Daeron Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 So, since I finally started a project thread (and couldn't bear to do it on a Honda forum) I need to start a thread here for feedback and discussion At the beginning of November, the automatic transmission on my beloved old Subaru GL-10 threw out second gear. "We LIKE lugging through first only to lug through third!" the pistons said. Their connecting rods readily agreed, and so since it was obvious that my boxer had finally gone senile... I took the old girl out behind the shed and fed her a lunch of lead. My brother graciously offered to let me drive HIS 88 CRX for work purposes until I got my own ride; Times are Tough for an undereducated, over-knowledged Pizza guy. So fast forward to the week before Christmas, and my dad wakes me up after about four hours sleep, at ten AM on a Saturday morning. (I close Friday nights; I am at WORK until 2 AM so no guff for being up till 6.) Blah blah, CRX, stick shift, $500, posted twenty minutes ago. I call the guy, find out it needs a windshield and a hatch and a radiator... I am thinking "feh. Coffeeeeee..." An hour later my brother woke up and came over; his reaction was "Lets go look at the car NOW. Do you have money? bring it with you." So we went. The rest of the tale can be found here, but the short version is as follows: I put a new radiator in it, bought a pair of headlight assemblies from some guy online, got a hood and a hatch from the junkyard and painted the inner panels with pep-boys rattlecan. I am working on straightening out the front clip damage (NOTHING significant, just a bunch of mounting points for radiator etc.) and painting the battery tray area. An online Honda parts store is supposed to be shipping me a bumper bar and a few miscellaneous items, and after that I meet with a friend with HVLP and a spray booth, get the paint matched, and shoot the exterior of the hood, hatch, and fender. So, let me know what you think! This is a DD/Pizzamobile; my brothers CRX is quick and fun, this car is torquey and will be a blast but isn't going to surprise any 350Zs or C4 corvettes. (My brothers' DOES. 1.5 liter, NA) I may go for a bit more pep later on (the intake and computer in the car are incredibly restrictive, but they impart high velocity to the intake charge and thats where alot of torque comes from) but for now I am just doing a stock restoration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomflatz Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Sounds like it will end up being a nice daily ride. I've always wanted a CRX. This one was nice price for sure, good score! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 okay, First thing, just pry off all the honda emblems and stick a couple Z emblems on there, then get some Sticky back paper to make your own bumper stickers, and put "When I grow up I want to be a Z" on the back. hehe.. Okay now for what you can do, You should get some Z32 seats n throw them in there, and uh... I don't know what else you can do but this is hybridZ... Gotta at least use Z parts. Really tho, DD and pizza delivery veh, a CRX is a pretty good choice. As a veteran of the pizza biz myself (I actually used to deliver in a 78 S30, in college, till I got a festiva to beat) I think you'll find you can't beat the gas mileage, esp if the Pizza Co makes you buy your own gas. You'll find delivering beats the hell out of your shocks and brakes, so those would be my next choice for upgrades. Just use higher quality carbon pads, and if you can find them some heavier springs unless shocks are cheap. These should last you a while. Most of all think about how long you're keeping the car, and tailor your mods to that. No sense in polishing a turd if you're going to flush it... now get back to work on your Z, I know it's not done yet... Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 25, 2009 Administrators Share Posted February 25, 2009 HoMo... Co?... Was watching the Disney channel with my 4 year old and 14 year old daughters recetnly and this commercial comes on; "Honda is a proud sponsor of the Disney Channel..." After a brief pause, my 14 year old erupts in laughter and says; "That explains it!..." She says the DC stickers commonly seen on Hondas stands for Disney Channel.. Set em up, we'll knock em down.. All kidding aside, my sports car racing background being firmly rooted in SOLO II/autocross, I have a great deal of respect for the CRX. It is very capable autocross and track car. Uber short wheel base, light weight, etc. Akin to the original Mini, but built by Honda. Great FWD platform from which build a seriously capable car. My all time favorite CRX has to be Denny Crabill's. SBC V-8, all under the hood, with Corvette front double A-arm suspension. http://www.dilysimotorsports.com/V8CRX.htm GRM writeup; http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/its-just-metal/ This one looks interesting… http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2438071 