post me some questions

[attworth]

I've got a good one for you. Having a hard time identifying a motor I may pick up today. Casting number is 14010203. All I know is it's an 82-85 305. Can't seem to find any information pertaining to the pistons. I'm trying to figure out if it's got flat-tops or not.

 

Edit - Found my answer, the owner sent me a picture. They are dished.

 

Just for grins, since I don't have the motor yet, any idea what cc those pistons may be?

[grumpyvette]

The motor ive got is a sbc 327 with 9.5-1 comp, forged pistons, I beam rods, forged crank, double hump heads, performer rpm manifold, holley 4160 ~600cfm carb, full msd ign. The cam is unknown because he lost the build specs and dosnt recall whats in the engine. It came out of a frieds chevelle after about a year of very light use then he converted the car to a ls1/4l60e to be faster and more reliable on the street.

 

My z is going to be a street/strip car and i am hoping to run in the low-mid 12's if not faster on just the motor. The engine is backed to a tremec t56 out of a lt1 camaro and the rear end ratio is gonig to be a 3.7 or 3.9 ratio once i find one. The engine right now will not run that fast i konw for sure because the 3800lb chevelle ran a 14.48 at 97mph with a th350, 2300 stall, 3.73 posi and no tire spin but ran out of gear before the 1000 foot mark.

 

What cam would you suggest to use to run the lower end of a 12sec pass or faster?

 

do you want a solid lifter flat tappet (WHICH ID SUGGEST) that will produce a good deal of power but have a lopey idle, can you deal with a solid lifter config?if so Id try this

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00350&x=59&y=7

[grumpyvette]

14010203...305...80-85...2 bolt mains

 

not sure on the pistons but cpr around 8.5:1 was comon at that time

Edited April 8, 2009 by grumpyvette

[jay260z]

Ive never messed with solid cams in cars before, how often do the valves need adjustment under weekend street use? What would a good hydralic cam be?

[grumpyvette]

Ive never messed with solid cams in cars before, how often do the valves need adjustment under weekend street use? What would a good hydralic cam be?

 

once youve got a decent solid lifter cam correctly adjusted you generally won,t need any further adjustments for several months of street driving, the solid lifter cams are very easy to work with once you develope the skills and easily add an additional 600-1000 extra rpm, making them well woth the minor extra work.

 

heres a similar hydralic

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00273&x=48&y=2

 

either will work in your application but why cheat yourself out of the extra rpm range, remember the objects to get the car faster with more responsive easily accessable torque and a decent torque curve not necessarly just higher peak hp.

Edited April 9, 2009 by grumpyvette

[mossy74]

I'm restoring my SBC 240z at the moment and was looking at getting the brake and fuel lines restored and I noticed the fuel return line was cut and clamped off, is this normal?

[attworth]

14010203...305...80-85...2 bolt mains

 

not sure on the pistons but cpr around 8.5:1 was comon at that time

 

I believe you are correct about the 8.5:1.

 

I do have another question regarding heads for the motor. I've been researching good builds for the 305, and this one - http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/0667_phrs_305_chevy_engine_blocks/index.html - by Popular Hot Rodding seems pretty solid. They used these heads - http://www.shaverengines.com/EQLIGHTNING.html - which from what I can tell are just Alum. Vortech's with specific specifications. They used the 180cc heads for this particular application. (not sure on the exhaust port, can't seem to find that anywhere.)

 

The heads I have are 416 castings. (1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers, 165/59cc ports)I guess I'll note the obvious, the Vortech heads have .1" larger intake valves, and slightly larger ports. Are those minor differences truly worth the ~1000$ price-tag? Or is there something magical about the Vortech style heads that I'm missing? I wish the guys at PHR did a direct comparison between the two heads.

 

The heads I have are really clean, and I wouldn't mind using them - if they're not going to choke down any hopes of making some decent power.

 

Any thoughts?

[jay260z]

What is a general peak rpm that will be safe to turn with the rods that are in the enigne. The last thing i want to do is throw a rod and ruin the entire engine. On crowers web side the cam makes power form 2000-6000k and has a red line around 7k, i know that the motor will not run at those exact numbers its just a general range but will the rods be safe to around 6500 if needed?

[grumpyvette]

What is a general peak rpm that will be safe to turn with the rods that are in the enigne. The last thing i want to do is throw a rod and ruin the entire engine. On crowers web side the cam makes power form 2000-6000k and has a red line around 7k, i know that the motor will not run at those exact numbers its just a general range but will the rods be safe to around 6500 if needed?

