BunnySlippers

Also, make sure you have the proper speedo gear. It sits just inside the transmission. The auto trans. one does not fit in the manuals if I remember correctly.

Rough outline: Get the car high off the ground. I recommend the Truck/SUV jack stands. All of the S30's have the same length driveshaft. It fits the auto, 4 speed, and 5 speed. You will not need a different ecu. But you will need to bridge the wires on the neutral safety switch. Just the clutch and brake pedals, the pedal box is the same. EVERYTHING for the clutch system. You will not need to cut anything for this. there are already mounts in place for the master cylinder. You will need to cut the shifter hole. Follow the line that's already there. (Once you pull the shifter off you will see what I'm talking about) Remove the vacuum line that leads to the transmission, and replace the connector on the intake manifold with the manual trans. one. (I prefer this to plugging the open hole) The pedals are the biggest PITA is my opinion. Good luck.

I'll have to take a look at mine soon, I've never been happy with the feel of the stock brakes..

I've owned 5 in total. 85 300ZX 87 300ZX 85 300ZX turbo 88 300ZX NA2T in progress 75 280Z Daily driver Still have the 88 and 75. And 3 other Datsun.

AS far as the transmission goes, this is what the shifter looks like on a T5 And in this pic it's a T5 on the left (note the 3 piece housing) and a Nissan V71C on the right (note the 2 piece housing) It's pretty easy to tell a T5 apart from a Nissan trans. I can't recall what the rear end differences were. I had an 87 before, but it saw NA so none of that applied to mine. I do have a document detailing the engine differences if that's of any use to you. Hope this helped a little.

Oh, and be careful.

Take it to a car wash and use the pressure nozzle there. it should be all dried up by the time you get it back home.

Check out these two links. They should cover everything for getting the ZX unit to work properly, just incase you don't upgrade. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html Also, I'm pretty sure the modifications made to use the ZX dizzy are the same ones required to use the petronix or crane unit. I'd recommend either rebuilding the dizzy you have, or pulling one from a junkyard. They work great when all the components are intact.

I'd bet it's the water temp sensor. Most of the time when they go bad they make you run insanely rich, too rich to start. I had a massive headache from a bad temp sensor last year right as I was replacing other fuel system components. rockauto.com has them for pretty cheap. Good luck.

Good luck on the build. My DD since late 09 has been a Ninja 636. It's nice to have excessive amounts of power when you want. Keep us all posted on your progress.

I just had the same problem. Its the windshield seal. Water slowly seeps through the bottom corner areas of the windshield and then rolls down the firewall and soaks the carpets on both sides of the car. I live in AZ and had never had this problem before because its never rained that much while I've owned the car. But when we got hit with several days of insane rain I got shown all the leaky spots of my Z. We had a tornado warning as well.

That set up you ordered and larger sway bars will probably get you what you want.

Both are used when lowering the car. Bump steer spacers bring your front control arms and tension rods down a bit to correct their range of travel. Anytime you lower a Z31 more than a half an inch or so it throws the rear camber off. This problem is usually corrected by slotting the trailing arms mounting points. I lowered mine jus over an inch and I definitely need to correct the negative camber in the rear. It wears out the inside of the tires way too fast.

Looks like a fun project. Good luck with the rust.

The non turbo 84's and 85's are 4 studs instead of 5. I got 1 inch spacers years ago for my 87, and now 88 and have loved them ever since. I guess they are technicly adapters. They bolt onto the existing hub and have studs that come out of the body. They brought the tires flush with the edges of the fender. I think its a better option than longer studs. Just my 2 cents.

Your alternator should be on the passenger side on the 87's. You only have to relocate it if its on the driver side(84-86). Check out RedZ31.net

Z's are worth traveling for. I flew from Phoenix to SanDiego for the 87 I used to have.

Parts needed from a turbo car: Driver side exhaust manifold, turbo, O2 housing elbow, down pipe, engine crossmember, driver side engine mount bracket(the part that bolts to the block), intake piping, ECU, injectors, oil pan(or cut a hole and weld on a fitting for turbo oil return line), turbo oil feed and return lines, and that should be about it. I'm getting ready to do this same thing on my 88. Going to turbo the 9:1 pistons. Porting and polishing the heads now.

Z31parts.com for the poly spring seats. Maybe check out Summit for an oil cooler.

Congras on the Z. I love the 75's, they're so simple compared to the other 280Z's. I've been working on getting mine daily driver reliable since I got it ruing earlier this year. Picked it up from a friend who ran the motor out of oil. Dropped in another motor, rebuilt the entire brake system, fuel system is almost entirely new, tie rod ends, ball joints, and started on the bushings, etc, etc, etc.

Go take a look. I doubt you would be posting this if you weren't interested in the car. And 30 miles is nothing, especially for. $200 vehicle with 2 engines. I do 25 miles one way to work. Good luck!

Just wow.. Lol.

First take a look at the switches. They tend to fall apart sometimes. If they are fine, the motors are dead. I really hope its your switches, the motors are a PAIN! Good luck.

I was trying to edit my last post on here to correct something, but it wasn't letting me, so I deleted it and here we go. With more this time as well. The air regulator has a reed valve that closes when it gets hot. So on cold starts its open, allowing auxiliary air past the throttle body into the intake manifold, thus raising the idle. Its basically a fancy choke. Once it warms up, it closes. On my S30 there are two air connections on the throttle body, one before and one after the butterfly valve. Is that the same for the S130 motor? If so, and the air regulator has been removed, I would say make block off plates on the throttle body, get rid of the hose all together and put a small filter on the valve cover. I know the 280Z, and 280ZX FI system can be really finicky, especially when parts are removed. A good, and very reliable option is to switch to the Z31 FI system.

Differential carrier bushings.