Kirby260 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 So are we going to see an install this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted November 29, 2008 Author Share Posted November 29, 2008 So are we going to see an install this weekend? no, the install will happen over the next month or two-as weather in my unheated northeast garage will allow. we peaked today at 40 degrees F. that means i can spend about 20-30min or so before the old hands don't work as effectively as they should. update on the kit-bajaracer's machinest told him the brackets would not rust. and they do, so all brackets will now be plated. so, off to the plater my brackets will go once i've test fitted them. gotta order my brake pads still. took the calipers to the parts store today to test fit their 'store brand' pads. the pads i like to run are 'no return' and i wanted to confirm correct fitment. 05-07 mustang gt, 07-08 mustang gt500 & shelby. looks like the spot where the e-brake cable splits [above the nose of the diff] will need to be moved a tad-to allow a bit more length at the caliper. brackets are top notch and look like they'll stand up to just about anything. calipers are nice as well-nothing like brand new [not reman's!]. i'll post updates as i progress. as of now, just pulled apart the Left side-dont even have the 240sx caliper detached from the line yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 ...looks like the spot where the e-brake cable splits [above the nose of the diff] will need to be moved a tad-to allow a bit more length at the caliper. ... I don't know if it will work on this kit, but on other brake swaps using the right cable on the left side and vice versa prevents the need for any brake cable modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 1 Tuff Z I just ordered my brake kit from Edan. You mentioned that the e brake cables would have to be moved. Do you mean moving the e brake hanger springs to give more slack in the cable? Also, have you looked at how the e brake cable is connected to the caliper. Edan mentioned that there is a e brake bracket (?) that has to be reused/moved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 1 Tuff Z I just ordered my brake kit from Edan. You mentioned that the e brake cables would have to be moved. Do you mean moving the e brake hanger springs to give more slack in the cable? Also, have you looked at how the e brake cable is connected to the caliper. Edan mentioned that there is a e brake bracket (?) that has to be reused/moved. moving the cables, i probably should have described it better and said move the springs to give more slack. thanks for bringing that to my attention. i have not done anything else yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted December 31, 2008 Author Share Posted December 31, 2008 more pics. 1st is of the rotor & caliper initial mounting. 2nd/3rd are comparison of the pads [240sx vs. silvermine/mustang]. pads: roughly same contact size but as they wear the mustang pad will have the greater contact patch. also, the mustang pad is thicker and easier to install. still have to get the adaptor brackets plated, get the e-brake mount finished, etc, etc... rotor & caliper mounted pad comparo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 I have the same set up from Silvermine, but haven't installed yet. Do you see any problems with the installation yet? Also, will you be installing a proportioning valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted December 31, 2008 Author Share Posted December 31, 2008 I have the same set up from Silvermine, but haven't installed yet. Do you see any problems with the installation yet? Also, will you be installing a proportioning valve? miles, i am going to install a prop valve. the only challenge i see at this time is that i'm running different halfshafts and the adaptor that connects them to the companion flange / stub axle looks like it may interfere with the e-brake cable. i'm working with edan [bajaracer] on this. when did you purchase your kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 I purchased my kit from Edan about two months ago. I am going to order some non-drilled non-slotted rotors from Edan since my car will be a daily driver and I don't want to be eating up pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 I purchased my kit from Edan about two months ago. I am going to order some non-drilled non-slotted rotors from Edan since my car will be a daily driver and I don't want to be eating up pads. do you have the rotors or need to order them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 I have the drilled & slotted rotors that came with Edan's kit, but prefer plane rotors so as not to eat up pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 David Have you installed the Silvermine kit yet? I'd like to get your comments on the install. I have been busy getting ready to do the v8 swap into my 240Z and so have put the brake upgrade on the back burner for now. Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 miles & all, couple of challanges. i received my rotors and they had been drilled [for studs] same diameter as the mustang-larger than for our z cars. this resulted in the rotor 'hanging' and not centered [there is no hub to center them as the opening of the rotor is too large for it to be hub centric. i called edan [bajaracer], explained the issue and he quickly corrected it for me=new rotors as well as all rotors going forward will be drilled for the z stud diameter. second, since i am not running stock half shafts the ebrake mount on the mustang caliper interferes with the adaptor which i use to marry my q45 axles to the 280z companion flange. i'm working with a friend of mine whom is a cnc machinest [ztek.mfg, if you have seen his products on fleabay] on a work around for this. as i have been freezing my assets off and our local weather has not been conducive to working in an unheated garage-it is taking a bit longer than i would like. once i have the upgrade completed and am confident it works properly i will post; write up on the 'how to', pics and how to get the adaptor ztek is making for this adaptation. i want to be certain the mount works and it provides the proper clearance for ebrake cable from other interferences. what it involves is trimming the existing ebrake bracket, welding on an adaptor then give it a bit of paint or plating or powercoat and voila. i anticipate the cnc brackets [1 for each side] will be relatively inexpensive and pretty straight forward to weld/attach. after all, this is hybridz-and we are the innovators not imitators! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 David The rotors I received from Edan were also drilled for a Mustang. I called Edan and he echanged them with rotors drilled for the 240z lugs. It bothers me a little that the rotors are not hub centric. Miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 i am no expert by any means but personally, i don't have a concern with the lack of hubcentricity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 David, Maybe this is heresy but why not put the proportioning valve in the front brake line? I understand your problem as I'm running 12.2" vented Willwood superlights in the front and the same 240SX set-up in the rear - with similar results. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 bill, all the reading i have done-both from the hbz braintrust as well as some brake manufacture websites state clearly that you do not want to run a prop valve between the master and front brakes. due to the fact that i am not an engineer i don't understand why but have to take what those who know are stating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Do a simple mind experiment: let's assume you put the prop valve in the front brake circuit. Then imagine you're at high speed and need to brake hard. As you press harder on the brake pedal, the pressure in the front and rear circuits begin to rise. Weight transfers forward putting more load on the front tires and less on the rears. But at some point (determined by the setting of the prop valve) the pressure in the front circuit begins to rise more slowly than the rear. Think about what's happening here: you're taking braking AWAY from the front end where there's the most braking capability. This more or less ensures that the rear brakes will lock up first, which is exactly the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish. Like others have said, prop valves only go in the rear brake circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 edan has worked on a brake stimulus package-for us hbzr's. here's the link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144471 update on mine. got the adapter bracket prototype finished and have completed the modification of where the ebrake mounts to the caliper bracket. tomorrow or monday i'll beadblast the bracket and have the adapter welded. once that is done i can mount it to the car and...hope that it works. pics, this shows interference between ebrake cable bracket and q45 halfshaft to stub axle adaptor next shows how i trimmed the oe bracket 'ear' [next to the unmodd'd bracket] in prep for the adaptation to follow... now onto the mocked up pic, shows the cable mounted to adaptor... the adaptor is steel and will be welded to the modified oe bracket. i had to enlarge the bracket to allow the ebrake sheath to properly seat into the spot. adaptor hole is same as the oe bracket that i pulled from the bottom of the strut for the original drum brakes. i wanted it to 'clamp' in place properly using the oe 'c' clip. i'll post pics next week when it's together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 got the adapter welded in place, tested and it seems to work fine. had to create an "s" bend in the bracket the cable 'pulls on' to align better with the cable. the 2nd pic shows the orientation. showing unmodded vs. modded. showing cable attached to bracket and end to the actuator now to duplicate the same on the other side, get the naked parts plated, put it all together and then [after the roads are salt free again] test the new setup. i've also got to order the brake pads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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