 

 

stock rods are generally safe for brief periods at 4000 fpm of piston speed, on a 350 thats about 6700rpm, on a 383 thats about 6400rpm, IE, just before you shift the engine reaches that rpm level for an instant, it doesn,t mean you can safely buzz the engine in first gear at that rpm level traveling down the freeway and not expect to throw a rod!

and hydraulic lifters usually get into valve float in a stock valve train config, at or below 6200rpm, so keep that in mind if you go the hydraulic lifter route

the hydraulic cam makes its best power in the 3500rpm-5800rpm band the solid lifter cam adds an additional 500-600rpm MINIMUM, but the heads, intake, headers etc will effect results also

Edited April 9, 2009 by grumpyvette

[jay260z]

understand 100%

[74660z]

I have a few questions for you, Grumpy...

 

I have heard a few things about chevy main bearing caps. Maybe you can help me separate the BS from the facts.

 

I've been told that factory 4-bolt mains are only marginally stronger (~7-8%) than two bolts and that aftermarket splayed-bolt caps on a two bolt block are ~25-30% stronger. Is this true?

 

Also there is alot of conflicting info on the 400 sbc. Some claim the webbing is too weak for the extra holes on a 4-bolt and therefore, 2-bolt 400s are stronger. Is this true? And if it is, does it apply to adding splayed bolt caps to a 400? Should I abandon the 400 for a 350? I was told this engine is a '73 and it is a 2-bolter.

 

I have the motor out of my car (400/t56/3.90) and have been contemplating aftermarket rods and forged pistons, in anticipation of turbocharging it in the future. (I am blaming my insanity on PaulR and Turbomeister.)

 

I have no specific horsepower goals. I was thinking (hoping?) for 500ish hp and 600ish lb/ft. Basically, I do want to be able to bust 'em loose at 60mph.

 

Also any thoughts on factory steel 400 cranks? (trash? keep? test?)

 

Or on power expectations for a N/A 400 with only 8-8.5 compression? (smog heads and TPI. My plans are megasquirt, then better heads, then turbos. (Oh yea, insert; Buy winning lotto ticket between heads and turbos...hence my curiosity about the low CR. It is 9.8:1 now.)

 

Oh, and a better intake and EDIS, after I master megasquirt.

 

Thanks, Eric

[280Zone]

Grumpy, I got the previous head question answered and now have a new one.

 

I am about to swap in this engine into my Z

 

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?hid=026DK73488&trk=12

 

I am running a slightly built (shift kit only) turbo 350 trans and the R200 3:54 rear end.

 

My goal is streetable car that will turn low 12's in the quarter. What would be your recommendation for the stall speed of the torque converter?

 

Thanks in advance for your insight.

[grumpyvette]

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?hid=026DK73488&trk=12

 

if your refering to the 502 big block engine that I think you are ID be looking for a 2800rpm-3000rpm stall converter, now for the guys reading this not familiar with converter stall speeds that in no way means the car won,t move untill the cars engine reaches 2800rpm any more than your stock stall converer rated at 1900-2200rpm in most cars prevents the car from smoothly pulling into traffic at 1500-1600rpm, it simply means that if you run street tires,and put your left foot on the brake and stomp your right foot to the floor the engines likely to reach about 2700rpm rather quickly before the tires turn into smoke, while a stock converter would start smoking the tires at about 2200rpm, but the differance is in the power you can instantly apply if youve got decent traction, lets just use my current vettes dyno curve as a quick example(IT WAS HANDY)

 

a stock converter would allow you to launch at about 100 hp lower on the power curve than a 3000rpm stall converter, and make idling in tracffic miserable if you use a more radical cam while the 3000rpm stall makes things work far smoother

 

IF your building a street/strip engine combo with over 500 ft lbs and a cam suitable for the 2700rpm-6500rpm power band that most street strip combos fall into,ID SUGGEST a

 

Precision Industries , Vigilante with a 2800rpm-3000rpm stall speed

 

http://www.converter.com/vigilante.htm

 

talk to these guys , get thier advice and follow it, I know from experiance they know how to build a decent converter, Ive seen several in use with no failures, keep in mind youll (NEED)to install a very effective trans cooler and a 3.54-3.73 rear gear in most cases to work correctly(YOUR 3.54:1 will work fine)

Edited April 12, 2009 by grumpyvette

[280Zone]

Link should have go to this part number. CT350PC1

 

I'll start with reading the vigilante link, thanks

[grumpyvette]

CT350PC1

would do fine with the same 2800rpm-3000 stall with the listed cam OR with a slightly larger cam if your looking to run 12 second runs ,

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00403&x=15&y=3

 

 

if you keep the same cam its listed with youll do better on the street with a slightly lower 2500rpm-2700rpm stall,to take full advantage of the off idle tq because of the current factory cam will be more designed for street than a strip power curve and youll be at a distinct disadvantage as far as peak power curve,at the strip, and getting the car easily into the 12 second range, compared to the slightly larger duration cam, just swapping cams should boost peak useable power enought to make a noticable differance, but youll want to verify clearances and talk to the torque converter guys and crower tech guys befor making changes

Edited April 13, 2009 by grumpyvette

[74660z]

Ignored.

 

Were those considered stupid questions? ...or what?

