lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 What is the preferred method of running a new 3/8" fuel line in a 240Z for an LT1, What side of the car and how do you attach it to the car and how about bending it to fit. With the JTR kit, things are a little tight on the passenger side but that is where all of the existing lines are to maybe zip tie the new line too. Any Ideas? Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 You need 2 lines for the LT1. Which side does you engine's lines com out on? Mine came from a 94 Z28 so the line are on the driver's side. Rather than route them aross the engine bay I picked up some Corvette quick release stalinless lines . I cut them off a bit and re-flared them, not easy with stainless. They run down just along the firewall at the wheel well. I then used 3/8" inlet and 5/16" return brake line running inside the frame, up and across the diff to the passenger side to my filter and then to my Z28 fuel tank. The lines are held up with those rubber coated clamps. What is the preferred method of running a new 3/8" fuel line in a 240Z for an LT1, What side of the car and how do you attach it to the car and how about bending it to fit. With the JTR kit, things are a little tight on the passenger side but that is where all of the existing lines are to maybe zip tie the new line too. Any Ideas?Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Ya, with a 280Z you actually have a frame rail but with the 240 the rail stops half way back and then the lines would be completely exposed, Any other Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 How are they protected in a stock 240Z? You could always make a U-channel to run them though in the unprotected area if it worries you. That is one reason I did not want to run hoses. Ya, with a 280Z you actually have a frame rail but with the 240 the rail stops half way back and then the lines would be completely exposed, Any other Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 Well for starters they are up along the top of the tunnel not down at the frame rails and floor boards. Big difference. Although I don't think that there would be a problem, but there is a chance that a rock or speed bump could connect with the lines that are simply attached to the bottom of the floor boards Tell me, You don't have any problem with numerous connections along the way? Leaks? Where did you look for those corvette LT1 fuel Lines? Ebay or where and what year were they for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 When I converted to FI on my 73 I had to add a 3/8" return line. I bought a "roll" of metal line and roughly laid it out following along the factory metal fuel line. I used high quality (NOT HF!) nylon cable ties to tie the new line to the old. At first I thought this was only going to be a temporary solution and I'd switch to some metal mounts with rubber isolators later, but it's been almost 2 years now and every time I've check the fuel line and cable ties they're all in great shape and not showing any signs of rubbing wear etc. The hardest part was bending the metal line and not kinking it, but the advantage is that it's all one piece from just in front of the fuel tank all the way up into the engine compartment. I figured that in the event of an accident/collision, having routed it along side the factory line would be the safest. And it's reasonably well tucked up out of the way of rocks etc that might be kicked up while driving. Again, it's no worse than the factory line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 I used a 3/8 aluminum tubing that I gought from McMaster Carr. I ran it along the sub-frame that I had added to strengthen the chassis (it's 3" steel channel). I ran it along the outside, since I was going to the front wheel-well where I mounted the surge tank. I used the stock supply line (which is about 5/16) for the return. You can see the Holley pump near the gas tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 Do you happen to have the part # for that alumimum fuel line. All I can find in their catalog is 3ft and 6ft lenghs. I think I will need at least 7 to 8 ft . Did the frame rail additions help or can you tell? Baddog or Maddog Rails? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skib Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 what about this stuff? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63063/10002/-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Fuel pressure at 40 psi is no where near as high as brake pressure so I don't think the connections are a problem. Granted I did have to re-tighten a couple of them after I first started the car. EBay on the corvette lines, can't remember what year but they are for an LT1 Vette so it has to be 92 -96. Like these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-96-corvette-braided-steel-fuel-lines-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ370021838499QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories One is 3/8" and one is 5/16". If you go that way be aware that they won't fit without bending or cutting them. I cut mine and it was very hard to flare these. We had to use a