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r200


Hitman47

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I think the years are 75-78 Z's. Like Tomahawk said, get that JTR manual.

Then you'll need the diff. and mustache bar. From there, it's as easy as unbolting the old one, and bolting the new one in!

With the right tools and a friend, it should take 2-3 hours or so....? (note: this time may vary depending on beer consumption and "significant-other" interference) flamedevil.gif

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Guest Anonymous

Len... I am confused on your rear end mount instructions........................................................................................................................................ Are you suggesting allowing the cross/dresser friend to hold and screw in your moustache' bar while you bench press your rear end into place underneath a jacked up Zee

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my rear end says exit only.

 

bolt on the mustache bar to diff

bench press diff into tunnel while a friend guides it to the two long up and down mounting thread things and start threading them up

doesnt take that long.

hardest part i think is removing the exhaust.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Originally posted by Reaper:

When I swapped the R180 to a R200 in my 240Z, I just made a new hole in the mustache bar so the new diff would fit correctly. I'm not sure how wise that was but it has worked a year now.

IIRC the new moustache bar sits further back, which would be putting your driveshaft in a bad way, if I'm correct anyway.
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You need the axles too, and the front member also is stronger but the old one works I am told. The driveshaft also should be changed, basically your throwing away the whole old assembly, so anything you can think of attached to the R180 pretty much goes bye bye.

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You know what I think is missing from the body of knowledge on R180 to R200 swaps is the fact that there are multiple R200 configurations (covering 3 generations of units); two different R180 units in use, and an early, 240z geometry difference/problem. And, if you want a 4.11 ratio you need to consider the R200 (yes, another one) from the turbo 200SX. For that matter, the issue of what rear end ratio you want is an important consideration with regard to selecting a R200.

 

Adding to this, is the early/late R200 bolt difference--10mm v. 12mm. And, you can throw in the LSD options into the mix.

 

Then there is the half-shaft considerations: apparently all are identical or interchangeable from 75-83, after which cv joints were used. Some people have said you can use R180 ones, but is that from later R180 models?

 

Whether you have to use a 280z drive shaft for the swap is another issue that seems to be unclear.

 

For someone who has not done the swap already (like me!), a nice website or table presenting all of this in a matrix-format would be great in that there is a lot of material to digest!

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GaryZ

 

For someone who has not done the swap already (like me!), a nice website or table presenting all of this in a matrix-format would be great in that there is a lot of material to digest!

 

Here is a good resource for the swap.

 

"Swapping the R180 for an R200 In A 240Z"

 

http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm

 

Take your time!

Danno74Z

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Rear Transverse Link Mount:

(Not visible in drawing above:) The rear transverse link mount runs under the rear of the differential and ties to two lower transverse links (see item #8 in drawing above) i.e. the right & left side, together. Two vertical plates run up from it and bolt to the rear subframe (see #5 in drawing above). There are two types used in the first generation Z's. The 280Z's equipped with the R200 use a transverse link that has a downward curve in it, thus allowing more room for the larger R200. The transverse link mount used in Z's equipped with the R180 is straight and should not be used with the R200.

Crap, now I need yet another peice :mad: farg...
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Danno74Z--

 

thanks for the link. I had read this one before, but forgot about it. But, if I recall correctly, there was some fuzziness about whether you could (or should) reuse R180 stub axles and whether you actually needed the 280Z drive shaft.

 

Mudge--

 

found the same to be true, only good news is that part is usually left over when the diff is removed, so unless the original buyer needed it, the market value approaches zero.

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