Racinjitter Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Figured that this should be posted up here. So I ripped the suspension from the SS today... I had one T strut and one N/A. So I did a comparison for reference sake. The Serial Nine adapters will work with N/A and Turbo strut tubes. First we have a N/A tube. Notice the diameter is the same throughout the entire length. Next we have a Turbo tube. There is a diameter transition 30mm from the cast knuckle. The transition is 5mm tall and flares out 3mm. Here is the N/A tube (on left) next to the Turbo tube(on right). Ok, so here are the goods... N/A tubes have an OD (outside diameter) of 51mm and a ID (inside diameter) of 46mm at the thread area. There is a small step in ID below the threaded area, but I don't have a tool to measure that far in. Turbo tubes are 51mm OD and have a diameter transition 30mm from the cast knuckle. The transition is 5mm tall and flares out 3mm bringing the OD to 54mm the rest of the way to the top. The ID at the threads is 50mm, again there is a step below the threads that I can't measure currently. Ok, So I finally cut the tubes up. I measured out 30mm from the base of the tube. Marked the cut line with a silver sharpie. (easier to see). You do not have to leave 30mm, how much is left of the original strut tube will determine the maximum low height that you can go. I will be milling the tube down to closer to 5mm of OE tube sticking out of the knuckle. Next I placed the tubes in a vice and started cutting them. Once you get almost all the way through the tube you should put something over the spindle thread area and bearing race area. I also placed a cardboard box with some crumpled up paper bags and pipe insulation under the spindle, so that when it falls it does not marr up the threads for the bearing retainer nut. After you cut the tubes you will want to clean up the burrs left on the inside diameter and outside diameter. You will end up with something like this when you are done cutting the tubes. The next step will be to grind the casting nub off of the base of the strut tube. Just so that it is level with the rest of the base of the tube. I did a small test fit of the S9 adapters and they will need to be pressed on, or hammered in with a block of wood or a dead blow mallet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 So there is a defined step in diameter about 6mm from the base of the knuckle where the strut tube is inserted. With the saw blade that I was using, if I cut right at the step, that would give me .5mm less leaving me with 5.5mm on the knuckle. So that is what I did. Then I ground down the knucle so that the S9 adapter sits level on the knuckle. You can see a small gap between the adapter and the knuckle. This is not good. Here they are gound down, and level with the knuckle. Next I tacked them up, and welded them all together. It is a PITA to weld in between the tube and the upright for the backing plate/caliper bracket stays. But I found an extended collett for the welder and did it up, breaking the collett in the process. I still have to drill for the remote damper adjusters, and at that time I will be gussetting the tube to the knuckle. I want to make sure that it stays in one piece. (It will hold up no problems, but I am thinking overkill). hey Ritter. just wondering... did you weld the adapter to the base from the inside and then weld the collar to the adapter after grinding the adapter flush? or do you weld it form the ouside and weld the adapter down? I did not weld the inner tube to the S9 adapter' date=' I should have for more strength, but I did not. If you do weld the inner tube to the S9 adapter it will not change the lowest to the ground setting. It will still be the same height. It is my recommendation that you weld the S9 adapter to the tube if you are not going to gussett the knuckle. So yes, I welded the S9 adapter to the knuckle directly. I am going to weld 1/4" plate to the inner portion of the knuckle and I am going to bridge the gap between the strut tube and the upright of the brake caliper mount. I may add more gussetts depending on how I feel. The 5.5 mm of tube that is left coming out of the knuckle; is it just a guide until you weld the S9 piece to the knuckle? That serves no purpose otherwise I take it. Yes, you are correct. The 5.5mm is the same height as the lower inner lip of the S9 adapter. I will take a pic to clarify this. Or if Benedict can take a pic with them not welded, that will explain it just as well. I am probably not going to weld the inner tube to the outer S9 adapter... But I did finish up the welding on them today. I used 1/4" plate steel and welded in 15mm x 40mm rectangle onto the front and back of the spindle. I also made a wedge to fit in between the caliper upright and the S9 adapter. Rough measurement of the wedge before I ground it down on one side is 20mm x 15mm. Here are the coil overs that I bought a while ago. They are Stance GR+ 3 Way's. Right now the spring that are on the coil overs are rated at 9k front and 7k rear. I have a set of 12k for the fronts and 10k for the rears on the way. I am making rear upper mounts and lower sleeves so that nothing on the body needs to be modified and ghetto washers are not utilized. Max low and high should be measured by the end of the weekend. I guess I should say this now before anyone gets confused... These are going to be installed onto the shiro. However they are destined for this rb powered car. and... Here is the s13 upper pillow ball that I started with. Here is the upper plate that I made to adapt the z31 stock upper mounting points to the spherical bearing (pillow ball). Took me about 1/2 hour to make. I was very pressed for time tonight between actual work and "my work" Here is one completed upper mount with the stance rear upper pillow ball mounted to the plates that I made. and... A preview of good stuff to come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 The rear at the side skirt is close to 3" I think it is under 3" but I didn't measure it, my helper did. The front is closer to 5". My creeper will no longer slide under the car. I will take more measurements when I have more time. I have a hover car. Approximately one 88T brake rotor from the ground. Approximately two 88T brake rotors from the ground. So I slammed it. It is as low as it can go, without modifying the lower control arms. The LCA's