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Cutting dizzy spindle to eliminate dizzy


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I'm working a a megasquirt setup and will be eliminating the distributor. I made a block-off plate to cover the dizzy mount hole in the timing cover but I'm wondering about what I should do with the drive shaft coming up out of the oil pump. The dizzy used to support it...I would expect severe wear on the bushing in the timing cover if it was not supported. Should I cut it off as short as possible, or leave it long, or what?

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technically the crank drives both the oil pump and dizzy. The LD uses a 'short' version of the oil pump drive. There is no dizzy to drive on the diesel. I ran the LD one in my car when I had SDS on it. I believe it was 'cut off' like an inch or two above the drive gear.

 

I tried to google a pic really quick but couldnt find it.

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My friend is wanting to install a set of RB20DET coil packs on to his L28. We have found out that the coils still installed on the bracket will line up pefertly with the spark plugs on the motor. we only need to make a plate that will hold that bracket to the valve cover. But here is a question. Does there need to be a bearing or bushing installed where the distributor was under the block off plate, to keep the shaft from wobblin and damaging the front engine cover?

 

 

 

Personally, I prefer to cut the quill shaft down. With the dizzy removed, there is nothing now to support the top section of shaft, (note the air gap between the shaft and dizzy hole in the picture. The Dizzy locates the upper portion of the quill shaft).

 

The jury is still out if it really has benefit or not, though I am convinced that between "leaving the quill shaft to wobble around" vs "cutting it down", that cutting it down is the lesser of the two evils and eliminates the “possibility” of premature quill-shaft/front cover wear, whether that possibility exists, or not.shrug.gif For what its worth, I ran mine with quill shaft shortened!

 

Here is a thread talking about this exact situation…

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114801

 

Quill1Medium.jpg

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How about putting a bronze or brass bushing in there to support it? Just make it pressed in and it would act like the dizzy did in supporting it

 

You could and that should work just fined. Personally I feel it would be FAR easier to grab a hack saw and just cut it. The quill shaft is really quite soft and took approx 30-60 seconds to cut once removed.

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Just for the record, and NOT to be contrary, but I left mine long, unsupported and it has NO ill effect on anything. I'd think that NOT modifying it or making it shorter would retain any balance or weight distribution it might already have. Cutting it on any type of an angle is just asking for trouble, i.e. wobble. So if you DO cut it, make sure it's cut at a 90 degree angle to it's axis.

 

As stated before, the jury is still out on it, but I chose to leave mine long and it hasn't hurt anything at all.

 

Your mileage may vary.

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Just for the record, and NOT to be contrary, but I left mine long, unsupported and it has NO ill effect on anything. I'd think that NOT modifying it or making it shorter would retain any balance or weight distribution it might already have. Cutting it on any type of an angle is just asking for trouble, i.e. wobble. So if you DO cut it, make sure it's cut at a 90 degree angle to it's axis.

 

As stated before, the jury is still out on it, but I chose to leave mine long and it hasn't hurt anything at all.

 

Your mileage may vary.

 

This is what I did. I seriously doubt a slightly off kilter cut would mess with the balance to any substantial effect. I have maybe a few hundred "fun" miles on mine. I recently disassembled the motor, inspected the timing cover, oil pump shaft, etc. No problems.

 

I do know that cutting the shaft would make my method of install harder. I suppose you could just stick the shaft on the oil pump and wiggle it in to place.

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