HOTWYR Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 OK so i have been doing a bit of research over the past 6 months and as hard as i try i have difficulty finding stuff on the net about prices and the right parts etc. I'm better at building a motor:D So i have decided to make a thread on the work and cost of a l28 stroker, and i need everyone's help. Not only to help me with my up and coming build (L32ETT)but to help others too considering it, i don't want everyone wandering around blind having no idea on what parts are best suited for what, what the prices are, and eventually them getting in over there head, so i need everyone to post up the following info or pm me with it PLEASE! Need the following info on L28 stroker, n/a and turbo(twin turbo incl.): FOR N/A PATH -Block best suited to stroke from 3 to 3.2L (F54?), prices etc. -Heads suited for what jobs, prices. -Injectors, headers and carbs info, again prices. -Cranks, Rods, Pistons etc. for stroker (LD28?), prices -Cams for different jobs (torque or hp, mix), prices -Different Gearboxes for L28 convertion into different models and which suited for best job(drag, drift, track, street), prices. -Different LSD's for different jobs, prices. FOR TURBO PATH (twin or single) -Block best suited to sroke form 3 to 3.2L (heard F54 best for this), prices -Suitable heads for turboing and different uses, whether ported and polishing needed for the different heads, prices. -Cranks, Rods, Pistons etc. for stroker (LD28?), prices -Cams for different jobs (torque or hp, mix), prices -Injectore or carbs for what jobs (don't say whats best based on PERSONAL preferences), prices. -What gearboxes best suited and hp and torque strengths, prices. -Turbo's and Manifolds, piping etc, diffent hp and torque increases(Greddy, hks or standerd ones from different cars, include codes and sizes), prices. -LSD's for different jobs, prices. Links are also SUPER HELPFULL, if you've done a stroker convert put up info, if you someone that has ask them to put it up too. thanks Hotwyr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Well all of your parts are very vauge. Example, there are $150 headers and $700 headers. Which one are you wanting? Things need to be alot more specific. What about all your hardware, studs/head bolts, gaskets. Not sure how close you want for a budget. I can atleast say the following... F54/N42 block- You should be able to find a block for under $150. That would include going to the junkyard, driving somewhere to pick one up for cheap, buying one locally for way to much, driving to pick one up for free, etc. Ive gotten rid of 2 block (n42 and f54) I scrapped one, and sold the other for $50. Overall their cheap. Turbo Exhaust Manifold- Good condition, no cracks, usually goes for $50-80. Ive sold one in that range, seen many other in that range. Expect to pay around that. Ive seen them go higher and lower but most are around that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTWYR Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 See i am aiming for a thread that showcases all prices and parts that are of top quality ie. WONT BRAKE IN 30 SECOND ON TRACK! and are the most adaptable/reliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorhs02 Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I agree with Challenger about being specific. I dont know jack really about those things, Ive dabbled into each one of those areas, but never get very far due to my own preferences...Im currently doing bodywork on my Z. I would recommend however, to search on one specific area of your post at a time...dont try and search for everything all at once...becuz you will get no where thata way! What are your overall goals?...Where do you want to end up? Also...stating the obvious...allot a good deal of money for unexpected costs...theres nothing like a nice costly suprise, right in the middle of your build...to throw a wrench in the gears! Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 You kinda got a double post thing going on..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Somebody hasn't read most of the threads in this particular forum.... First, if you want to go turbo, stop at 3.0L. 3.1, 3.2, etc all have very thin cylinder walls, and will not last as long tubrocharged, if at all. Second, it has been said multiple times, the EARLY N42 block is more than likely going to be best for this application. The 1975-1976 blocks have a higher nickle content (rumored by SBF guys to make a stronger block, makes sense since high nickle makes for a more ductile metal) AND if what has been posted here by others with access to sonic testing equipment is true, has the thickest cylinder walls of the L28 blocks. All in all, Get YOUR Block sonic tested first. KNOW how thick your walls are. This is the only way to pick a block for an uber-build. The recipe for the higher-displacement blocks varies, my 2.9L engine has a 88mm bore, and a standard L28 crank. I use off the shelf pistons from ITM, and 9mm L24 rods with arp main studs and rod bolts. MY COST for this block was as follows: Block: 160$, included price of block, bore and hone, and sonic testing. After the bore, I ended up with 3.9mm-4.2mm thick cylinder walls, which I deemed adequete. Crank: 12$, came as part of the block. Magnafluxed. Pistons: 230$. ITM PN #RY6116, original app nissan LZ22S engine. came with rings and pins. Rods: 120$. 9mm L24, magnafluxed. Fasteners: ARP main studs were 151$. rod bolts were 59$. YOUR COST WILL BE HIGHER, prices on all of this have gone up, and i used cast pistons for my N/A build. Expect to spend double or more. ALL of this information easily could have been found by reading the last 60 or so pages of this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 See i am aiming for a thread that showcases all prices and parts that are of top quality ie. WONT BRAKE IN 30 SECOND ON TRACK! and are the most adaptable/reliable This is an impossibility, anybody who has spent time on the track knows there is nothing regardless of cost, that can't 'go away' in 30 seconds on the track when you least expect it! Also...what 'track'---that build which is suitable for a drag engine would never hold up for a 24 hour enduro event or boat service (don't laugh, there are L-Series Boats out there!) And that which is suitable for Weekend AutoX may be too light duty for open track use on longer sessions (like mini batteries and flyweight alternators with poor regulation on a heavy EFI-Dependent System). I mean, what is your specific application? What is 'good' for you will likely not be for the next guy unless he's doing exactly what you're doing...and what's the chance of that??? Is this basically 'What are the best parts for this type of build?' kind of thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 (edited) I'm closing this thread: most if not all this info has already been discussed in various threads. This thread is trying to vaguely cover so many different topics at once, I urge the original poster to do some reading, and ask specific questions in a new thread. Edited June 6, 2009 by Drax240z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts