NZeder Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 and for some more clearance you could machine off the willwood of the front of the caliper - I have seen this done before - not sure how much more you can take off but that will give you 1mm more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondersparrow Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Funny, I did almost exactly the same thing on my track car. AZC 6 pot front and 4 pot rear kit. I had virtually no runout on mine though. I was fully expecting to have to machine them, but it wasn't needed. The Baer spacers did not fit my 240 hubs. They swore they would, but i needed to open up the center by nearly 6mm (dia). I just used a flapper on my drill press and did it myself. Much cheaper way to do things. I needed 1/2" spacers on the front to clear my 15" euro mesh wheels; and 1/8" spacers on the rear. The arp studs are awesome. I like that I can torque all the nuts before each event as opposed to using those bolt-on adapters that hide a set of nuts under the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Okay I finally got everything finished up a couple weekends ago. Heres what I did for shimming: I decided to shim the rotor since this to me was easier to do. I bought several different sizes of stainless steel shims from Mcmaster (.001,.002,.004,and .005). I then cut them down a bit so they didnt stick out from the hat. I then set up my dial indicator as close as I could to the hat. I found the place with the least run out and marked it as 0, then as I spun it I wrote the runout at each bolt. I then installed all the shims at once. It was really close on the first try and with a couple adjustments I got the rotor to about .0015in of runout. My measuring setup wasnt any more accurate then that so I was pretty happy. I ended up buying the Bear 1/4" wheel spacers. I had to have the center of the front turned out a bit to clear the hubs. I also went through my rear suspension "while I was at it" and put in long ARP studs in the back as well. I also replaced the hex head caliper mount bracket bolts with socket head ones....so they actually can be tightened and torqued properly. Anyway the brakes are very smooth. Im still working out a few kinks though...my Drivers front is locking up way before my passengers front. Im hoping this is just a bleeding issue as I bleed them real quick to make it to auofair. Next time I am home Ill rebleed thoroughly and then see how she does. hopefully then I can bed the pads in and see how these baby's are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Wait until you get them debugged, bedded, and at operating temp! Looking good. Don't forget to test your bias before you need to make an emergency stop. There is nothing scarier than the rear wheels locking first when you are heading towards impending doom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shika805 Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 that break clearance is nice and fit! looking good man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I was wondering about your wheel studs. You used the ARP PN-100-7719. The knurl Dia is .507". How did that fit? I measured the stock studs and got a knurl Dia of .509" I was considering using ARP-100-7708 with the exact knurl dia. of .509" Besides they are cheap in the ARP lineup. The knurl length is shorter by a little on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.