strokerzedd Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 I'm getting closer to the end of my RB26 install into a '72 240z. With aftermarket turbos/cams/pistons/rods/porting etc but retaining the stock intake manifold, what vacuum lines etc don't I have to put back on the car? Are there emissions/cooling/vacuum lines etc that are redundant? I thought that I took lots of pictures upon disassembly 2 years ago, but not enough as I've discovered! I've perused the manuals and collected upwards of 1000 photos from the various forums that have helped a lot but I haven't found a thread that deals specifically with what you can leave off. In the photos below there's a picture of my second generation tanny mount that I hope will help in installing a 3" exhaust pipe as well as my new gauge cluster. The dash cap that I had to glue on wouldn't allow me to take the stock speedo or tach out from the front and so with great trepidation I took the dash out and cut it up. I canvassed our local wrecking yard and brought home several Japanese car gauge pods and put this one together. Now the whole plate comes out with 4 screws and has made the rewiring process so much easier. I still incorporated signal light arrows and a bright light indicator. I took lots of construction photos if anyone is interested. This forum has been so much help with wiring, engine and tranny mount guidance, I plan on assembling a site detailing every stage of my construction. I stole many an idea from the various photos that I found but also found that there was rarely enough detail in the photos, I hope to rectify that. I'd like to thank Stony, Sean Morris, Eric Hsu, and the countless others that contribute to these forums, it all makes this transplant less painful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 that's nice work,especially like the fuel delivery setup,very neat unfortunately can't help with the question but would like to know myself maybe mike rowe will pitch in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 You can pretty much get rid of everything if your running a stand alone. I'm not running any stock vaccum lines or waterlines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 Stony, I've spent a lot of time looking at the photos of your cars in helping me decide how to build my car. You were able to leave the AAC and Air regulator and all of the vacuum/coolant lines off of the bottom of the intake manifold? Which coolant lines did you attach the firewall heater core lines to? What about the vacuum lines that run around both the back and front of the motor? Do you have any close up photos? I've included a few more of mine, some of them might help others. RB26-Part 12 Fit engine & gearbox.pdf R33 Trans_mounts.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Yea all my stuff is gone. the aac hold on the bottom was blocked off. all the coolant lines are plugged at the block .... i will see what kind of pics i have of it. I don't have the stock manifold so mine was pretty easy. a stock manifold will need lots of plugs. Here is a pic with the head off showing how i plugged (temp) teh water coming out of the block. Sorry not the best pics but like i said. all stock vacuum hard and soft lines were stripped off the motor and then when i needed something i drilled and tapped for a port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted January 2, 2009 Author Share Posted January 2, 2009 Thanks for the photos. It's a lot easier to work on without any sheetmetal. Years ago I added 2 1/4" square tubing within the existing unibody frame rails, extending it with rectangular tubing back to the diff and then extra metal around the strut towers and braced them as well. I remember being really nervous about relocating the suspension points and the crossbrace and hoping that it was all going to be square again! It was. The frame rails weren't rusted, I just wanted the chassis really stiff, the car handles like a slot car. My friends used to come and watch me braze. I'd broken my hand skiing and the cast and bandages kept catching fire while I brazed, but I just plunged it in a pail of water and kept brazing! Now does anyone else have any photos to offer of a less ambitious transplant possibly using the stock intake manifold and the resultant coolant and vacuum lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Well I am still in the process of putting mine back together but here is what I did to the vacuum block that runs on top of the stock manifold to remove the AAC (spider as I like to call it, from under the plenum) First image is how it used to look http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=171 And after some changes http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=175 As I will be running DCOE throttle bodies in NA config I have also blocked of the standard injector holes to move the injector location to the DCOE TB's for better fuel atomisation at the expense of economy/emissions which is why the OEM install as close to the head as possible. See here http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=177 As I am still not 100% sure if I run a power booster or dual MC setup I might use the blocked of centre top of the vacuum block to connect to the brake booster you can see the blank I have installed looking at this pic again