[grumpyvette]

YOUR NOT BEING IGNORED I simply missed your post SORRY!

 

 

I have a few questions for you, Grumpy...

 

I have heard a few things about chevy main bearing caps. Maybe you can help me separate the BS from the facts.

 

I've been told that factory 4-bolt mains are only marginally stronger (~7-8%) than two bolts and that aftermarket splayed-bolt caps on a two bolt block are ~25-30% stronger. Is this true?

 

that depends on the block and use of bolts and main cap studs etc, but generally Id say that the 4 bolt mains are slightly stronger, than an additional(~7-8%) and you don,t gain a full ~25-30% additional strength from simply adding splayed main caps,to a stock production block, either, you gain an easy 5%-7% plus swaping to ARP main cap studs on a two bolt block or 4 bolt block over the factory bolts, and Id say an additional 10% more with splayed main caps but the more I race the less faith I have in those mods on stock blocks and the more IM inclined to suggest an aftermarker BRODIX,DART, OR WP block with thier far thicker main cap webs and decks and cylinder walls, once you think youll regularly exceed about 450-500 ft lbs of tq or 6000rpm

 

Also there is alot of conflicting info on the 400 sbc. Some claim the webbing is too weak for the extra holes on a 4-bolt and therefore, 2-bolt 400s are stronger. Is this true? And if it is, does it apply to adding splayed bolt caps to a 400? Should I abandon the 400 for a 350? I was told this engine is a '73 and it is a 2-bolter.

most guys add ARP main studs to 400 2 bolt blocks or add splayed main caps I don,t see many guys add or use standard 4 bolt main caps on stock 400 castings

 

I have the motor out of my car (400/t56/3.90) and have been contemplating aftermarket rods and forged pistons, in anticipation of turbocharging it in the future. (I am blaming my insanity on PaulR and Turbomeister.)

 

I have no specific horsepower goals. I was thinking (hoping?) for 500ish hp and 600ish lb/ft. Basically, I do want to be able to bust 'em loose at 60mph.

 

Also any thoughts on factory steel 400 cranks? (trash? keep? test?)

Id suggest a scat 4340 forged steel crank and a ballanced rotating assembly with 5.7" rods with 7/16" arp rod bolts and forged pistons, anything less on a 600hp plus turbo combo and your pushing the limits, yes IM very aware the stock 350-400 sbc can and frequently iss pushed and survives at that hp level, that doesn,t make it smart long term

 

Or on power expectations for a N/A 400 with only 8-8.5 compression? (smog heads and TPI. My plans are megasquirt, then better heads, then turbos. (Oh yea, insert; Buy winning lotto ticket between heads and turbos...hence my curiosity about the low CR. It is 9.8:1 now.)

 

Oh, and a better intake and EDIS, after I master megasquirt.

 

Thanks, Eric

 

 

call me, youll find the ph# in a pm

Edited April 13, 2009 by grumpyvette

[rsicard]

Grumpy: I am building a 1-piece rear seal SBC 350 stroked to a 383. The main bearing caps have already been line honed and ARP studs installed. I have been nagged by thoughts about using a 4 bolt main block with a 1-piece seal instead. I have purchased AFR 195 CNC heads and all the bottom end is forged. Will use a GM Hot Cam after closely investigating Compcams Web site. This should get good torque. Question, is the 4 bolt main block SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than the 2 bolt block? Was planning a more aggressive camshaft in an attempt to get 500Hp and 500Ft/Lbs of torque. With the hot cam not likely to achieve these numbers. Is the two bolt block up to the task with these items installed? Hopefully only intermittently going to push 400+ HP and Torque. The block has been shaved for 0.005" top of piston in block and planning 0.028 GM head gasket for good quench/squish. Am planning to ceramic coat the combustion space in the heads, exhaust ports and backside of tops of valves to reduce detonation and carbon from sticking.

 

Would appreciate your comments to the questions and this scheme. Thanks.

[grumpyvette]

theres thousands of two bolt blocks with arp main studs running peak hp numbers near 500hp, so your unlikely to have major issues on a street/strip combo simply because the stress is maximized at high rpms, and you spend most of your time at lower rpms and stress levels and main caps don,t tend to walk around on the block much below 450 ft lbs and 6000 rpm levels, since youve already put significant time and money in the current block and your not intending to put consistantly high stress like a dirt track circle track engine sees Id just use the current block with few worries UNTILL you upgrade the components to regularly exceed the 500hp level, where it will become adviseable to upgrade, I would not be really overly concerned , occasional peak power runs on a street strip cars engine do far less total stress to the rotating assembly and block than constant stress like a circle track engine sees

read thru this link

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=636&p=850#p850

Edited April 13, 2009 by grumpyvette

[attworth]

Grumpy -

 

When milling a head, how is the slack taken up in the push rods? Are custom rods necessary? How much milling is safe with whichever rods are recommended by a cam manufacturer?