kon Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Hi Guys, I am new to this site as a memeber, but i been checking out the site for a while now. Tons of helpful info here . I am thinking about starting a V8 project. The car in mind is a 75 260, that i may get for free. I am going to go and take a look at it. Will post pics this weekend. How much does the average build cost? I want to use the JTR kit and will be using SBC and T5. I know what it costs to source the engine and tranny, but i need help to figure out the rest. Basically to have the car drive and shift and have working gauges. I have done research on suspension and brakes. EDITED: Thanks for the replies. What i am looking for is just to get the car running and drivable. I am stricktly looking for the cost to mount engine, all cooling and exhaust. The correct rear (r200), driveshaft ect.. Also the chasis (what shoudl be done and how much). I have access to a welder and plasma cutter. Goal it to have a daily driver that can handle and stop well at the end. I will be doing all work myself. Any help is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 There isn't an "average build cost" because everyone's projects are so different. Sure, we might all be sticking a SBC into a Z, but the condition of the motor, the condition of the car, personal goals, standards, time frames, budgets, etc. all play a huge role in the final outcome. First you need to set a few basic project goals, and then you need to make a plan to achieve those goals. How much power are we looking for? How do we want it to look? How long do we have to do it? How much do we need to learn before we can do it? etc. Once you have your plan, make a parts list with prices, and get a rough estimate of time it's going to take to complete it. Now, triple the cost and double the time - this gives a more accurate picture of what it's really going to take. You're going to run into unanticipated things along the way that are going to cost you a lot of both time and money, and there are a lot of easily overseen costs that will "nickle and dime" you to death. You can have a v8 Z for less than a grand if you're okay with sticking in a 350 and a th350 from some old van that ran, but if you're going to build something nicer it's going to cost a lot more. It all boils down to two things... 1. desires 2. budget Always remember the golden rule about cars: "Fast, cheap, and reliable -- pick two!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N20Jeep Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 well i bought my shell for 500 my motor for 500+200 for the carb driveshaft cost me 60 TH350 cost me 100 w/ converter and misc welding cost around 100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBZ Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I would say that most people with a "clean" SBC swap probably have at least 7-10k in their car. As with any swap you have to look at the systems that have to be changed or upgraded. Fuel system, cooling system, exhaust etc..... Make a dream list of parts you need to buy then add 25-30% to that figure. Just my .02 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted July 7, 2009 Administrators Share Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) As you've seen, you're going to get a spectrum of answers. Goals/ideals/tolerances differ, as cockerstar alluded. You'll need to come to your own conclusions and discipline. It's not a pass/fail kind of question. Here's a budget oriented example, done a few years back... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118146 Edited July 7, 2009 by RTz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kon Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks man. That is exactly i was looking for. I know i can't get a dead on answer, but this is perfect. Keep them coming guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleakdragonmage Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 well i bought my shell for 500my motor for 500+200 for the carb driveshaft cost me 60 TH350 cost me 100 w/ converter and misc welding cost around 100 yea, but its the nickle/dime ♥♥♥♥ that gets you... I think i have around 1500 in my 350 swap into my Z31...most of it was all the little stuff too...it freaking adds up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 The biggest cost is not the parts that you installed, but the parts that did not fit, that broke, that would not function well together, that had to be replaced/rebuilt etc. If this were a step-by-step assembly exercise, then costs could be accurately estimated and kept under control. But it's not! It is a RESEARCH PROJECT, even if you follow the JTR plans. Why? Because unless you are a seasoned mechanic, you will frequently run into costly dead ends and will overlook seemingly minor anomalies that cascade into critical failures. Also keep in mind that few swaps have a genuinely stock engine. Add the cost and frustration of building a custom engine to building a custom car. Yes, there are shining examples of superb builds at low cost, but for each of those I would wager that there are five >$10K cars still on jackstands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnum380Z Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Mike i believe what you say is true ,but if a guy followed the JTR manual by going out and purchasing the Donor car with 350/700R4 or whatever combo it has and not concentrating on building a "killer Motor". The swap would get done faster and would be more in line with a decent budget. he would then have a car that he could enjoy and not be Money pit IMHO....later down the road ad the Goodies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleakdragonmage Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 The biggest cost is not the parts that you installed, but the parts that did not fit, that broke, that would not function well together, that had to be replaced/rebuilt etc. So true. Just remember to keep all your reciepts and packaging so you can take stuff back. I didnt, but luckily the autozone people know me now because ive been in so often. I have to return a good couple hundred dollars in stuff, and exhchange some things b/c of unforseen hickups.(such as having to switch to a short water pump setup to move my alt. so i can use my powersteer line.