Administrators BRAAP Posted April 3, 2009 Administrators Share Posted April 3, 2009 Recently built an uber cheesy 17mm core plug/block drain tool for a quick and dirty plug removal a few weeks ago; building a little nicer version, again on the cheap. Cutting down this 17mm allen wrench and tacking it in a ½†drive 17mm socket. Chucked a used damper bolt in the lathe and turned down the head so the damper can slide off past it when using the 3 jaw puller. Even gave it pilot of the pullers centering cone. In deciding whether or not I should get serious about building a front and rear cover alignment tool, more to the point, would such a tool be worth the hassle of building it, I went ahead and modified a stock damper. I’ve Seen pics of the GM version that captures the front cover and works in conjunction with the plate that bolts to the pan rail, looks like the E-ticket for proper front and rear cover alignment. This DIY tool I’m hoping will offer some benefit over nothing at all. I took my old truck damper, and removed .002â€-.003†from the hub by honing it. Then cut off the inertia ring, chucked it up in the lathe and turned down the spokes and filed/deburred them for “finger friendly†finish. Maybe this will suffice as it “just†slips over the cranks snout? Guess we’ll see when it comes time to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 I don't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted April 3, 2009 Author Administrators Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) I don't get it. If only if you spoke GM LSx... Edited April 3, 2009 by BRAAP sounded a bit abrasive, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filmjay Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Nice. I saw the first pic and thought "what about just cutting down an allen wrench?".....and BAM! There it was in the next pic. LOL!!! Have to say I'm guilty of the same thing...kinda. Have stacked nuts together to get at a hex screw that I couldn't get a proper wrench into. The right size bolt and some vice grips work well too...of course, you'll have to buy a new bolt b/c the vice grips will destroy the threads. HAHA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goober Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 LOL. I have an ground down crank bolt in my garage also. The only question i have for you is have you used a breaker bar with a socket and put it on the crank bold and then bumped the starter to loosen the crank bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted April 4, 2009 Author Administrators Share Posted April 4, 2009 LOL. I have an ground down crank bolt in my garage also. The only question i have for you is have you used a breaker bar with a socket and put it on the crank bold and then bumped the starter to loosen the crank bolt? uh.. welll... I'm taking the 5th on that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Haha!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blaze73 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Reminds me of working on my VW! I made almost the exact same tool for the tranny drain plug....used an old wheel bolt with a 17mm head (VW uses bolts, not studs and lugs like normal cars). Every second line in the repair manual is "Use VW special tool # xxx-xxxxx-xx." My personal fav was the timing belt tensioner tool made from a dinner fork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted October 23, 2009 Author Administrators Share Posted October 23, 2009 Built another tool yesterday. An extended mandrel for my Snap-On damper installer, (pt# YA 188C) so it will work for the LSx. Took a new LSx damper bolt, turned down the head of the bolt on the lathe and threaded it to fit the damper installer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted October 23, 2009 Administrators Share Posted October 23, 2009 Cool. I've got a bit of "tool black" if you'd like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sq_creations Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 I like the damper setup. It was a total pain putting on my crank damper! I ended up using 2 different length bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i r teh noobz Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 The ARP replacement bolt was long enough to put the dampener back on with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted November 19, 2009 Author Administrators Share Posted November 19, 2009 Damper installer worked perfectly! Another new tool. Took a Chevy trans driveshaft yoke that I use as a plug, chucked it up in the lathe, machined flats across the top of the yoke for perfectly square surface when verifying power train angles during engine swaps. You could just as easily measure off the bell housing mating surface if you can get access to it, machined cylinder head surfaces, or the crank damper. This is handy for immediate comparisons to the diff input flange angle. Also made a power train aiming tool from the advice a good friend, using a Datsun 280-Z steering column tube which just so happens to be within .001†of ideal OD to fit in the tail shaft of the GM T-56, and using a section of schedule 20 PVC pipe that fits oh-so-nicely over that as a telescoping slide, I am able to verify the “aim†of the tail shaft to the diff input during conversions. Sorry no pics of that goodie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zzeal Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Damper installer worked perfectly! Another new tool. Took a Chevy trans driveshaft yoke that I use as a plug, chucked it up in the lathe, machined flats across the top of the yoke for perfectly square surface when verifying power train angles during engine swaps. You could just as easily measure off the bell housing mating surface if you can get access to it, machined cylinder head surfaces, or the crank damper. This is handy for immediate comparisons to the diff input flange angle. Very clever!, wish I had one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted October 31, 2010 Author Administrators Share Posted October 31, 2010 LSx engine oil primer. I realize that just cranking the engine over on the starter with the coils/injectors disabled is the norm and most have done so with no ill affects with that method, I just prefer to go that little extra pressurizing the oil system prior to spinning the crank on the starter. Feeds 4 qts of fresh oil under pressure into the engine oil galley just above the oil filter, (also back feeds to the pump), with a piston using compressed air. Built in piston stop at the bottom protects the pistons seals, manual flow valve etc. Worked perfectly today. Engine was LM7 short block that had been sitting for over 3 years, fresh top end. Removed valve covers to verify oil made it up and out the pushrods. Rest of the sump capacity poured in over the top of the rockers. Engine fired right up on first crank, no oiling issues. End cap and pistons bits prior to assembly; Engine Oil Primer with piston, manual flow valve, high pressure clear hose connected to LSx galley cover; Disclaimer. If anyone attempts to duplicate, be sure to use a shut off valve and a clear tube capable of the pressure being applied. Air can and will still get past the piston due to the ABS/PVC not so smooth inner walls and if left unnoticed will push all the oil out of the galleys, bearings, etc leaving you worse off than before you started! Also, the piston is not necessary, but I built it that way as means to reduce the possibility of rapidly introducing air into the system once empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted October 31, 2010 Share Posted October 31, 2010 Cool! All very useful tools when working on the internals of an LSx. What do you use to keep lifters from dropping during cam swaps? Dowel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB30X Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 Cool! All very useful tools when working on the internals of an LSx. What do you use to keep lifters from dropping during cam swaps? Dowel? Yeah dowel, unless you want to buy 16 pen magnets. What about making your own version of the crane cams double valve spring compressor for spring changes or head dissasembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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