jtmny1999 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 Is the ECU interface Consult I (gray connector)? If so, have you tried other software with your adapter? ECUtalk comes to mind... It's the blatz odb1 consult cable, i had to hack the plug because i have no odb1 plug on my harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 OK.......I am a BlaZt distributor. You didnt need to hack the plug, you could have bought a new in car connector from us. I need you to check the following...when you try to start the car does the power continue to the consult plug? It sounds like you may not be hooked up to a constant power source. It's the blatz odb1 consult cable, i had to hack the plug because i have no odb1 plug on my harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 I just hooked it up straight to bat, when I crank the voltage drops below 12v is that the prob? still freezes.??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 That should be fine. Check the ECU....is there a switch on the RB25unit for test mode? If so and if its in test position, take it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 That should be fine. Check the ECU....is there a switch on the RB25unit for test mode? If so and if its in test position, take it out. nope series 2 motor, no screw, no led light. only way to make it go to test mode is shorting ign and some other wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 With key on i can see all the guages, water temp, tps voltage, timing everything works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 2, 2009 Author Share Posted March 2, 2009 Oh by the way thanks for helping me out man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 What happens when you try to reconnect after you lost the signal? Also, try running the dashboard with just two gauges. If you select a parameter that is sending a "bad" signal NDS will disconnect. I will be on...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 What happens when you try to reconnect after you lost the signal? Also, try running the dashboard with just two gauges. If you select a parameter that is sending a "bad" signal NDS will disconnect. I will be on...... I am at work right now, but when I tried to connect when the car is running windows wont recognize the device. I don't think its the software, i look at device manager and the com port will dissapear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 I am at work right now, but when I tried to connect when the car is running windows wont recognize the device. I don't think its the software, i look at device manager and the com port will dissapear. • bugged windows installation • faulty northbridge on laptop motherboard • bad driver package • try usb-to-rs232 conversion cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 What is your o2 doing? Is it connected properly. If not it will cause idle issues and rich fuel mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 • bugged windows installation• faulty northbridge on laptop motherboard • bad driver package • try usb-to-rs232 conversion cable Ill try the desktop tomorrow lol thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 What is your o2 doing?Is it connected properly. If not it will cause idle issues and rich fuel mix. I haven't checked the O2, ill do a test on it tomorrow. Thanks edit: wouldn't the ECU drop a code for the O2 if it was bad though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Contact me off line. You may have a bad cable. BlaZt would like to replace it with a new cable as long as we get the old one to test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtrs13rb26dett Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Some other info:All plug is redy and I looked the coilpack resistanc.It's OK! I have R33 MINE'S ECU and R33 Standerd ECU,the problem is a same with all two. I have 4 AFM: Brown sticker number is :22680 05U00 A36-000 J70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Ok so I tried to do some more trouble shooting and this is what I found out. 1. I applied 10 psi of pressure to the intake manifold, the intake doesn't hold pressure, it slowly leaks it out through the throttle body. Is this normal or should that have to be air tight? 2. I checked the resistance of the AAC valve and I get 0.0 Ω the FSM says 9~10 Ω so im thinking thats my problem. Other than that I ran out of ideas. As for the NDS still freezes up after start up, I tried it on my desktop and everything was identical as my laptop. Anyone know where to buy a new AAC valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 contact Marco Vargas at sr20store.com. He's a Nissan wiz' and he carries lots of parts for JDM engines. He's located in Gardena. IDK if your car is drive-able but i'm sure if you take it there it will be much easier to figure out. plus, He's a true datsun/nissan enthusiest and will be happy to see a nice car like yours. tell him Myron sent you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 contact Marco Vargas at sr20store.com. He's a Nissan wiz' and he carries lots of parts for JDM engines. He's located in Gardena. IDK if your car is drive-able but i'm sure if you take it there it will be much easier to figure out. plus, He's a true datsun/nissan enthusiest and will be happy to see a nice car like yours. tell him Myron sent you. Thanks man, I'll prob give him a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 14.7 sounds a bit high. On a stock Z31, 14.7 volts will render the climate control and stereo inop. At 14.1 and below, they start working again. If you have a bad ground between body and engine (I assume negative goes to engine ok or car would not crank) you will get high voltages and a host of other problems.......while the engine is running only. If you can communicate with engine off but not while running, I would try disconnecting the alternator and see if you can communicate with engine running that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slown280z Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 If you want to pay for shipping both ways I have a serial consult adapter you can borrow and try and see if it works. I use it on my SR20DET Sentra, and know it works. Plus I think it works with more software then just Datascan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.