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 in all honesty. If your swapping a v8 into your z with no mechanical experience and don't research it, your just plain ignorant or dumb (or adventurous). the v8 swap has been EXTREMELY well documented since the mid 70's and swap kits have been available since then too. I don't really see where you could run into a "costly dead end" with a carb'd v8 swap, especially a sbc. unless once again you just went on a spending spree in the summit catalog. heres the total amount it costs to have a driveline built for my z. custom spec'd engine, built, assembled and running in the car using new parts (minus the block and heads) $3267.74 my trans and converter where new which totaled $415.68 custom scratch built driveshaft was $160 total for the swap on the road driving was $3842.42 thats including every nut and bolt for the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 kon: First depends upon the condition of the Z car. I purchased a 1971 240Z and it had some neglect. After fixing most of the neglect it is a pretty good vehicle. It must have been hit in the right front and the passengers floor is bent upward. Still have to set up special tooling to figure out how much out of line it is. Once you get used to the 260/280Z the biggest problem will be your level of skill in fabricating and fixing. The cost will depend upon what condition and quality you are looking for in the final product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 "I don't really see where you could run into a "costly dead end" with a carb'd v8 swap" Here's how.... - get a running engine from a junked vehicle. Decide that because it came from a truck, it would be a wise move to swap the cam (mild hydraulic flat-tappet). I mean, who wouldn't change the cam when swapping an engine from a 70's truck??? Do the swap, break in the cam... and promptly wipe it. - tear down the engine and find metal shavings all over the place, from the wiped cam and lifter lobes. - do a complete rebuild. Home-port the heads. Porting job goes well. Take it to a local shop with a flow bench. Flow bench test shows decent results. Take heads to machine shop for pressing-in new valve guides. Machine shop promptly cracks the heads. - buy new aftermarket aluminum heads. Might as well get a nice custom-ground mechanical roller cam. And an adjustable timing set for said cam. - assemble engine. Runs fine. Remove cam cover for some tuning... and find that the bolts on the adjustable timing set backed out, ate into the aluminum timing cover and sent shavings all over the engine. Rebuild #2? And I know of a fellow on this site - who I consider to be nearly a professional-quality mechanic, with a gorgeous Z - who went through at least THREE rebuilds - all on a fairly basic carbed SBC (OK, mine was a BBC). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 "I don't really see where you could run into a "costly dead end" with a carb'd v8 swap" Here's how.... - get a running engine from a junked vehicle. Decide that because it came from a truck, it would be a wise move to swap the cam (mild hydraulic flat-tappet). I mean, who wouldn't change the cam when swapping an engine from a 70's truck??? Do the swap, break in the cam... and promptly wipe it. - tear down the engine and find metal shavings all over the place, from the wiped cam and lifter lobes. - do a complete rebuild. Home-port the heads. Porting job goes well. Take it to a local shop with a flow bench. Flow bench test shows decent results. Take heads to machine shop for pressing-in new valve guides. Machine shop promptly cracks the heads. - buy new aftermarket aluminum heads. Might as well get a nice custom-ground mechanical roller cam. And an adjustable timing set for said cam. - assemble engine. Runs fine. Remove cam cover for some tuning... and find that the bolts on the adjustable timing set backed out, ate into the aluminum timing cover and sent shavings all over the engine. Rebuild #2? And I know of a fellow on this site - who I consider to be nearly a professional-quality mechanic, with a gorgeous Z - who went through at least THREE rebuilds - all on a fairly basic carbed SBC (OK, mine was a BBC). I'm sorry man, but that goes more along the lines of inexperienced engine building, to have a new cam wipe out, after propery breaking it in, i have seen it, but he had an oil pump failure at 7500 RPM. those three situations where more bad experiences than somebody going and buying a bunch of different parts from different people which dont work together. It all boil's down to how experienced/ignorant the person building the motor/car is. Do you kinda see where I'm coming from here? maybe I'm just lucky i havent blown an engine yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Yes, the key is experience. A person with an extensive record in automotive mechanics could indeed do a mild Z V8 swap without much tribulation or cost. But would such a person need to ask routine questions about parts interchange, fitment, cost, etc.? No. Such people simply show up on Hybridz one day, annoucing their build. For many people here, the Z is their first foray into automotive mechanics, beyond changing brake pads and alternators. But as I posted above, even veteran mechanics can run into serious problems with ostensibly basic builds. Don't disregard the luck factor! And speaking of wiped cams, the Chevy big block is notorious for them. The owner of one of local hot rodding shops, Kammer and Kammer (Huber Heights, Ohio) freely admits that he has suffered cam lobe wipes in customers' cars far too regularly. He is far from inexperienced, and every such mistake costs him financially. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Yes, the key is experience. A person with an extensive record in automotive mechanics could indeed do a mild Z V8 swap without much tribulation or cost. But would such a person need to ask routine questions about parts interchange, fitment, cost, etc.? No. Such people simply show up on Hybridz one day, annoucing their build. For many people here, the Z is their first foray into automotive mechanics, beyond changing brake pads and alternators. But as I posted above, even veteran mechanics can run into serious problems with ostensibly basic builds. Don't disregard the luck factor! And speaking of wiped cams, the Chevy big block is notorious for them. The owner of one of local hot rodding shops, Kammer and Kammer (Huber Heights, Ohio) freely admits that he has suffered cam lobe wipes in customers' cars far too regularly. He is far from inexperienced, and every such mistake costs him financially. touche, I think luck does play a factor like you said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaliceIntent Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 im at about $3k and i dont even have an engine in the car yet. if cost is a big factor in the build, its best to avoid the 'while im at it' spiral of death. Also prolly best to purchase a running or even crate motor, a full rebuild can get costly. personally im going to sell off my performance engine parts ive been collecting and go with a crate motor. i wish i would have gone crate from the beginning. i also wish i wouldnt have stripped my rust free 240z down to the frame 'while i was at it' lol. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domenic Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 I was about to buy the 350, but then I found the RB and said WHY NOT !!! Good luck to all yall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOBBY BATES Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Some may laugh at this but this is the way I look at it.Don't worry about the cost just save and buy as you can, if your worried about cost you don't need a z -car cause it is going to be like your next new kid to take care of..may take you longer to build but it will be right....If I had to guess what I've got in mine it would be almost $20k...thats $12-14k in engine and drivetrain,but I can jump in the car drive it around town and still run 9.00 @ 150 mph plus..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.