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglist Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 So, let me know what you think! This is a DD/Pizzamobile; my brothers CRX is quick and fun, this car is torquey and will be a blast but isn't going to surprise any 350Zs or C4 corvettes. (My brothers' DOES. 1.5 liter, NA) I may go for a bit more pep later on (the intake and computer in the car are incredibly restrictive, but they impart high velocity to the intake charge and thats where alot of torque comes from) but for now I am just doing a stock restoration. No offense, but did you just describe a stock CRX as torquey? If you do indeed have the 1.5 you either have a D15B2 with 92hp and 88 lb/ft or the D15B6 making 72hp and 83 lb/ft. Not exactly a torque monster. What trim level is yours? A DX or HF? What motor does your brother have in his CRX? I was into Honda's for years before I got into Z's and had a Legend, Accord & an Integra GSR. Its not so much that the intake or computer are incredibly restrictive its just that motor is meant for MPG and not power. Do yourself a favor and instead of spending any money on trying to add power to that motor and get yourself an engine swap. You could even get a later year D16 vtec motor and be making 120hp+ for cheap (you can get D-series engines for anywhere from free to $600). If you want a good Honda forum check out www.honda-tech.com You can pretty much get any info you'd ever want there. Good luck with your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 So Daeron is playing for the other team now? That reminds me, I eventually will have to track down a B18 to swap into the '79 Civic that sits forlornly on the side of the shop. Maybe after I'm done with the 510. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Pizza guys unite! HA! It may be a ♥♥♥♥ job, but making $200 + wage a night for listening to my radio and cruising around aint bad. sounds likea fun little beater, and I bet it gets a bit better mileage than MY pizza machine, which is an '88 AUdi 80 quattro 5spd, although it does about 23 around town, not too shabby! The modifying bug still strikes with even the most mudane of daily transportation and when I found out that the 3.6L audi v8, rated at about 250/250 BOLTS UP to the stock 5 cyl trans...... well, lets just say Ive been scouring the upullit yards and finally found one, I only hope it lasts as long as next wednesday, when they have their monthly 50% off sale..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 The longblock is a JDM "D15B" with no fourth digit, which I have gathered indicates basically a d15b2, but its an HF with stock intake, fuel rail and computer. The end result is yes, a torquey beast. I went into it at length in the long winded project thread, but its got a motor trying to breathe through a relatively restrictive intake, so the velocity achieved is impressive. The tradeoff is, no room for high RPM airflow, but the HF EFI system cuts the fuel at 5500 RPM anyhow, so its no loss. With a 2.9x:1 final diff and two overdrive gears, the original engine was built to be all in at two grand. My brother has a "mini-me" swapped '88 HF that I have been delivering in for the last three months. Its great; 35 mpg, 1830 pounds as is with no driver (gutted interior, recaro seat and roll bar) and in the end I could almost say it hangs with 350Zs and C4 corvettes off the line... It certainly makes them take me seriously (the guy in the 'vette was PISSED; mullet-man, heh) Looking at my options... we just *happen* to have an intercooler of modest dimension with 2 or 2 1/4 inch pipes... and apparently the stock HF exhaust manifold is stupid easy to bolt a T25 flange turbo onto... and this ECU can be chipped and tuned from what I understand??? so while I COULD simply upgrade to an SI intake and ECU..... I think if I do ANYTHING it would be a chip, a flange adapter and turbo, piping and maybe if needed, injectors. Stick with the stock tiny inlet manifold and maybe hog it out a tad along the last 25-40mm of the track.... I don't know. I have had the car for two months now and things are finally falling close enough together for me to be getting psyched and start having ideas about the future. the price of a snail, flange, tubing, and a chip is a very very very cheap turbo upgrade, and if I can pull 100-125 (+?) combined hp/tq that easily... its a no brainer. *whistles*and*makes*BOV*sounds* Lookit me I'm a FANBOY!!!! If I were to go crazy with a swap, it would be fivespeed legacy EJ22, turbo to come. Top mount the intercooler, top mount the RADIATOR if needs be (angle it so that the top tank is above the back cylinder and the lower tank is against the firewall, same with IC) and go AWD. Even NA the EJ22 was about 140 horse and 130 torque. Braap: I would be willing to go EA82 with it and turbo one of them just for ease, but we both know that little antique is best left as is. How is yours, BTW? The