77turboz Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 The parts are raining in and the old tired motor is out. John at JCI sounded really cool on the phone when I asked my 20 questions about his motor swap. I sent out all those money orders, first one for my 2005 5.3 l33 with 63k on it. In case you don't know what the l33 is, here is an excerpt from GM "RPO L33, a lighter, higher output variant of the Vortec 5300 that became available on short bed, extended cab Silverado and Sierra models in 2005, features an aluminum engine block; cylinder heads from the LS6 that were originally developed for the Z06 Corvette; and a high-lift cam." Then, one for the 99 camaro t56 with new 2nd & 3rd gears , shift pads , carbon fiber blocker rings , syncros , upgraded aluminium shift fork to steel and output shaft seal. Custom shifter Internal springs modified so you wont ever miss 3rd gear. Steven at SSP wiring is hooking me up with a base ls1 harness with the addition of the drive by wire setup and a custom hp tuned ls1 pcm which was a modification to the drive by wire parameters to gain about 20 hp from stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorenc Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 The 300HP L33 was originally intended for the SSR but when folks weren't happy with the performance on the first 2 years model production they started putting 390HP LS2's in the SSR's instead starting in '05. So some other lucky 1500 series GM trucks began getting the L33 instead. Steven at SSP wiring is hooking me up with a base ls1 harness with the addition of the drive by wire setup. When you say 'LS1' harness I hope you are just being general because a true LS1 harness will have different injector clips (among other differences) than on your L33. Your L33 will also need a TAC module for the DBW to work correctly with a stock DBW pedal. Corvettes and GTO's didn't have a TAC modules because the DBW pedal pigtail plugged directly into the rest of the engine harness and the PCM controlled all the TAC module functions. I don't think (although not 100% sure) that the DBW pedals and DBW TB's between trucks and Vettes/GTO's will interchange as far as both connections and how the PCM or TAC modules controls them. You might want to check into that on LS1tech.com or the like before you buy something you don't need or won't work in your app. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 well, steven told me he has everything to make the drive by wire work with the ls1 harness. Im using an ls1 intake, but I have been struggling back and forth between going elec throttle or not. I think that my first idea of going elec throttle was that I would have better throttle response but now Im thinking with this much hp that a touchy throttle might not be the best idea. I am just not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 I just bought my ls1 intake from a 2000 Corvette with ported Elec Throttle Body and MAF. It comes with the stock 26# injectors and fuel rail so I am getting closer to having all my parts. The motor showed up today but I wont have pics of it until this weekend. The tranny should be getting shipped out this week. I will be buying a lightened chromoly flywheel and stage 3 clutch/pressure plate assy. soon, which should help in the rpm department. I am hoping to break the 8000 rpm boundary on this motor. More to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I am hoping to break the 8000 rpm boundary on this motor. Good luck with that. Your stock lifters and valve springs alone will keep that from happening (lifter pumping up and valve float), not to mention your rod bolts will let go way before 8000 rpm anyway. Besides, unless you are running a HUGE cam and drag racing there is no reason to spin that motor above even 7000 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 ya, the 8000 is after I get the motor running the way I like it and get the car set up to go fast. I need suspension work and much wider, stickier tires before I am ready for the motor to run like that. Ive got a comp cams xr281 in store for this motor later, along with the rest of the go fast parts. A fast intake will compliment it nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 ya, the 8000 is after I get the motor running the way I like it and get the car set up to go fast. I need suspension work and much wider, stickier tires before I am ready for the motor to run like that. Ive got a comp cams xr281 in store for this motor later, along with the rest of the go fast parts. A fast intake will compliment it nicely. Getting the motor running the way you like it? Dude, I don't know how to get this across to you without being rude. Unless you are going to build an all out race motor you'll never see 8k rpm. Take a look around LS1tech.com, there are several 8 second rides and FEW of them buzz their motors to 8k, even with solid roller cams, sheet metal intakes, etc. There are more than a few limiting factors here. First hyd lifters generally won't rev that high, usually 7000k is the limit. Second stock rod bolts in your 5.3 won't live past 6500, they were never meant to go over 6000. The rods themselves won't live past 7000 even with the best ARP cap screws in place. Third, your stock heads