Jump to content
HybridZ

Research on building up a L28 Stroker


Khamie

Recommended Posts

Hi All

 

Firstly; I want to say yes I have searched a lot trust me, (or maybe I just didn’t search in the right places) well ok thing is I searched and got loads of information

 

Secondly; what I want out of this Is the finer information, I know about the 89mm bore, the forged pistons, the LD28 crank or even the more expansive fully counter Wight one’s, and the L14 rods

 

But I don’t know the finer detail like what intake to run must I run triple Weber carbs or delortos must I used ITB;s

 

What head gasket should I used and what thickness what octane should be used when racing and what should be used for normal driving

 

What head work needs to be done. How much mm can I take of the head to increase the compression what is the optimal compression for both strip and everyday use

 

I know that the structure of this post is a bit mixed up, but all your efforts are gladly appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was looking for this info too. The info in your post is about all I could find when searching. I dont remember right off-hand what the compression ratio is, but I believe I figured 89 octane would be good. I think I've read that properly tuned SUs will flow enough to get great performance, but definitely not going to get you the most power you can get with the stroker. I started losing interest mostly due to the cost. Dropping an N/A mostly-stock V8 302 or larger is going to give about the same power as you can max out at with an N/A stroker, and cost several $100s less. We'll see if I got anything wrong here and someone corrects me :mrgreen:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

very nice flatblack! Now if it just had a $ amount next to each :D

 

btw Khamie, what is your HP goal? I have a 280 engine that is stock except that I have SUs instead of the FI it came with, so I figure I am getting around 130-140HP based on original specs. I'm shooting for around 200HP, which I think an N/A stroker can do. I have really low gears and my Z is a 1970(lightest), so it already runs like a scared rabbit :burnout:, I'd just like to have a good bit more on tap without getting myself into trouble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just look up a price for a SBC 350 cam, then go look up the price for a 'Stage 3' or whatever L28 cam. You'll be blown away...

 

Oh.. no doubt that a V8 is more bang for the buck, especially SBC 350. A stroker 6 compared to a V8 is dollars to the penny. There's just something unique about popping the hood and showing that 6, as well as knowing you blew away a mustang or camaro while having a smaller, still N/A, engine. Ain't HP/Weight ratio a beautiful thing? :mrgreen:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh.. no doubt that a V8 is more bang for the buck, especially SBC 350. A stroker 6 compared to a V8 is dollars to the penny. There's just something unique about popping the hood and showing that 6, as well as knowing you blew away a mustang or camaro while having a smaller, still N/A, engine. Ain't HP/Weight ratio a beautiful thing? :mrgreen:

 

That's true, and the sound of some tripples on there...

 

Hey, if you have the $$$ go for it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to get high CR, I'd just go with an N47 head, that way you wont have to deal with shaving the head to up the CR and then having to re-shim the cams and lash pads to compensate for a thinner head.

 

You technically don't have to run any specific kind of induction. There are strokers built that have worked over SU's and there are some that have full bore, ITB set-ups. It's really your preference. If it were me though, I really like the sound of trip side drafts. It's not the cheapest option but it does have infinite adjustability, and more response than other carb options. You could look into ITB's or just a Nissan plentum would work with Megasquirt or another EMS.

 

As far as head porting, it really depends on what kind of power you're looking to make, what cam you're planning on running, and what your budget it. BRAAP and 1 Fast Z both professionally port these heads and either of them would be substantially more qualified to answer this question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Rolling Parts
But I don’t know the finer detail like what intake to run must I run triple Weber carbs or delortos.....what octane should be used when racing and what should be used for normal driving...

 

It depends.

That's why "Searching" for specifics is tough because everyone does things a little differently, has a different budget, and different goals.

 

Don't worry about carbed or EFI since all either is there to do is to dump enough fuel in to match the airflow. Since you won't be using a turbo then airflow will be limited to what he pistons can suck in. At 100% efficiency and 7000 rpm all you need to supply fuel for is about 400cfm (see the carb calculator at http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html ). A pair of 200 CFM or three 130 CFM carb bodies is kinda low flow.

 

Octane depends on the head design you use, CR, timing, etc. Suffice it to say that you can say good bye to using 87 pump gas!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's true, and the sound of some tripples on there...

 

Hey, if you have the $$$ go for it!

 

I think the sound of triple mikunis, and then those same mikunis having the throttles slam shut when I see the cruiser, has gotten me out of more than one speeding ticket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the sound of triple mikunis, and then those same mikunis having the throttles slam shut when I see the cruiser, has gotten me out of more than one speeding ticket.

 

 

???? How do things work on the west coast????

 

I'm very sure the sound of a cam lope and my webers have gotten me into a speeding ticket or two..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, the sound of them letting my engine scream is what got me into trouble, but the sounds the engine made after I got pulled over (and the look under the hood) turned me from 'crazy ricer' to 'old car enthusiast' in their book. It was night, I was being stupid on what I thought was an empty road, and got stopped for it. They liked the condition/setup of the car though, told me not to speed, and said since all they actually had on me was the sound as I went by, that they weren't going to write me up a ticket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Watsup ppl

 

Thanks for all the good information guys

 

Well ok to be honest I don’t want to be the fastest I don’t want to do a ¼ in 9’s all I want is a nice reliable L28 stroked motor but I want to be able to run in the 12’s and I still want to be able to drive my car to the mall width out getting pulled over

 

But my questions still remain un answered

 

Thanks again for all the information

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What intake/fuel delivery system you run is almost entirely up to you, with the caveat that with a wilder cam, you will likely have to use either ITBs or a carb setup that is similar (Webers, Mikuni, etc, with a single throat per cylinder).

 

Alot of it comes down to budget. If you don't want to drop alot on fuel delivery, go with roundtop SUs that are properly sized and tuned. If you have a bit more $ to spend, go with mikunis or webers. If you don't care how much it costs, and just want it to run awesome all the time, get a EFI ITB setup.

 

Your headgasket/decking/shaving question is really dependent on what octane you *can* run. I honestly have no idea what they have in SA. Generally people here run in the 9.X:1 range for performance NA L series motors, and advance the ignition a fair bit to compensate (30-35 degrees seems normal). L series engines don't really like compression beyond that for street gas. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ is a great starting resource for any build. If you want to go turbocharged, 8.5 is generally considered good for a low-medium boost street setup. Some guys on here though that are going for stupid amounts of power are running down into the 7.5:1 range.

 

As for the amount of headwork that should be done: As much as you can afford I'd say. There are some NA Z cars out there making *very* good whp/L numbers because of the amount of headwork that has been done. At the end of the day, air + fuel is what makes all the power, so the more you can get into the chamber, the better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The power is in the head, Period. Spend the money on the head and properly getting it flowing. After that, it's just a matter of how hard you want to run it, and how high you want to twist it.

 

The head makes the power. The rest is simply durability/longevity-based.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...