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some 2JZ-GTE questions


yo880

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Hi guys,

 

i am looking at sticking in a 2JZ-GTE from an Aristo (probably pre 96) into my 72 240Z. i was looking at putting in an RB26.. but i thought i would look at doing something a little different (as i am putting an RB26 into my C110 240K).

 

got a few questions for you all (hopefully basic), i am afraid i am not too up on the toyota bits yet, but i am learning.. and searching

 

My main questions are in relation to the gearbox..

 

1) will a V160/V161 box fit into the 240z tunnel? (sorry did searches but all pictures from other builds are offline) does the tunnel need to be cut up / modified.. the box looks pretty big.

 

2) If i start off with the Auto box (A340 is it?), when i eventually go manual (R154 or V160), will i need a new custom driveshaft? or are the boxes the same length?

 

3) What do people do with Diff's? i was going to use an S15 HLSD Diff (which is a 3.916 in Auto, 3.692 in Manual).. with a V160 or R154 gearbox will this diff ratio be any good (looks like the toyota ones are quite low)? i definately want to stick to an R200 or R230 but what is the preferred ratio?

 

4) are there any major clearence issues (i am in Australia, so RHD)

 

Thanks Guys

Kent

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240Z with 2JZGTE and V160 - http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91359 , so it does fit but it is tight. The R154 is about the same size as the V160 so you will have to cut of the original factory tranny mount "ears" in the tranny tunnel to fit it.

 

I'm 90% sure you'd need a different driveshaft when switching from auto to manual. This fellow Austrailian of yours has a 1JZ'd 240Z and converted from auto to manual after awhile. He did a great write-up with pictures and, I'm sorry to say, if you really did search, you would have found this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127163

 

Lots of different diffs are being used. Some have used the R230 while others stick with the 3.7 R200, and I'll be putting in a 3.15 LSD R200 with my R154 - we'll see how that goes.

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Thanks ShaggyZ.. for the record i have read that post (hard to miss a sticky with a name like that!), but i didn't recall him saying that he did need to make up a new driveshaft when he changed.

 

That post was actually my main motivation to use the 2JZ over the 1UZ or RB26..

 

The 2nd post you linked to, i don't get any pictures showing in the thread (which is what i was referring to in my original post about there being no working pictures). can you see them still (maybe it is just me?) it is a shame as i would love to see them.

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Sorry, I know there aren't pictures or explanations for each thing. It was really a quick way to get you pointed to the right guys to message. There are some pictures toward the end of the 2JZ in a 240Z thread, but none for transmission clearance.

 

Just message those guys, though I'm betting Russel will jump in here at some point of his own volition.

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Russel is extremely helpful and has lots of helpful information he can throw your way mate!

 

You do need a different driveshaft after switching from Auto to Manual! Think its shorter............

 

From the man himself about the Diff Ratio's when going from Auto to Manual!

 

"Also the standard driveshaft not long enough with short nose. and all the ratio's from R32/33 Z32 far to long, need 3.3 max, have this now, still to long.Had 3 Z32 rear ends already ,sold them all, too much screwing around, easier to pay $1200 for a Quaiffe or Cusco.Stick with long nose."

But talk to Russ, he has lots of good information about this conversion and he is in Sydney!

 

An issue to consider with the JZ's is the exhaust and fuel are on the wrong side compared with the L-Series & RB Engines, also none of your gauges will work!

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also none of your gauges will work!

Gidday Tony, how goes it? you must be nearly finished by now;-),

Dat Z fuel, volts oil presure temp all work with no dramas, easy hookup, speedo and tacho probably cost efficient to update to VDO.

 

Yo880,pictures of auto, and R154 clearance on link below, page 5, PM a phone number if you want to eyeball close up.

I can put you onto a driveshaft specialist that will mate Toyota /Dat, and balance for about $300, I could not find anyone in Sydney to do this for under $500.

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Hi Guys,

 

Hi Tony, no drama's with the guages.. my 240Z didn't come with an interior, so i am starting from scratch, i was planning to barstardise an S15 dash into it.. there is no chance of the car being original anyway! hopefully that means that i can mould in a supra/aristo cluster etc. or worse case go aftermarket.

 

i just popped the S15 HLSD ratio (3.692) into a gear speed calculator with the details of a V160 (and R154), it came out with (based on 175/40/17 tyres)

1st Gear = 53.33 km/h (r154 is 62.85)

2nd Gear = 86.55 km/h (r154 is 104.48

3rd Gear = 121.58 km/h (r154 is 155.92)

4th Gear = 155.92 km/h (r154 is 204.25)

5th Gear = 204.25 km/h (r154 is 271.25)

6th Gear = 258.54 km/h

 

I don't even pretend to understand how the ratio's relate to real life (or what other factors effect them), but from these figures i can see why a lower ratio diff with an R154 is a good idea. the V160 seems to be geared differently however, enough to seemingly be workable with a 3.692 diff?

 

 

I can't understand why the MK3 had an R154 and a high ratio diff (3.7) and the Mk4 V160 had a low ratio 3.266.. the ratios seems backwards to me, but i probably just don't understand enough :)

 

Thanks Russ, i will check out the photo's and send you a pm

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Gidday Tony, how goes it? you must be nearly finished by now:wink:,

Dat Z fuel, volts oil presure temp all work with no dramas, easy hookup, speedo and tacho probably cost efficient to update to VDO.

 

Hey Russ, long time no here - You in Van Diemens Land yet?

 

How is the Manual going?

 

Hehehehe, not even close mate - kind of got a bit side tracked with the bodywork, but think I am close to finishing my new crossmember, so can bolt in the new suspension and the Subaru rack, but still a long way to go :-)!

 

No sh#t - suppose the oil/temp only require a bung and the fuel gauge has nothing to do with the engine - but don't get how the volt meter works, isn't the electricity from the toyota different than the electricity from the L-Series?

 

There is actually a place in Canberra if you purchase 5 or more VDO gauges they give you a 30% discount - actually makes it quite the attractive prospect!

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yah man, if you go with a v160 your are going to need to run a very low gear ratio that I don't think is even available from Nissan that is low enough. Other wise your 1st gear will be pointless. The v160 is quite a bit larger than the r154, I have seen them side by side.

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yah man, if you go with a v160 your are going to need to run a very low gear ratio that I don't think is even available from Nissan that is low enough. Other wise your 1st gear will be pointless. The v160 is quite a bit larger than the r154, I have seen them side by side.

 

I haven't seen the V160 and R154 side-by-side, but, knowing the R154 fills the entire tranny tunnel of a 240Z and a V160 fits, I can't imagine the V160 being much larger (wider, anyways).

 

The turbo MKIV Supras come with a 3.13 rear end, but they have slightly taller tires and they weigh about 800lbs more than a 280Z. I have a LSD R200 with a 3.15 to run with my R154; the 3.15 is very rare, FYI. I think a 3.36 would be fine, too. The R230 is always an option, as well. Here is my thread about the ratios I have to work with: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134484

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The Z32 ratio's

4.08 for R200 (NA),

From memory 3.7/1 R230 (tt),(or is it the other way around(?) with either of these, in combination with a R154 in a street car,, first gear would only come in handy for hill starts.

The oil pressure sender for the idiot warning light is the same thread as the Datsun 260Z sender, screw in -gauge works. ( JZX 100 Chaser_ don't know about other applications of the Jz engine series)

My magic wire guy didn't mention any problems making the volt meter work off toyota alternator.Took it for granted there werte no hassles.

Toyota don't play around with stuff like Nissan do, check out if it is just plug in gauges and drive away on your V8 Tony, They might just work .

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The Z32 ratio's

4.08 for R200 (NA),

From memory 3.7/1 R230 (tt),(or is it the other way around(?) with either of these, in combination with a R154 in a street car,, first gear would only come in handy for hill starts.

The oil pressure sender for the idiot warning light is the same thread as the Datsun 260Z sender, screw in -gauge works. ( JZX 100 Chaser_ don't know about other applications of the Jz engine series)

My magic wire guy didn't mention any problems making the volt meter work off toyota alternator.Took it for granted there werte no hassles.

Toyota don't play around with stuff like Nissan do, check out if it is just plug in gauges and drive away on your V8 Tony, They might just work .

 

Think the Z32 N/A diff is an R200 VLSD and it has 3.70 gears!

 

Hehehehe, sorry that was a poor attempt at humor, electricity is electricity, and the volt meter will just take a signal of the back of the alternator (or it should),

 

I will send my engine harness to Sideshow or a fellow up in QLD who does a lot of 1UZ conversion's into Cobra's, Sideshow's prices seem to have jumped a bit - remember speaking to him a few years ago and he was going to charge $800 to come down to Canberra and do my wiring, now he is charging close to $1500! Think he said about $650 if I sent him my harness - lots of other things to worry about first though!

 

Well the year model of my engine is roughly the same as yours, maybe the Datsun oil sender and temp senders will plug into the Toyota V8 - I will try that out!

