KenshinX Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Well My dad has encountered a guy with a 87 supra non turbo with the 7MGE and a 5 speed tranny. The guy will sell everything needed from the engine, transmission, ecm,to the driveshaft and rear end for $500. My question is this a good deal? And would it be a good swap into a Z? I know of plenty of 7MGTE swaps, but not too much on the 7MGE motor. I see that it has 190-200hp but is this at the wheels or crank? Also wondering how much power is avaliable if I built the motor i.e. lots of head work etc. N/A power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyZ Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 My biased and well-enough educated decision is it just doesn't make sense. It would be too much work and it would start costing you some bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 You need to be asking what the real difference between the 7mgte and the 7mge short and long blocks are. I'm not sure, but for $500 you could have a nice DD swap if you're alright with 250ish hp. Sounds like you want more though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slown280z Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Look up the differences between the GE and GTE. If I remember correctly, the GTE is a LOT beefier. It's my understanding that this motor is kinda like a truck motor. Low revs, high low end torque. I bet it will cost you more money to get 200-250hp out of one of those then the good ol L series. Few posts have seen that even though these motors are DOHC, the heads don't really flow all that much comparatively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Lets all just agree and say too much work and not worth the time to swap a GE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraylen Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 The 7mgte is like 230ish horsepower and heavy. Im sure you could do alot of weight reduction on the motor if you dont have to worry about smog. Theres a site, I think its called 7mpower.com or something and its a bunch of MK3 motors with some kick.. nothing 2jz style but in a little Datsun.. well you know. I personally would go 1 or 2jz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 just get a gte. gte has the oil feed and return for the turbo. has oil squirters for the pistons, etc.. now if your going standalone you can just build the ge with forged stuff same as the gte and same for headwork and cams etc.. just use a -t off the oil sending unit for pressure to the turbo and weld a 10an bung in the pan for drain. 7mgte stock is 230hp, 245 tq through 2 cats and 2 mufflers in series. its proven a full 3in exhaust from turbo back that replaces the elbo on the tubo is good for 50hp or so. i got rid of all the extra crap off mine, egr, vsv's, egr cooler, stupid extra brackets, all the stock engine managent and went megasquirt. etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraylen Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 You got some sick cars William. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 I'm not going to lie - I wouldn't put a 7M in my car if it had 20,000 original miles and was free. My roommate has two MKIII Supras, he threw a rod last year, just rebuilt a new 7M and he still has to worry about rod knock. I figure if you are going through the trouble of a motor swap, try to track down a turbo 2JZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 if he is having rodknocj issues he didnt build it right. the main prob with 7m's is engine management. go standalone and you wont have probs. look at cliftons car. he is making tons of power with a 7mgte. he actually helped me wit hthe base map for my 7mgte and sorting some issues i was having Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 You got some sick cars William. thanks. im working on them still. need to find someone that wants to buy my 40mm webers or trade me some 48's that need rebuilt for them. id prefere 48's but would prolly take a matched set of 45's also. the 40's are just too small. and this 7mgte is coming along nicely. ill prolly take it the track when my friend is back from his vacation. i need a better spring for my manual boost controller and to tune the timing some more. i think i can add more up top to gain some more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraylen Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I blew the HG on my GTE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 metal hg, arp head studs and a proper tune fixes all the issue with the 7m. you cant get a proper tune on the stock ecm with piggy backs. the only reason id go 2j is to use the electronics from it. far more advanced. but since i have a standalone now, when i get tired of the 7m, ill just go 1uz-fe and turbo it. wont take much to build an adaptor to fit my t56 to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhlz Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 the 7m's are good engines. you can make easy power with the gte's. the only downs that i can think of are it's headgasket and the head. i've rebuilt two of these engines with 6 extras on the side. the 7m engines with higher milage has problems with the water jackets on the head. they like to deteriorate. it was most likely a toyota design flaw. the lower milage ones started to show the same deterioration on the head. if you haven't decided yet, i say go for it, if you can be satisfied with about 170-190whp from the non turbo 7m. assuming you have a good running 7mge, you'll be running around the low 15's to high 14's in the quarter-mile. maybe. for $500, it's not a bad deal. that should save you some money to reinforce the block and turbo it. wooo hooo!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 actually if you stick to the toyota red coolant the erosion of the water jackets isnt an issue. ive had a couple i opened up that only ever had toyots red in them. looked like brand new. some reason it seems its the green stuff corrodes the aluminum and pretty quick too. idk why. hell, i saw a car with over 100k on the origonal coolant hoses. all of them, and they were all in great shape. but again, it had only ever run the toyota red coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yhlz Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 williamb, that's an interesting point about the red coolant. i shall let my brother know since he is the one that currently has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Hi, williamb82 could you please tell me what stand alone system you are using for the 7mgte. Thanks Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Interesting you mention red coolant. It seems older (E30, etc) Bimmers had the same problem with the green coolant. My E30 had ridiculously corroded coolant passages with green stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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