ZR8ED Two Piece Belly pan project

[rp975]

Hey great updates thanks.

 

Cheers Rob

[ZR8ED]

Well, I've called it quits for the evening. I've done the last of the sanding of the foam, and I mixed up some resin and laid a bunch of cloth tonight. It does look a bit messy, and I quickly learned to stop touching the cloth after placing it. Wrapping it around the edges, and going underneath proved tricky, but I found a sneaky solution. I grabbed some tacks, and used them to "pin up" the cloth to the foam until it hardens.

 

I'll check it out tommorow. I haven't decided to keep up with the fibreglass cloth, or switch to the fibreglass strand filler. We'll see. I'm not sure how strong to make it. I will use the fibreglass cloth to wrap around behind the airdam to give it additional strength, and the rest will be supported with the belly pan. I will skim coat the entire thing with strand filler, to build up low spots, and then I will switch to a putty type filler (i haven't decided what to use yet.)

 

Thanks for the support!

[janaka]

This is just awesome. I'm very impressed with the ingenuity to get this done at home.

Very well done so far.

[psdenno]

I'm impressed! Most of us think about a project like this for a couple years and then take another year, or so, to make it happen. You determined what to do and then did it. I'm sure the finished project will be slick.

Dennis

[ZR8ED]

I'm still laying fibreglass cloth. I have improved my technique, and I'm finding it a bit easier to "add on to" and "build up". Last night I cut the cloth into smaller pieces, mixed up more resin, and got underneath the car, and began glassing the backside of the air dam, and in a few sections, I was able to wrap the cloth all the way around to the front. I have not completed the underside (facing straight down) That will be fun.

 

Oh I learned something as well. Test a larger area. It appears that activated resin kinda soaks in and softens up the foam a bit. Not a disaster, but I think I should have skim coated the foam with some type of filler/putty. Oh well not the end of the world. I haven't taken any more pics because it doesn't look like it has changed much. I will take more pics as I complete laying the fibreglass cloth.

 

BTW use gloves when laying glass.. lots of them. I had the latex type of gloves, and I changed them often. It helped keep the work area clean, as strands of glass come off the cloth as you handle it, and you can change them quickly if you "need" (read run out of) cut pieces of cloth, and need to cut some more before the resin hardens.

 

Sure is messy sticky stuff. I hope to be ready for paint on the weekend. I should have this wrapped up by the next weekend. I am only able to get out into the garage a couple of hours a day at best, but it sure feels great to work on the car again.

[ZR8ED]

No major updates. I finished laying the glass on the backside, and have a bit more to do on the underside. I can only work on a bit at a time, because I am working underneath the car, and I don't want any of it dripping on me, or me bumping into it, so I am only working on one half at a time.

 

Just looking through my posts, and this thread so far looks like it should be titled "customizing an aftermarket airdam". But this aero stuff is like Mike Kelly described. It is a "system", and this is turning more into a "front end aero" project. But this needs to happen, so I can mount the bellypan at the correct height. That height is the main crossmember. The pan will pass under, and it is also used as an attachment point for the pan as well. The airdam as it was, is not close enough to the ground. This should be a note to anyone else who wants a belly pan like I originally had, or am currently creating. My original pan mounted approx 3/4 of and inch higher than the lowest point on my "lawn edging strip" I still laugh when I say that! That measurement, put it at the same height as my crossmember.

 

The addition feels just about as strong as the rest of the airdam, so I'm getting close. I will probably pickup the aluminum I need this week. I have imbedded a few ss bolts into the airdam (sticking through to the backside. tightend with a nut and then glassed over just leaving a ss stud showing), and will use them to attach some kind of bracket that the pan will mount to. I am designing this to make removal for servicing the engine as easy as reasonable.

[260DET]

Whats the proposed relationship of the undertray to the ground? That is, is it parallel, higher at the front....? And why?

 

As you know this aspect is relevant to downforce.

[ZR8ED]

260DET: At this point in time, my suspension has a slight rake to it (lower in front) not much, but it is there. With that in mine, I am shooting to make the pan parallel, but using the assumption that the car is sitting level. I have the car off the ground, so I can't measure using the ground as a reference, so I am using the frame rails and crossmember to determine "level" with the crossmember. So once the car is back on the ground, it will be slightly lower in the front.. maybe a half inch (over the length of the car.) so the rake will be no more than 1-2 degrees (guessing)

[ZR8ED]

Well this custom bodywork is tedious stuff. I have completed the glass work, and am working on filling and shaping, and sanding, sanding, sanding, whoops too much sanding, filling, sanding. Well you get the idea. Progess is slower than thought, but going ok. Getting the shape going up the sides towards the lower fenders is very tough. It is all curves, and is hard to get it right. I'm pretty busy with work this week (happy to be working these days) so I will try and get some new pics up later this week.

[260DET]

Looking forward to seeing the final product, seems like its going to be a model for others to follow which is always a good thing. Covering the font face of the tyres is something of particular interest because stock airdams rarely do this when wider wheels/track are involved.

 

All we need now is a definitive aero undertray that incorporates effective yet practical downforce generators. Practical in that they don't get damaged on the first speed bump they encounter

[ZR8ED]

Well I finally had some time to move ahead with the project. I've got the airdam smoothed and shaped to my liking. I have given it a shot of primer so I can do some of the final spot touchups. I am still glassing the backside of the airdam, so I can get an even shape to mount the belly pan to.