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Sideshow Jim got married, probably why his prices jumped, but whatever he charges ,pay it, you will get the job done properly, with after sales follow up if anything goes wrong.If you are not in a hurry, see if he has to go to Canberra for other work and negotiate.

Still in Sydney,Got my timing wrong. the yuppy market I was going to target to sell my house to are out of work and they are now only looking for cardboard boxes to live in.(the up side is there will be as lot of cheap Porsches for sale.)

 

Edit.

Sideshow did his mechanic apprenticeship with Stewart Wilkins, knows Z's backwards.

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Sideshow Jim got married, probably why his prices jumped, but whatever he charges ,pay it, you will get the job done properly, with after sales follow up if anything goes wrong.If you are not in a hurry, see if he has to go to Canberra for other work and negotiate.

Still in Sydney,Got my timing wrong. the yuppy market I was going to target to sell my house to are out of work and they are now only looking for cardboard boxes to live in.(the up side is there will be as lot of cheap Porsches for sale.)

 

Edit.

Sideshow did his mechanic apprenticeship with Stewart Wilkins, knows Z's backwards.

 

Yeah, think that will be the deciding factor - basically about the same price as the other fellow, but after sales service from Sideshow does sound like it is pretty good! still dont think I will get it cheaper though, he was coming down for SummerNats anyway and the price was still $1500, got the impression he had enough business going on that if he didn't get mine it was no big deal at all!!!

 

Think its for the best mate, you know they lost the use of fire and live in mud-brick houses down there :-)!

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The Z32 ratio's

4.08 for R200 (NA),

From memory 3.7/1 R230 (tt),(or is it the other way around(?) with either of these, in combination with a R154 in a street car,, first gear would only come in handy for hill starts.

Auto = 4.08

TT 5-speed 3.70

Those are correct, but don't forget the 3.36 R230 Armada diff and the 2.94 R230 Armada diff (what I am now using). The Z32 TT LSD unit works in it.

Regards,

Mike

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Auto = 4.08

TT 5-speed 3.70

Those are correct, but don't forget the 3.36 R230 Armada diff and the 2.94 R230 Armada diff (what I am now using). The Z32 TT LSD unit works in it.

Regards,

Mike

The 2.94 sounds interesting didn't know it existed, what years Armada was it fitted to? (I think the Armada is marketed here as a Pathfinder)

I had a 3.3 R200 in at the start, very rare in Australia,that was OK, but unfortunately was not in great condition when I put it in,but I at least gave it a good reason to whine before it died. 3.5/1 in at the moment , makes first very "grabby",

Anything around 3.0/1 would really improve things.

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The 2.94 sounds interesting didn't know it existed, what years Armada was it fitted to? (I think the Armada is marketed here as a Pathfinder)

I had a 3.3 R200 in at the start, very rare in Australia,that was OK, but unfortunately was not in great condition when I put it in,but I at least gave it a good reason to whine before it died. 3.5/1 in at the moment , makes first very "grabby",

Anything around 3.0/1 would really improve things.

 

The 2.94 and 3.36 R230 diffs come out of the 2004-2009 Nissan Armada (some are AKA Pathfinder). The front mounting ears are in different places than the Z32 R230, but the Z32 rear cover fits the Armada R230.

The Armada gearset doesn't fit into the Z32 pumpkin (pinion is too wide), but the LSD from the Z32TT R230 fits into the Armada pumpkin, as do the Z32TT output shafts.

Here is what mine consists of...

Armada 2.94 gears

Z32TT LSD

Z32TT output stubs

Z32 rear cover

Armada pinion flange (was easy to redrill for the Chevy pattern so it did not require a special adaptor like the Z32TT pinion flange does...), allowing me to use 1350 u-joints

Regards,

Mike

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Thanks Z-GAD, Great information, Local Nissan not helpfull with sourcing ,will probably have to see if I can find find ex Japan.

 

Also ,a belated thanks, the picture of your car ,engine bay with 2J sitting in there, sans extra's,just that huge turbo, Together with Cyrus' slightly more civilised project,were the inspiration for me to do the 1J install,

(I opted for brakes on mine- thought the parachute might cause problems snagging on pedestrians)

cyrus Engine1_thumb.jpg

Copy_of_2JZ_Z_031_thumb.jpg

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Z-Gad,

 

do you happen to know what the chassis code of the armada/Pathfinder is? i am trying to look it up in the US version of FAST, i can see a VQ35DE Pathfinder (2002+ R50 chassis), but it looks like it has a live rear setup with the H233B Diff (LSD or non LSD)

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