailed info and you don,t know its true current condition internally or if the guys telling you the truth ID sure want to at least look it over, hear it run or pull the valve covers and oil pan and inspect it clsely before throwing the guy my $750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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