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I'm new here wanted to ask a couple questions.


Pomorza

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Hello all

I bought a 1976 Datun 280z about three weeks ago. So far I've changed the oil, radiator fluid and hose, and changed the 5 speeds' gear oil with some Redline MT-90.

 

First off I'm wanting to get a trans, oil and differential temp gauges and place it where my radio should be (that's right, no radio). Has anyone put any of these on their respectable Z? Is it a hard process? Does it involve a lot of drilling and such?

 

Secondly my z gets a very annoying top end tick whenever I've been driving it a while. (in stop and go traffic). I have had the valves adjusted but the noise came back. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? The car did sit for 8 months before I bought it, could that have anything to do with it. The noise does go away and come back at random intervals if that makes any difference.

 

Thanks all

Jan

 

P.S

Pardon the error, I posted this in the wrong section. I apologize.

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Gauges aren't hard to install, though installing the temp senders would be a pain. Why do you want trans/diff temp gauges? Generally reserved for race cars, no something that has much use on the street at all. Same could be said for the oil temp gauge on the street...

 

Top end tick is almost certainly valve adjustment, I hate to say. Was it done by someone that knew what they were doing on these engines?

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I'm one of those people that enjoys knowing exactly what is happening on important components on my car. I was planning on getting this car set up as a street/race type of car. I'm not exactly sure. Not really into getting a radio as the sound of the car is music to my ears (if you know what I mean).

 

Any ideas what to do with the large open space where the radio once was?

 

Jan

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Once you replace the stock oil pressure and water temp gauges with decent full sweep ones, you'll need a place for a fuel gauge and amp/volt gauge (if desired)...

 

Yeah, I have my Fuel level, voltage and O2 (NB ugh) gauges where the radio should be.

 

I will be moving the gauges so I can once again have a radio, since I find on long drives at constant speed, the symphony of Intake and Exhaust, with special guest Turbocharger, just gets a little mundane. LOL

 

I just have to find a place or better way to have those gauges elsewhere, that doesn't put gauges all over the place and look bad.

 

Right now I'm rocking an iPod, with some cheap amplified computer speakers running off my inverter. LOL

 

To install the temp probes for the tanny and diff, you will need to drill holes in the case/cover at low points to be submersed in the fluids. You might be able to get away with using the diff drain plug location. The trans drain is on the very bottom of the tranny though, and on mine is a rather large plug that would be difficult to adapt, or take some work anyway, and then I would be worried about damaging the sender and possibly puking all the fluid out of the trans while driving, since it would be literally one of the lowest parts of the car. You may find that the trans will require a bung welded to a low spot on the side of the case to keep the sender high or level but submerged in the trans fluid.

 

Drax240z; I see a LOT of new Chevrolet trucks with trans temp gauges in the OEM cluster, including Avalanches and Even the Escalade that you know will never be used for towing. ;)

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I like that! Anymore of those lying around anodized in black!

 

That be a no. Only one was ever made and it was an amazing amount of work - cutting, hammering, welding, hammering, grinding, hammering, sanding, and polishing. If I made another one it would be about $800.

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Gauges aren't hard to install, though installing the temp senders would be a pain. Why do you want trans/diff temp gauges? Generally reserved for race cars, no something that has much use on the street at all. Same could be said for the oil temp gauge on the street...

 

Top end tick is almost certainly valve adjustment, I hate to say. Was it done by someone that knew what they were doing on these engines?

 

So I took the Z out tonight for a ride, short really maybe two three miles. At the end of the run, oh say 1/4 a mile the ticking returned. It lasted up til I stopped the car in my driveway.

 

Wondering three things.

1. I found that my car has a minor leak in one of the rubber lines going to the tank. Could lack of fuel cause this ticking?

2. The exhaust on my car is...to be dead honest probably the one that came from the factory in 76. Is has rust from all the way back from the manifold. (the manifold does look good though, will inspect more this weekend). Could an exhaust leak cause ticking.

3. I took my car to the local mechanic that I've taken all my cars to. He said they did the adjustment to specs and put on a new gasket. A valve adjustment isn't rocket science is it?