press. Well for starters they are up along the top of the tunnel not down at the frame rails and floor boards. Big difference. Although I don't think that there would be a problem, but there is a chance that a rock or speed bump could connect with the lines that are simply attached to the bottom of the floor boards Tell me, You don't have any problem with numerous connections along the way? Leaks? Where did you look for those corvette LT1 fuel Lines? Ebay or where and what year were they for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 Ya If I can get them bent I was just going to have the -6 fitting welded on. I tried to bend them. They loos like allumunum but maybe they are stainless. Where's my magnet. Oh thats right . A magnet won't wok on stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted January 26, 2009 Share Posted January 26, 2009 Do you happen to have the part # for that alumimum fuel line. All I can find in their catalog is 3ft and 6ft lenghs. I think I will need at least 7 to 8 ft . Did the frame rail additions help or can you tell? Baddog or Maddog Rails? McMaster PN 5177K46 $25.10 for 25 ft coil Easy-Bend Aluminum Tubing Also known as Alloy 3003-O, this tubing is softer and more bendable than our other aluminum tubing. It has seamless construction. Use with water, air, alcohol, and oil. Meets ASTM B483-03, B483-75, and B483-95. Not rated for sterilization. (also available in a bunch of other sizes) My frame rails are home-brew. They definitely help. I used to get enough body twist that the hood would pop open under hard acceleration... not anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 I ran my fuel line similar to PaulR's, except on the inside of my fabricated 'frame rails'. This line is stainless, and the equivilant to -8AN, wich was probabily a bit overkill, but oh well.. ...and my new pickup for inside the tank. Cheers Ryan~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 I ran it along the outside, since I was going to the front wheel-well where I mounted the surge tank. Paul - Anyway for you to protect the surge tank? Man if you run over anything on the road at speed, I am afraid it will take that thing out! Don't mean to be a ball buster and not sure if you covered it in any other threads. Just asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Paul - Anyway for you to protect the surge tank? Man if you run over anything on the road at speed, I am afraid it will take that thing out! Don't mean to be a ball buster and not sure if you covered it in any other threads. Just asking. I was thinking the same thing. My fuel filter is up in the rear fender behind the wheel, beside the fuel tank. I added a stailess steel sheild, just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 That is impressive, nice work. I ran my fuel line similar to PaulR's, except on the inside of my fabricated 'frame rails'. This line is stainless, and the equivilant to -8AN, wich was probabily a bit overkill, but oh well.....and my new pickup for inside the tank. Cheers Ryan~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Paul - Anyway for you to protect the surge tank? Man if you run over anything on the road at speed, I am afraid it will take that thing out! Don't mean to be a ball buster and not sure if you covered it in any other threads. Just asking. Yeah, Maybe i should fab a shield to protect it and the lines. The tank itself is .080 thick steel, so pobably not likely to get puntured (i.e. thicker than the sheetmetal inner fenders that seem to hold up OK), but the fuel lines might be easier to cut. Maybe jacketed lines in the exposed area would help. Thanks for pointing it out. BTW, the other black rectangular object is the tranny oil cooler. I did place a expanded metal screen in front of it, since its directly behind the tire. (It's not installed in the picture). The surge tank is more off to the side, but a large object could still get kicked up into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 When I bought my car it had a Scarab type V8 install with long tube headers. Because of room the PO put in a remote oil filter sitting in the front wheel well. It had rubber hoses running to it. I never had a problem but it worried me, just don't like stuff flying off the tires into critical components. Plus it was a PITA when I changed oil because filter was always covered with road grime, the fresh tar incident was the worst!! You have a nice looking car BTW. Yeah, Maybe i should fab a shield to protect it and the lines. The tank itself is .080 thick steel, so pobably not likely to get puntured (i.e. thicker than the sheetmetal inner fenders that seem to hold up OK), but the fuel lines might be easier to cut. Maybe jacketed lines in the exposed area would help. Thanks for pointing it out. BTW, the other black rectangular object is the tranny oil cooler. I did place a expanded metal screen in front of it, since its directly behind the tire. (It's not installed in the picture). The surge tank is more off to the side, but a large object could still get kicked up into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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