http://nzeder.net/album_showpage.php?pic_id=175 I don't have a pic but I have also removed the vacuum lines that run from the intake side under the front cover to the other side of the engine. The water will be simple much like the old stock L26 (in my case) I will only have water going to my heater and back all overs will be blocked off or short circuited but by removing the AAC a lot of the mess does right there when using a standalone With regard to the water - you can assume I will have the radiator connected via the normal methods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted January 2, 2009 Author Share Posted January 2, 2009 I'm intrigued by what you're doing. Is this your idea or have you seen it somewhere else and if so, any pictures? So the whole AAC spider is in place to modulate the throttle and for emissions purposes and running a standalone ECU will provide all of the control we need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 StrokerZ, I see you have found my site as you've attached my Part 12 above relating to the gearbox mount. I am at the same stage as you with the vaccuum lines wondering where they all go. A friend of mine Warren, sent me a picture out of his R33 GTR Manual which shows where all the lines attach (Collector hoses). This is much better than the R32 GTR Manual I have. As I am going to be running Aircon etc I am not going to remove all the lines at present as vaious people have advised on complications if you are running all the normal components. I am using an Apexi Djetro computer so I am not sure what can go or not so will leave relatively standard although I have removed the AACC pump thingmy. If you want the sheet on weher the lines go let me know if I am not successful in adding it to this post. I will eventually write it all up on my website as well. A question for you - where do you intend to route your two aircleaners for the turbos? regards iCollector hoses.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I'm intrigued by what you're doing. Is this your idea or have you seen it somewhere else and if so, any pictures? So the whole AAC spider is in place to modulate the throttle and for emissions purposes and running a standalone ECU will provide all of the control we need?In my case yes as I am running NA (non turbo but I am sure you are smart enough to know that) so my control will be via temp (for cold start), MAP and TPS that is all nice and simple. So I used the Nissan FAST parts catalogue to work out were all the vacuum lines/water lines go given my engine (and spare RB26 head) were already removed from a car I used for reference - Then knowing what little I need for my NA setup I just started removing all of the vacuum stuff - I was not going to keep the vacuum block at all but then thought this would be a good place to get my map from. Re the idea - well I think all mine as I have not seen too many RB26DE at all with DCOE throttle bodies - so this is all new to me and searching on the interweb does not help with DE and DCOE on a RB engine - so I am taking the L28 triples that I know and what lines are required and then just applying that info the RB - this is working fine for the vacuum lines however it would be good to see an image of how the water flows through the RB's blocks and RB26 heads so I can work out what is the best solution when I start to look at the water lines. Again I am taking the KISS approach as without the turbo's a lot of stuff can go. I believe the AAC stuff is just idle control so with out it the setup will be much like a L28 with triples and no cold start chokes = just let it warm up etc then it will idle correctly. EDIT: Ok just done some more reading on the aac valve etc and it is a used to get air behind the throttle butterflies when the butterflies are fully closed or if more air is required for the given conditions. Now as my DCOE throttle bodies that I will be using already have an air bypass setup for setting the idle so none of this stuff will apply to me at all. So I might be different to what you guys are trying to do also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted January 3, 2009 Author Share Posted January 3, 2009 Mike, I didn't mean to download that file, but I have perused all of your build files and they helped me along the way. I'm just sorting out the air cleaner input and I think for now I'll have to get by with two conical air filters just behind the radiator and under the turbo air to intercooler pipe. I'll build an aluminum box/heat shield to force as much cold air as as possible from the lower hole in the rad support. I wanted to put the air filter in front of the rad support like I had with my 3.1 litre stroker but I ran out of room. It's a tight space. I just want to get the car running and then I'll look into new intake and turbo to intercooler piping. There are so many Z RB26 conversions out there I'm hoping more will share their photos and experience with removing the coolant/vacuum lines. NZeder, where did these dcoe's throttle bodies come from? Are they Webers? On my 3.1 litre my Weber 40 dcoe's weren't big enough and I had to change to 45 Mikuni's, big difference. A Z that got 13 mpg! I've enclosed more photos of the vacuum lines both on the block and the spider. Of the two connectors on the front of the intake manifold throttle plate