hood I bought was already missing the front H logo. The only two IDs on it are the H in the hatch glass (can't get rid of that one, maybe a sticker over it?) and HONDA on the rear driver side back trim glass. That will go as soon as I take my time with some gentle solvent and a razor. Query: Valve cover is all funk nastified. Obviously it needs an intense trip to the Spa. (I am good at cleaning and reconning aluminum and metal parts like this; I like it) I am pretty sure I want to keep it black and sand off the letters to make it look essentially like stock in the end, but I am NOT set on going black. Any ideas are welcome, but red is out of the question. The other question is one of texture. I really don't think I wanna go gloss or satin finish (satin has been my preferred black finish thus far in the restore) but I don't really like the Krylon krinkle stuff that comes out looking like an old school kickball.. I was thinking maybe something like a trunk lining type flecking texture to just give it an even "stucco" type finish of a super fine grain, a bit more like stock than the krylon stuff... To be honest, I have seen three or four Z valve covers done with the Krylon stuff and it seems like it always gets one real flaw or two in every coat. A simple flecking wouldn't be so bad, and I can do a light base coat a filler base coat, both in a lighter color, and then after that cures for a day or two I can paint it with my preferred black and clear finish.... What to do?? Opinions, thoughts, and ideas please, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 ObdI and an ostrage. Very tunable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 26, 2009 Administrators Share Posted February 26, 2009 .. If I were to go crazy with a swap, it would be fivespeed legacy EJ22, turbo to come. Top mount the intercooler, top mount the RADIATOR if needs be (angle it so that the top tank is above the back cylinder and the lower tank is against the firewall, same with IC) and go AWD. Even NA the EJ22 was about 140 horse and 130 torque. Braap: I would be willing to go EA82 with it and turbo one of them just for ease, but we both know that little antique is best left as is. How is yours, BTW?.. That would be cool.... My little Suby GL wagon is till kicking. I'm stumped over the coolant issue, but it seems fine! Heater blows slightly warm air, not hot, car temp never gets hot. For now, I just drive it on occasion when I need a dose of slow character. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 That would be cool....My little Suby GL wagon is till kicking. I'm stumped over the coolant issue, but it seems fine! Heater blows slightly warm air, not hot, car temp never gets hot. For now, I just drive it on occasion when I need a dose of slow character. Refresh me on the "coolant issue;" I got to a point where I was regularly recommending to people that they run a good potent block flush, and then after draining it pull each heater core hose and blast a garden hose through the heater core both ways. Remember, this is AFTER it gets flushed with chemicals, but before you refill with water and run, so it helps get alot of schmutz out of the heater core; mine was anemic before I did that (not frequently used in SoFla) and worked great afterwards. what, pray tell, does "ostrage" mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted February 26, 2009 Administrators Share Posted February 26, 2009 Refresh me on the "coolant issue;" I got to a point where I was regularly recommending to people that they run a good potent block flush, and then after draining it pull each heater core hose and blast a garden hose through the heater core both ways. Remember, this is AFTER it gets flushed with chemicals, but before you refill with water and run, so it helps get alot of schmutz out of the heater core; mine was anemic before I did that (not frequently used in SoFla) and worked great afterwards. what, pray tell, does "ostrage" mean? A little while back, I was struggling to get the Suby to drain and take coolant! You recommended your flushing technique which I will do, when time permits. Right now, it runs and doesn't overheat, so I'll just leave it alone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayG1988 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Don't take the car anywhere near C.FL, too many thieves. Nothing but praaaaa praa honda boys. Good luck with everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 My all time favorite CRX has to be Denny Crabill's. SBC V-8, all under the hood, with Corvette front double A-arm suspension. Denny is a very tallented builder and nice guy, that car was a site to behold, the Vette IFS was blended into the crx frame rails seemlessly, just amazing, and CLEAN, well every cars he builds is clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Got my bumper bar and miscellaneous bolts in today. I went by a hardware store trying to get some stainless fasteners.. I need