 

Jan

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1) In a round about way, yes. But you'd have to be beating the snot out of it with poor fuel delivery to blow something to the point of a "ticking".

2) Try to pinpoint whether you hear the ticking louder on the exhaust side or not. Yes, a small exhaust leak can make noise similar. This could get louder as metal heats up and expands.

3) Not rocket science, and it is unlikely to come and go. Probably not the case.

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I'm not really positive where its coming from, I'll try to get it to happen and see where the noise comes from.

 

Secondly. The noise comes and goes. What I mean is this. Last Saturday I was taking it for a ride up to the local store. On the way there it started about 20 minutes into the ride. Stopped about two three minutes later and then started back up a few minutes after that. It continues to do this along the way to the store. On the way back, nothing, no noise at all. It's really frustrating.

 

Jan

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Sounds like what most people are saying, valve adjustment. Honestly, the first thing I thought was exhaust leak (I have had several cars with exhaust leaks that sounded like lifter noise) so if the exhaust is all rusty like you claim, replacing it couldn't hurt anyway.

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I'm going to take a look (and take pictures so y'all can see) of my entire exhaust this weekend. What confuses me is this. Would lifter noise be constant once the engine heated up, not coming and going and coming and going?

 

Jan

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Injectors.

 

They sound like a gang of maracas sometimes. If you want to be certain, grab a largish screwdriver, and rest the butt of the handle against your ear. Gently set the tip of the screwdriver (flathead works best) against the base of the injector with the engine idling and suddenly the sound of the injector WILL become greatly amplified... and you will know for certain if it is the loud ticking you are hearing or not. You ARE able to hear it with your head under the hood sometimes, right? This isn't a road-only condition?

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OK a bit of an update for you guys.

First off my brake master cylinder was leaking horribly. Bought a new PRB one and had my mechanic install it. Secondly, found out that my fuel leak is actually more of a cracked tank. The little nipple that the hose is attached to is cracked and the tank is in need of some welding.

 

Thirdly. Did finally get a chance to hear that blasted ticking with the hood up. It is most definitely coming from the injector side of the engine. Not sure if it's the injectors themselves being loud but its from that side for sure. I walked across to the other side and place my head very close to the valve cover. All I hear from in there is the wonderful sound of a cam rolling and opening valves. No ticking, tacking or anything else. Walked back to the other side and long and behold...TICK TICK:twisted:...

 

I'm very new to Z's so I'm not exactly sure if LOUD injectors are normal. But to put it simple I can hear them when I first start moving and even under heavy acceleration the noise will come through. (but faintly.) What can cause them to be so loud? I'm running FI cleaner in the tank at the moment to see if this helps. Any ideas?

 

 

To answer some questions from above.

1. This condition is not road only. I've heard it under my hood before but this was the first time it was loud.

2. The exhaust system, while fairly rusty and covered in welded on mud (I had to scrape it with a screwdriver to get it off) it doesn't seem to have any leaks that I can see.

3. Did take a look at the manifold while trimming the front bumper this past Saturday. I didn't see any cracks or visible damage. Will take anther look Sunday.

4. Promised pictures of rusty exhaust will be posted Sunday. I forgot the blasted camera.

 

Thanks all

Jan

 

P.S

A bit off topic but when the turn signals are on (or lights in that sense) I can hear the fuel pump pumping stronger and weaker with the turn signal. Electrical problem?

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One tip man and this what our head mechanic does for funny things such as yours, is he drives the car for a little while and hears it for himself. Most mechanic also dont like admitting they made a mistake(that goes for anybody really) so let them drive and see what hey think it is. If they can hear it they can most likely pin point the problem.

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the injector noise can be quite loud. It good news for you if thats the issue - injectors are a nothing part these days.

the screwdriver trick is good advice... when you think you've isolated it try diconnnecting the connector to the suspect injector. if the sound goes away, thats your culprit.

 

-pete

 

*edit* i wouldn't bother with FI cleaner, just get a new injector... i've got tonnes lying round, many people do so just put up a post on wanted etc.

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