there are two electrical connectors, the yellow one is the engine temp sensor. What's the other one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 NZeder, where did these dcoe's throttle bodies come from? Are they Webers? On my 3.1 litre my Weber 40 dcoe's weren't big enough and I had to change to 45 Mikuni's, big difference. A Z that got 13 mpg!I had 48 webers on my old L3.2 then swapped these to OER 47mm (nice carb the OER - just a new version of the SK which is an upgraded Mikuni) Anyway the TB's I am using are from Australia and are the Pro-Race version which are 50mm at the trumpet, 48mm at the butterfly and 45mm at the manifold end (this tapper will produce more HP ) they are from a company called Speed Technology trading as EFI Hardware. Check out my site if you want to see pics or check out EFI hardware site http://www.efihardware.com They have some nice kit, linkages, trumpets that carb guys might like too. That was a little off topic - I will see what I can find out about that other temp sensor by looking at the FAST parts catalogue for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Ok just checked FAST system I can find the part number but I can't for the life of me work out where it goes from there. Part number is 25080-89903 and it is just down as a temp sensor (we knew that already) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Have you guys looked at the gtr rb26 FSM??? every time i say take a look at it i get flamed for not being helpful enough. But that's what i used to do all the stuff you are doing. unfortunately its been over 5 years since i had all the stock stuff installed and i cant remember where all the lines go to save my life. here is a screen shot from one of the pages. if you want i can email you the entire PDF. it is a pretty good quality pdf not like most of the scans found on the internet. The guy that installed my HKS Vpro used it to wire everything up. Pm me your email and i will send it to you. I'm on a pretty slow wireless connection so it may take a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rowe Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Mike, I didn't mean to download that file, - no worries that's what they are for I'm just sorting out the air cleaner input - me too, I'll see what we come up with and post on my webpage & here Of the two connectors on the front of the intake manifold throttle plate there are two electrical connectors, the yellow one is the engine temp sensor. What's the other one? - the other little one next to it is the temp gauge sender - if your motor is an R32 it will run your standard temp gauge. The other yellow connector on the collector is another temp sensor for the ECU I think regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianz Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 I'm with Mike, I'm pretty sure the one if for a gauge and the other is for the ecu/ fan relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Ok just checked FAST system I can find the part number but I can't for the life of me work out where it goes from there. Part number is 25080-89903 and it is just down as a temp sensor (we knew that already) 89903 is the same sensor that getoffmyinternet has been testing in comparison to the 280z ones, and it's the same one that will drive the temp guage on the 280z as well. That is for the guage and not an ECU readout as far as I know. That is the temp sender, not the temp sensor. I also posted a pic of it in the same thread i mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uefa5 Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I would love to see more pics and info about your dash, ive been thinking about doing something similar any chance you could email me some pics and tell me what parts you used and what you got at the junkyard that day? Thanks man email is andrew@youngers.org Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 i stickied some links to the FSM i mentioned above. I was not able to send it via email it was too big Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strokerzedd Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 Mike' date=' I didn't mean to download that file, - [i']no worries that's what they are for[/i] I'm just sorting out the air cleaner input - me too, I'll see what we come up with and post on my webpage & here Of the two connectors on the front of the intake manifold throttle plate there are two electrical connectors, the yellow one is the engine temp sensor. What's the other one? - the other little one next to it is the temp gauge sender - if your motor is an R32 it will run your standard temp gauge. The other yellow connector on the collector is another temp sensor for the ECU I think regards Mike, I see that you found the thread with the photos of the custom machined front turbo inlet, I wasn't sure where I found it but here it is for anyone else: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127109&page=8 I like stony's idea, using the stock rear turbo inlet on the front, just have to find one now. Totally off topic but a friend just sent me this link for an electronic gauge cluster that he's ordered, might be an interesting add on for performance capture.http://www.dashdaq.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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