two 12mmx1.25 thread locknuts, four lockwashers that same diameter, and four washers that same diameter. I would prefer to get stainless for anyhting possible, because these bits are all going onto the front subframe crossmember, and the four bolts are in GREAT shape but they had no lockwashers and their washers are rusted nasty; the Nylock nuts from the radius rods aren't so bad, but they are nylocks, so they need to be replaced and stainless would be nice. I got stymied at the store I went to; no locknuts in the right thread, no stainless nuts, I am not loc-titing a non stainless nut onto an already rusty radius rod end. I will figure that out tomorrow. My big issue at this juncture is minor front clip damage from the unknown accident. Basically the sheetmetal that holds the hood latch and driver headlight/corner light all into place needs to be tweaked ever so slightly. There is a super talented body/frame guy who rents space in the same shop complex as us; he has given me some pointers and is letting me use his pogo stick (super-cool tool for levering bent metal back into place) but I must confess, the sheer spacial perception needed for this kind of work is beyond me I think. When I look at the slightly bent metal, I can only analyze a single line at a time; not only can I not see in THREE dimensions, I can't visualize a "departure from nominal" analysis in TWO dimensions at once, so it just isn't my forte. Dennis (the body guy next door) has told me that all I need to do is basically define a set of points, and measure from point to point on both my car (the minor wreck) and my brothers car and get the distances to match... but that seems like a daunting task!! I don't know, tomorrow the procrastination must end, and the sheetmetal must bend, come hell or high water!!! I painted and installed the trim strip that goes along the top of the hatch today; the one I have is in super-crappy condition, but at least now its a smooth, satin black and doesn't draw TOO much attention to itself. Also will have some updated pics tomorrow.. ALOT of subtle cleanup in the engine bay (painted crossmember, replaced rusted battery tray and treated rust/painted engine bay in that area, algae/scum removal in areas I hadn't gotten yet, some rubber and plastic dressing) and the front bumper coming in and getting mounted significantly alter the appearance of the car, even though I have the radiator and the driver headlight out. So tomorrow I need to try and find my hardware, but I will just install using the crappy stuff I have for now and replace that later if needs be. Bullet list O' stuff to install in motion towards final assembly: *frame X-member *battery with re-conned hold-down *radiator/fan assy *driver headlight At this point, I need to get my bending taken care of (actually the radiator will likely wait until after the bending) because the following need to be lined up properly at this point in assembly: front of fender, hood, hood latch support, bumper cover, corner marker and headlight. Once that front Eyesocket is bent into place, I get to find a way to re-use my damaged bumper cover. I got to looking at it in detail today for the first time with a good bumper on the car in front of me, so I can see how it all goes together. I can re use my bumper cover.... but I think that in the fairly near future I am going to be buying a new/junkyard/online bumper cover for the car. There are many little mounting tabs with holes in them on the plastic bumper cover. The holes are for screws to pass through and thence into thread onto the bar. Most of them are either ripped, or severely distorted... too many to ever make this bumper sit straight and hold tight again. Maybe a Pro could make it look B to B+, but I wonder if I'll get up to C territory with it; we shall see. My brother prefers the newer style front cover anyhow; maybe he would re-use mine on his car, who knows. Will update my project thread with lots of pretty pics, and this thread with a brief rundown of the day, tomorrow night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 I read that other post for this car, and I know for a fact that the hondata system works wonders. At least it did on my 02 civic before I decided again that I hate front wheel drive and sold it after owning it 2 months. These little econo boxes can perform like no other for the comparative price. I'll take a large pepperoni and some cheezy bread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 Aww, crap, one of them long deliveries all the way to the north end.. them folks never know how to tip, the jerks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Bump, project thread updated, will post some more goodies here tomorrow. Should I buy a $90 hydraulic kit from harbor freight or not?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Go ahead and buy the harbor freight kit, just don't use it and it should last awhile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.