are bottomed out against the frame rails. Also the tension rods are grounded out against the tension rod to body bracket and the sway bar is rubbing against the body. This leaves the front SS lip at 2" of clearance. The way I got the car this low, is completely unsafe for driving. But it is def hard parked. The front factory ride height at the front fender is 25 3/4" and the rear is 26 1/2"... On the shiro it is currently 22 5/8 in the front and 21 1/2. Making the front total drop being 3 1/8" and the rear being 5". Control arm interference. Damn, I can't push dimes... But I can push pop cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanEgg Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Bump steer spacers are in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palauoriginal Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 awesome work. i saw the s9 stuff as i own a cressida as well and im curious as to see if they work on 280z/240z strut tubes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 Well, if the 240z uses 30mm OD strut tubes, then yes they will work. LOL, Bump steer spacers! This will not be the final ride height, it will be higher off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88zxturbo Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 where do you buy these parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 where do you buy these parts? The serial nine adapters can be bought from Serial Nine directly. http://www.serialnine.com/index.php?cPath=104. The strut tubes, well they come off of your car, or you buy a set to cut apart from a junkyard or the like. The coil overs can be bought form hundreds of places. I recommend touge factory out of Chicago. http://shop.tougefactory.com/default.aspx or you can try to go directly to Stance http://stance-usa.com/sus/. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLENN280ZX Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Hey Jitter, do you have a phone number and/or a part number for the S9 adapters? Tried the link and got to the web site...but cannot get into their store. If you have these numbers I'll just call and order them. Thanks, Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 It looks like their store is down. I sent an email to get the information. I do not have it currently, but should have it by tomorrow. If I don't respond in the next week, remind me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLENN280ZX Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Thanks, by the way you did a great job on your struts. They look as good as any off the shelf product available!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLENN280ZX Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Hey Jitter, Their site is back up. Thanks a lot for sharing this write-up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 Thank You Glenn! I am glad to hear that their site is back up and running. I was told in a recent email that group buys will reduce the price of the adapters. 5+ and 10+ group buys seem to be the standard lately. Also as long as Serial Nine receives the paypal with a description of what is ordered, it will be shipped out soon after the payment is received. If you do not want to fab these up yourself, there is a member that can ship the fabbed pieces out with your order of Stance coil overs. I am going to the junkyard this weekend to pull an extra set of 85T strut tubes to be cut up for these retrofits. (maybe order another set for my other car?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLENN280ZX Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hey, if there's enough interest in a group buy I'm in!! As my handle eludes to, I'm gonna do a set for my 280ZX. Did one set with weld-on collar seats, not satisfied with the end result..especially after seeing yours..DANG!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 tried to PM you but your box is full. Sorry this is off topic but you know I saw on nico you were using the wolf system on a rb25. was it pretty easy to install??? plug and play or did you have to fabricate mounts for sensors ect ect. biggest thing im interested in is something that can use the rb crank angle sensor for timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplyedmind Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Would you be interested in making and selling me some for my z31? Same color those are super clean love the gold. Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racinjitter Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 I don't really have the time to make do another set currently, but I can put you in contact with a z31 member that will make a set. His screen name on z31performance.com is Butter. On ziptied.com his screen name is Crab Spirits. He will need your existing strut tubes or to know what year z31 you have. Between Butter and I, we have all years strut tubes. I will be at his house sometime during the week after christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel203 Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 i am very interested in this i have a z31 shocks are out and been looking for coilovers forever i can find anything good. but this looks good i like what you did.. i been trying to find the adapters but i cant seem to find any. can you get back to me on some links for those please. much appreciated. and if you have any compleet kits for sale, whats the price lookin like on those ill be more than willing to do them myself i just need shocks. i recently took z32 front calipers and put them on my 86 z all was required was a cusom brake line and bend back backing plate about 1" on each side, other than that bolt right on.... geat stoping power for little price. basicly big brrake kit. only problem. 84-88 has smaller brakes, and different sides. so can only put on fronts. 89, go for it all out! get z32 bakes all round Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelp Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 You can buy Z31 coilovers from Stance (Touge Factory) and Powertrix (HSD) now. No need for any of this anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddzx Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Adapter sleeves welded on by Powertrix Edited January 28, 2014 by reddzx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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