won't breathe anywhere near 7000. Forth, your stock cam stops making power around 5600-5800 and the XR281 is a good all around cam, but won't make any power above 6500. Fifth, the stock cast pistons in your 5.3 will shatter like glass around 7000, if not before and if you can find a decent forged aftermarket piston it is likely it won't be rated past 7000 anyway. Sixth, even a 90mm FAST intake won't flow to 8000, and lets not get into what TB you'll need to get to 8000 either. I venture a guess that you are young and this is your first V8 swap project. No biggie, we all gotta start somewhere. I know you prob think I am trying to hold you down, but I am trying to help you by keeping your goals within reason and to help you avoid a costly mistake(s). There are many people on this board (and others) that have been doing this alot longer with tons more experence, it would be wise to listen when they are just trying to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 Please, let me explain. Im not trying to get into it. I have been hodrodding since I was 14 with my dad and I will soon be 22 on saturday. We have built quite a few sbc's over the years and none all that extreme, just your run of the mill street motors. After we break in the cam for 30 minutes, we take the car on its shakedown cruise and see what rpm the motor quits pulling at. My dad strongly believes that you break in the motor like your going to use the motor, and the last couple of cars we built get ragged on pretty hard. Anyways, the last one we built hit around 6800 before it started to float the valves. I figured just off these sbc's that I built, with a newer motor like the ls series it would be easier to get more rpm out of it. All that being said, the only reason why I want a high rpm motor is to stay along the same lines as the original datsun motor. Thats also the reason I am going with 3" single exhaust, but going elect. cutouts for performance situations. Its all about the feel of the car to me. I hope we can all get along. Later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I am hoping to break the 8000 rpm boundary on this motor. Better wear a flak jacket in the dyno room..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 If you want revs.. shoehorn in a S62 BMW v8 (8k rpms stock) not an SBC.. if you want power cheap(er) go SBC but dont expect JUDD V8 revs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 ok, so maybe I was shooting a little high on my rpm goal. simple over exaggeration on my part. Can we get back on topic? My engine showed up on Tuesday, but still no pics of how nice it looks. I think that this build is going to go really nice. I am shopping for the lightened flywheel, clutch and pp now. What do you guys do for the clutch cylinders? From what I understand, the stock slave from the camaro is the way to go, and then a tilton or equal 1" bore master? can I go less and still manage? I would like a decent amount of engagement, not just an on/off switch. Also, has anyone come up with another solution on the headers? What are the options there? I know about sanderson custom headers and the jtr headers(i think they have ls1's). On the fuel system, I plan on running the stock tank for the time being. I have seen a few guys that have stock tanks for a while now, with little to no trouble. I dont plan on racing the car on roadcourses for a while, Will I be alright with just replacing the stock pump with a high pressure, high volume pump and filter. I plan on plumbing in a corvette filter with built in regulator for ease of installation. Does anyone suggest using a pre pump filter? Hope to have some good pics up soon. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I'll answer what I know one question/topic at a time. I am shopping for the lightened flywheel, clutch and pp now. What do you guys do for the clutch cylinders? From what I understand, the stock slave from the camaro is the way to go, and then a tilton or equal 1" bore master? can I go less and still manage? I would like a decent amount of engagement, not just an on/off switch. I'm not much help on this part since I am an automatic man, Jay260z would prob know more. I'll have him take a look at this thread. Also, has anyone come up with another solution on the headers? What are the options there? I know about sanderson custom headers and the jtr headers(i think they have ls1's). As far as I know there are only two off the shelf options for LSx swap headers. First there are JTR's LSx headers (I am running the ceramic coated 1 5/8 version) which are made my Sanderson just for JTR and then there are one's JCI sells which are made for him as well by an unknown supplier. On the fuel system, I plan on running the stock tank for the time being. I have seen a few guys that have stock tanks for a while now, with little to no trouble. I dont plan on racing the car on roadcourses for a while. Your 280z tank will work better than the earlier 240/260 tanks since they are baffled. Many people use these tanks all the time without any issues as long as AutoX isn't your primary goal, even then as long as you keep the fuel level at 1/2 tank or higher you shouldn't haven't an issue. Will I be alright with just replacing the stock pump with a high pressure, high volume pump and filter. I plan on plumbing in a corvette filter with built in regulator for ease of installation. Does anyone suggest using a pre pump filter? If you run something like a Walbro 255 inline pump in the stock location you'll be good to go. The Corvette filter/regulator will also be fine (I am also running one). I am not running a pre-filter, but it wouldn't be a bad idea as long as its a low restriction design and intended for EFI apps. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 wow, you answers most of my q's. Thanks. how load is that 255 inline, cause Ive ran inlines before and hate the whine thats louder than the engine. now on the exhausts, are they long tube, mid, or shortys? Whats the outlet size? how much hp is your engine putting down? I dont know how soon I will be hit by the hp bug but if I can keep up with my dads z51 c6, I may be upgrading sooner than I think. He gives me so much crap that Im wasting my money, and even though I know he's joking, I just wanna rub it in his face. I know my car probably wont ever equal his car in class or refinement, but if I can pull away from him just once, and still get the good fuel mileage that he gets, I will be happy to see the look on his face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cable Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 wow, you answers most of my q's. Thanks. how load is that 255 inline, cause Ive ran inlines before and hate the whine thats louder than the engine. The Walbro is fairly quiet compared to something like Holley Red/Blue/Black pumps. now on the exhausts, are they long tube, mid, or shortys? Whats the outlet size? All LSx swap headers offered by JTR and JCI are shortys/block huggers. My JTR's have a 3" collector. how much hp is your engine putting down? I have no idea and I won't know until I have it dyno'd (not even planned). I dont know how soon I will be hit by the hp bug but if I can keep up with my dads z51 c6, I may be upgrading sooner than I think. He gives me so much crap that Im wasting my money, and even though I know he's joking, I just wanna rub it in his face. I know my car probably wont ever equal his car in class or refinement, but if I can pull away from him just once, and still get the good fuel mileage that he gets, I will be happy to see the look on his face. You might have a hard time beating your pops even after your Comp XR281 cam swap in your 5.3. Z51's run 12.4 STOCK which isn't surprising considering they make 436HP and 428 lb-ft torque out of the box. Lots of things will determine how quick your car could be, but if you added a 100-125 wet shot of nitrous and a bit of skilled driving, I don't think the Vette would be able to hang with you in the quarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted August 23, 2009 Author Share Posted August 23, 2009 I think it wont be too hard to lose some weight and get a few more ponies. Ive got about $3000 in it now, so I think Im doing pretty good on that end. I have around 2k to go for a good base setup, including radiator, wiring, ecm, fuel lines and pump, headers and exhaust, flywheel pp and clutch setup. I also need a new rear end as mine is whines like the inside of a roots blower. Is that less than what other people spend or more? thanks for all your advice so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 I got the engine in this weekend, its just a trial run because I didnt have the flywheel or oil pan. It fits real nice and looks drop dead sexy. I will be posting pics in a few days after I get them loaded to my computer. The blind nuts that come with the JCI kit for the trans crossmember didnt work at all so I had to bolt through the frame but other than that the swap went well. The shifter lined up exactly with the existing hole so no problems there. The drive shaft seems a little long though. Its almost bottomed out in the slip joint, about a 1/2 in away. If thats what everyone elses is like then Im fine with it, but I would like to know. Another little tidbit about the l33 truck motor, if you go with a electronic throttle, there is no need to change the water pump as it clears just fine. I will get some pics to show how close it is. That is one less part I have to buy. Now to get the pulleys figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1noel Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I got the engine in this weekend, its just a trial run because I didnt have the flywheel or oil pan. It fits real nice and looks drop dead sexy. I will be posting pics in a few days after I get them loaded to my computer. The blind nuts that come with the JCI kit for the trans crossmember didnt work at all so I had to bolt through the frame but other than that the swap went well. The shifter lined up exactly with the existing hole so no problems there. The drive shaft seems a little long though. Its almost bottomed out in the slip joint, about a 1/2 in away. If thats what everyone elses is like then Im fine with it, but I would like to know. 1/2" is just about perfect. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77turboz Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 1/2" is just about perfect. Mike thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.