 

Working on the backside has not been easy. Its very awkward, and I can only work on a bit at a time until it dries. Once I get it cleaned up, I will paint everything, and then build the "flare extensions" I've been planning how to build them, taking what I now know, and improving on it. They will be constructed from aluminum with more foam to make the shape, and fibreglass to make them solid. They will be "bolt on"

 

It may not look like it has changed much, but here is an updated pic.

 

[Evan Purple240zt]

Big change! Man, lookin' good Scott. You should be proud.

[ZR8ED]

I got back to glassing the underside after reconsidering my design. In the past, the belly pan mounted to the back of the airdam. The "stock aftermarket" airdam did not have much of a lip on the underside. My mods have the "lip" with a smooth (working on getting smooth) underside, which is approx 2-21/2" wide. I was planning on mounting the pan to the backside just like before, which is why I was shaping the backside of the air dam to have a smooth edge to make my tracer.

 

What i am thinking now is if I spend a bit more time on the underside, that flat edge would make a nice mounting point for the aluminum pan. In other words, the aluminum would butt up against this "lip" I will still use my imbeded bolts to secure it, but then looking up from the ground to the bottom of the car, the pan would cover the bottom lip of the airdam, and there would be zero gaps/transitions. The only concern I have is that water may get forced in between the airdam and the aluminum, and just sit there. I may not rust, but trapped water is not a good idea. Another minor concern is that looking from the front of the car, you would see the front edge of the aluminum pan under the airdam. This would force me to ensure the aluminum stays nice and flat and/or I may have to use a thin strip of moulding to give it a finished look. I have used some thin door gaurd edging with my aluminum metal work, and it looks pretty good.

 

I will keep working with this in mind and fall back to my original plan of starting the pan just behind the lip if I can't get it to work.

 

[1 tuff z]

scott, looks great so far. have you considered extending the alum 'belly pan' forward of the air dam, in 'duck bill' style that some of the cars sport now? that would solve your 'finishing' dilemma.

[AkumaNoZeta]

Also instead of bolting it under the flat edge, you could mount it on top of the front edge, inside the air dam, couldn't you? I think that would be more aerodynamic too since it will be more of a "step" instead of the edge of the aluminum kinda like ramming the air...then again probably wouldn't be the least noticeable either way.

[ZR8ED]

I can't mount it above the "new lower edge", but it would have been a good idea. I may consider a "duckbill". I will play with the old belly pan and check it out before I start cutting my new pan.

 

Here is a crappy drawing of a sideview of the airdam. Black line is old, red line is the add on.

 

I am looking forward to finishing off this part and get back to the sheet aluminum work (which I prefer because it is easier to hide any mistakes hehe) Anyone opinions of using rockerguard materials/paint? I already pick up chips easy with the fibreglass airdam, and I"m thinking of using some of this stuff to protect the lower edge...Now that I don't have my disposable lawn edging.

[ZROSSA]

Why not just make the pan out of glass and then bond it.

 

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6311&limit=views

 

Easy to do, find a flat surface lay up some glass. Bit of structural foam and then glassover it again.

 

This angle is the top of the pan as seen from the engine bay.

 

Douglas

[Dan Juday]

...Anyone opinions of using rockerguard materials/paint? I already pick up chips easy with the fibreglass airdam, and I"m thinking of using some of this stuff to protect the lower edge...Now that I don't have my disposable lawn edging.

 

Scott, after my car was first painted I got a ton of chips in the airdam and the front of the rear fender flares. When the paint failed (don't ask) and the painter repainted it (on his dime with no argument. Good man.) I applied the clear 3M paint guard material. Absolutely no chips with the 3M product. It's a lot of work to apply, and pricey stuff, but nothing near the cost of a re-spray.

[Mikelly]

Best advice in this whole thread... I just stripped every piece of clear bra film off my Porsche and found GORGIOUS paint under it. The clear bra had withstood 28 days worth of track abuse and was looking beat, and I was thinking I'd need to respray the black beauty... Now I don't think so, other than the rock chips on the hood...

 

ANY of the clear film that protects the paint is worth the expense. Just make sure the car is fully detailed before you apply it, so the shine in the paint will show thru the 3m Coating.

 

Mike

 

Scott, after my car was first painted I got a ton of chips in the airdam and the front of the rear fender flares. When the paint failed (don't ask) and the painter repainted it (on his dime with no argument. Good man.) I applied the clear 3M paint guard material. Absolutely no chips with the 3M product. It's a lot of work to apply, and pricey stuff, but nothing near the cost of a re-spray.

[ZR8ED]

Small update. The weather outside is beautiful, and it is easier to relax in the pool than get dusty in the garage. (It is going to be a lot of work to clean the garage after this) Dust is EVERYWHERE.

 

I got some touchups completed on the airdam, and it is ready for me to reprime. I have the underside cleaned up and as smooth as I think it needs to be be. I have taken the car down off the stands, and it looks MEAN...er. I started to fab up the "mini" flare extensions that will continue the sides of the airdam up the fender. I am using cardboard for this part, and working on the mounting points as well.

 

Once those two pieces are complete, I will breakout the spray gun and shoot some black.

 

THEN I will build my aluminum pan template. I have used my old pan as a guide to help me visualize the new pan. I am going to mount it underneath the "lip" and bring it to the edge, and not extend it like a duckbill.

 

My timeline is being extended with "while I'm at it" but I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Not sure how I will paint the front end with the dusty condition in the garage. I may take it to a friends house, or maybe just "go for it" and do an early morning spray out front of the garage. I'll play it by ear because it would likely take me a day or three to get the garage acceptable again to paint in.